ABS warning light and TCS warning light are on at the same time!
#1
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ABS warning light and TCS warning light are on at the same time!
OK, before anybody tell me to use the search function, I have try and it does not help at all. The most important thing are the two ABS and TCS and search for this I will get no match found. anything else will give me lots of result which i don't think i can read them all.
Anyhow, This is what i get on the dash and it will not go away. I am at work and don't know if this lights are serious enough for me to drive home and take it to the dealer tomorrow. If anyone know, please let me know.
Thanks
Anyhow, This is what i get on the dash and it will not go away. I am at work and don't know if this lights are serious enough for me to drive home and take it to the dealer tomorrow. If anyone know, please let me know.
Thanks
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#6
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#7
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I drove home with both light on and guess what! I don't think it just the warning light. The car felt more respondsive to the gas padle. It felt as though the ABS and the DSC is really off and that I am on my own if I am to lose control of my car. So if what you say is the stop fuse, then the computer turn off ABS and DSC because the stop light isn't working? I will find out as soon as I change the fuse.
#9
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Its all turn out to be an LED light bulb that I've change. I been having left and right brake lights plus backup light running LED bulb just fine. So I thought mind as well replace the stop light bulb in the middle. Order the bulb, replace the bulb and that is when the ABS/DSC warning light appear. At first, I thought it was the car wash guy shorting out the electrical. Check all fuses(help from 305wankel to lacate fuses)and none is blown. Back track and finally conclude that is the bulb that cause the ABS/DSC to completely turn off.
#12
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Its all turn out to be an LED light bulb that I've change. I been having left and right brake lights plus backup light running LED bulb just fine. So I thought mind as well replace the stop light bulb in the middle. Order the bulb, replace the bulb and that is when the ABS/DSC warning light appear. At first, I thought it was the car wash guy shorting out the electrical. Check all fuses(help from 305wankel to lacate fuses)and none is blown. Back track and finally conclude that is the bulb that cause the ABS/DSC to completely turn off.
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#15
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Wow........excuse me. I didn't see the post that said it was confirmed to be the bulb that caused it. I still don't see that post except where you quoted it. Was or is it in this thread somewhere? Now I'm just perplexed.
It must have been deleted just after you posted and before I saw your response???
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#16
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I just had this same EXACT problem last weekend when I switched all my exterior bulbs to LED. I don't have the small 3rd brakelight any more either (a camera is in it's place) but I do have that 3rd brakelight circuit wired in to light my huge LED strip on the Pontiac GTO rear wing...that never caused any problems though...but apparently switching the other brake lights did. I have 2 of 4 resistors installed on the turn signals (still blinking fast) and I will finish that today (fronts are a pain). But I am not planning to put resistors or swap back to light bulbs for the brakelights at this time....I like it now not having to turn off DSC everytime I get in the car! That is if you can deal with all the yellow lights! CEL is on (no cat), TPMS blinks, ABS, and TCS!!!
-C
-C
#17
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To add, I realized my cruise control also does not work with the lights on... you can set the cruise speed, and then pop the driving lights on and the cruise disengages...
the LED brake lights have to be the cause... I will add resistors and see what happens...
-C
the LED brake lights have to be the cause... I will add resistors and see what happens...
-C
#18
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I just had this same EXACT problem last weekend when I switched all my exterior bulbs to LED. I don't have the small 3rd brakelight any more either (a camera is in it's place) but I do have that 3rd brakelight circuit wired in to light my huge LED strip on the Pontiac GTO rear wing...that never caused any problems though...but apparently switching the other brake lights did. I have 2 of 4 resistors installed on the turn signals (still blinking fast) and I will finish that today (fronts are a pain). But I am not planning to put resistors or swap back to light bulbs for the brakelights at this time....I like it now not having to turn off DSC everytime I get in the car! That is if you can deal with all the yellow lights! CEL is on (no cat), TPMS blinks, ABS, and TCS!!!
-C
-C
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#20
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Just to stay current with the other similar thread I will duplicate my post:
Well, finally got around to putting the LEDs back in along with installing the resistors (on the brake light circuit, not the tail light circuit), and as expected there are no problems now... except these cheesy resistors from autozone are just ceramic ones without the aluminium heatsinks and these thinks get way too hot.... the funny thing was they were drawing current when I first put them in, I had put an old 13B rotor housing on the brake pedal to hold it down, and checked the lights...then when I let go the brakes, they still stayed hot, and never cooled off...I shoulda measured the current... but anyways, as soon as I started the car, they stopped exhibiting this behavior, and have been fine since, without TCS, DSC or ABS, or cruise issues.... BUT, tonight I checked one of the resistors, and it was cool, the other hot, so I think there is a bad connection or it broke internally....interestingly, there are still no codes thrown with just the one resistor working...
Bottom line, if you use the LEDs in the tail/brake position, use resistors on the brake circuit....or do like I am going to do, and just wire in the original bulbs someplace hidden, as they seem to be easier to hide and keep away from things that melt....the cheap resistors are a pain and they have very short leads....so bye bye 12 bucks...
-C
Well, finally got around to putting the LEDs back in along with installing the resistors (on the brake light circuit, not the tail light circuit), and as expected there are no problems now... except these cheesy resistors from autozone are just ceramic ones without the aluminium heatsinks and these thinks get way too hot.... the funny thing was they were drawing current when I first put them in, I had put an old 13B rotor housing on the brake pedal to hold it down, and checked the lights...then when I let go the brakes, they still stayed hot, and never cooled off...I shoulda measured the current... but anyways, as soon as I started the car, they stopped exhibiting this behavior, and have been fine since, without TCS, DSC or ABS, or cruise issues.... BUT, tonight I checked one of the resistors, and it was cool, the other hot, so I think there is a bad connection or it broke internally....interestingly, there are still no codes thrown with just the one resistor working...
Bottom line, if you use the LEDs in the tail/brake position, use resistors on the brake circuit....or do like I am going to do, and just wire in the original bulbs someplace hidden, as they seem to be easier to hide and keep away from things that melt....the cheap resistors are a pain and they have very short leads....so bye bye 12 bucks...
-C
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#22
The same thing just happened to my 2005 Sport. I installed one red LED into the Left Brake Light to check the color, with no detrimental effects. But when I installed the other two LED Brake Lights (the right one and the center one), I got the odd symptom described above.
The symptom is two yellow dash lights illuminate, the ABS light and the Traction Control light (not the DSC OFF light). The odd part is the computer showed no codes...I was stumped. On a whim after reading this thread, I removed all three LEDs, replacing them with the original incandescents, and walla...the dash lights were gone.
The interesting thing about having the ABS and the traction control light ON, was how connected I felt to the road. It seemed a different feeling than when DSC is disabled via the DSC OFF switch. Also gone was this unexplained brake pedal drop (1/2 inch) on hard braking I have always had, which seemed to go away too. It is not the ABS kicking in, because if anything the ABS system raises the pedal. Now I am going to see how to recreate that condition (likely by pulling fuses) to determine if there really is a difference.
Once again thanks to the treasure trove of knowledge here on RX8Club.com, I was able to solve my problem. Cheers!
The symptom is two yellow dash lights illuminate, the ABS light and the Traction Control light (not the DSC OFF light). The odd part is the computer showed no codes...I was stumped. On a whim after reading this thread, I removed all three LEDs, replacing them with the original incandescents, and walla...the dash lights were gone.
The interesting thing about having the ABS and the traction control light ON, was how connected I felt to the road. It seemed a different feeling than when DSC is disabled via the DSC OFF switch. Also gone was this unexplained brake pedal drop (1/2 inch) on hard braking I have always had, which seemed to go away too. It is not the ABS kicking in, because if anything the ABS system raises the pedal. Now I am going to see how to recreate that condition (likely by pulling fuses) to determine if there really is a difference.
Once again thanks to the treasure trove of knowledge here on RX8Club.com, I was able to solve my problem. Cheers!
#23
not sure asking question in this nearly 10 years old treats helps. Correct me if i'm wrong. So if I wanted to installed all brake and indicators bulbs into LED, I need 4 resistor so that the warning lights wont turn on?
#24
i think 1 resistor will be enough, perhaps for the middle brake light as it will be the easiest to get to
You should get a large resistor that is enough to handle the current flow.
You should get a large resistor that is enough to handle the current flow.
#25
Never fitted a resistor before fo I put it on both wires or just one?
Any help would be much appreciated