Alternative to the 400 dollar starter upgrade.
#27
Forgot to mention, Stock reman starter seems expensive, but consider the fact that Factory starter almost always means Everything is replaced except for the shell ~~~ and when u look out there, a Quality starter always cost more than 200 bucks ----
#29
#30
I ran the part # to the guy at Advance Auto and was told it's special order and it $330 with a $50 core. I then called Autozone expecting the same result. Not the case.....$99.00 and $35 core special order. Yes there is no mistake. It comes up as part # 19473 for Autozones part which is a Bosch # SR4238X. Thanks for the help guys. Now my 2004 will have a 07 S2 starter!
#32
Series II manual starter (not available in the aftermarket despite what the stores and manufacturers list) or nothing. It's the best $400.00 I have spent on the RX-8 to date.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-02-2014 at 10:36 AM.
#33
Well a series 2 is a redesign of the starter they had problems with since the first one. The 04 starter has 11 teeth and is a 1.4 kw where as the new one I purchased has 13 and also is a 2 kw.
Last edited by Eightenuff; 07-03-2014 at 07:44 AM. Reason: Add to it
#36
Series II as in 2009-2011 RX-8 starter. It is different from both versions of the series I (2004-2008) 1.4KW and 2KW starter. RE: what Team said.
#38
is the auto zone 2KW version better than stock for a 2006 MT? I don't quite have the money for a rebuild yet but my engine has lost some hot start ability and id like to "put a band-aid on a bullet hole" ,so to speak. will the auto zone 2kw starter hereDuralast/Starter 19473 at AutoZone.com actually be faster cranking than my factory starter? from what I can find the factory starter for the 06 WAS a 2KW.
#42
I thought the same thing until I bought and installed a new OE S2 starter from Mazda for my S1. Gotta luv 400 rpm cranking speeds with a good battery. . The options may have been more limited then, but I also got it near wholesale through the Motorsports racer discount program
#43
I just replaced my original 2004 starter with the Mitsubishi one off Amazon. I was having issues with the starter being slow, way slower than when it was new, and taking 2-3 seconds to hit. With the new starter it is half a second or less and I'm off and running, hot, cold, doesn't matter.
It is 14 teeth and slightly longer than the stock unit. Sounds completely different as well and is quieter.
It is 14 teeth and slightly longer than the stock unit. Sounds completely different as well and is quieter.
#44
I am not sure which Mitsubishi one you are referring to but it could be a weak battery and if the starter you have is re manufactured failures do happen. If it is the 2009+ manual starter then you should see the difference as it is at least 50RPM faster than any 2003-2008 starter if everything is working as it should be. I use a pretty small battery (Odyssey PC925) and mine fires right up with barely a bump of the key.
#45
I am not sure which Mitsubishi one you are referring to but it could be a weak battery and if the starter you have is re manufactured failures do happen. If it is the 2009+ manual starter then you should see the difference as it is at least 50RPM faster than any 2003-2008 starter if everything is working as it should be. I use a pretty small battery (Odyssey PC925) and mine fires right up with barely a bump of the key.
Definitely not a weak battery. It was one of the original design starters, and potentially wasn't turning over even as fast as it once did.
#46
Thanks guys for the info, i'll just order the Mitsubishi N3R3 one too. 14 teeth FTW!
Gonna take like half a month to ship it here tho from US.
Hope it's worth it. mazda dealers here got no stock and they do overcharge around $700? for N3Z1s.
Thanks for the information guys. Appreciate it.
Gonna take like half a month to ship it here tho from US.
Hope it's worth it. mazda dealers here got no stock and they do overcharge around $700? for N3Z1s.
Thanks for the information guys. Appreciate it.
#47
Help!!
Okay so here's the breakdown
Had an engine light check P2259 and P2070
But then my ac compressor clutch locked so I had new compressor installed and then after that my engine would turn on and then cut off. So I did more research and I cleaned up my secondary shutter valve now I put it all back together and and when I went to turn it on it sounded like my engine is flooded. Went through the whole process and now it turns on revs really high then turns off but when it's on for like 3 seconds it makes a high squeaky sound super high. I lost so much hope I need help to fix it !! This is the only way I can post it on here. I don't know if I need t replace the shutter valve and the AIR valve but they are so expensive I just need to be told what to do from people who actually have messed with an Rx8
Btw it's a 2004 Mazda Rx8 automatic :/
But foreal need help!
Had an engine light check P2259 and P2070
But then my ac compressor clutch locked so I had new compressor installed and then after that my engine would turn on and then cut off. So I did more research and I cleaned up my secondary shutter valve now I put it all back together and and when I went to turn it on it sounded like my engine is flooded. Went through the whole process and now it turns on revs really high then turns off but when it's on for like 3 seconds it makes a high squeaky sound super high. I lost so much hope I need help to fix it !! This is the only way I can post it on here. I don't know if I need t replace the shutter valve and the AIR valve but they are so expensive I just need to be told what to do from people who actually have messed with an Rx8
Btw it's a 2004 Mazda Rx8 automatic :/
But foreal need help!
#49
Okay so here's the breakdown
Had an engine light check P2259 and P2070
But then my ac compressor clutch locked so I had new compressor installed and then after that my engine would turn on and then cut off. So I did more research and I cleaned up my secondary shutter valve now I put it all back together and and when I went to turn it on it sounded like my engine is flooded. Went through the whole process and now it turns on revs really high then turns off but when it's on for like 3 seconds it makes a high squeaky sound super high. I lost so much hope I need help to fix it !! This is the only way I can post it on here. I don't know if I need t replace the shutter valve and the AIR valve but they are so expensive I just need to be told what to do from people who actually have messed with an Rx8
Btw it's a 2004 Mazda Rx8 automatic :/
But foreal need help!
Had an engine light check P2259 and P2070
But then my ac compressor clutch locked so I had new compressor installed and then after that my engine would turn on and then cut off. So I did more research and I cleaned up my secondary shutter valve now I put it all back together and and when I went to turn it on it sounded like my engine is flooded. Went through the whole process and now it turns on revs really high then turns off but when it's on for like 3 seconds it makes a high squeaky sound super high. I lost so much hope I need help to fix it !! This is the only way I can post it on here. I don't know if I need t replace the shutter valve and the AIR valve but they are so expensive I just need to be told what to do from people who actually have messed with an Rx8
Btw it's a 2004 Mazda Rx8 automatic :/
But foreal need help!
those two codes wont be the cause of any stalling issues but should be addressed nevertheless .
The problems after AC installed .... could be ess sensor related as that is in that general area ...check it and clean it .
The squeaky high pitched sound could be the air pump
other than that ... it kinda sounds like you have several problems to deal with and that your engine is pretty choked up and in need of tlc . Take a methodical approach and you will get there eventually .
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