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that’s why I recommended anti-seize and flanged nuts rather than locking nuts in the previous thread
which this should have been posted in that thread rather than starting a new one, but that’s what noobs do ... sigh
the manifold has to be taken off, new holes drilled, and retapped with new threads to fix it correctly.
probably easier to find another manifold though
or just weld a cover plate on or a plug in the hole; would still need to pull the exhaust manifold off.
The likelihood of the hole being the right size for a threading tap seems a bit of hope & wish. Which if not, then would require drilling it out. Kind of doubt it could happen, but maybe a right-angle drill, a short bit, and all the stars aligning correctly is possible. Think I’d just pull it off instead.
I do have an OE manifold in my shop though. Not sure if I’ll ever need it for anything again.
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And to add insult to injury, you have to remove the engine in order to remove the lower intake manifold. There is not enough clearance to do so in the car.
No it doesn't... the part in discussion isn't even part of the lower intake manifold. I absolutely replied to the wrong thread. I have no clue how I did that but thank you for pointing it out.
Update: Got it all fixed. I jerry rigged a drill bit extension and tapped a new hole. I was able to weld a nut onto the far stud and using my impact driver slowly back it out. The near stud just sheared further into it. Stock is M6 thread, I tapped an M7x1 and it threaded right in. Car is finally back on the road. I;m not sure it was worth the 5 hours of fiddling or if I should have just removed the manifold, but I did NOT want to risk breaking more rusted parts...
Team, you're right I should have continued that other thread.
They obviously didn’t spend too much time thinking of how much of a pain in the *** these two studs would be if needed to be removed. I had to drill and tap one of mine after I pulled the engine for a new one.
Late to the party.
For future reference, I started using left handed drills many years ago when I was a mechanic.
They work wonders.
The combination of hollowing the broken bolt while generating heat would often result in the bolt backing out with the drill.
carbon/salt corrosion and 1600*F exhaust temperature exposure makes that less likely as does trying to center a drill bit on an M6 size stud in an awkwardly confined and limited access space.
if the manifold was removed first where it could be more easily accessed and accurately positioned then I might agree.
I was impressed that he managed it as such. Sometimes raw determination and will power is enough.
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In hindsight I may not have removed the air pump at all lol. Just trying to free up space in the engine bay and lose some weight in the process. I have a heavy battery (Odyssey) so trying to offset weight until I relocate to trunk
12-13-2020, 02:40 PM
