I'd like to bleed my clutch as I'm doing some maintenance, it doesn't seem easy to get to if the car is not on a lift, not sure if I can get under there with jack stands. Anyone done this themselves?

 

I put a speedbleeder on mine...and you can reach it from the top

 

I looked at the manuel and I couldn't tell if it was near the brake cylinder or not, it looked to be near the tranny, but there was also a pic up there as well.

Do you use the fluid into a container full of fluid method to look for bubbles?

 

It's up behind the oil filter Not the easiest place, but it could be worse I guess.

I just pump about 10 pumps of fluid theough the speedbleeder and close it. I do this when io change fluid...and it will clear the line of old fluid and any air. You have to pull the pedal up and down though.....

 

Can someone tell me which speedbleeder fits the clutch line and the master cylinder?

 

SB7100

Metric thread, 7mm x 1.0

S

 

The clutch and brakes use the same resivour, so why can't you just ust the brake slave cylinder?

I know it's not the best but you could.

 

I had to get at it from the top. Just follow the clutch cable from the res, and the bleeder is right there at the end. Also if you can't get a tube on the bleed screw just tape plastic over where the starter is, and a put pan underneith and it won't make to big of a mess.

 

would 1 L be enough for bleeding the clutch, brake, & master?

 

Yes 1 liter would be enough to bleed the entire system.

The clutch bleeder is behind the oil filter.

There are a few ways to bleed the clutch cylinder.

First is very time consuming and takes two people: the conventional poor mans method (how I used to help my Dad bleed the brakes...):
Have someone press on the clutch (or brake respectively) and another loosens the bleeder tightening it when the clutch is at the floor.

Repeating till there aren't any air bubbles coming out.

Another is the Speedbleeders (they are available at Pepboys)

Another is a vacuum bleeder (also an oil extractor): http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...pid=1024&cid=8



Speed Bleeders



We get a 10% discount if we ask for it and mention RX8club.com when ordering.

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

Stainless bleeders are here: http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/category/stainlesssteel/

2 speed Bleeders for front calipers RX-8 SB8100 7mm x 1.0 - 34mmL
2 speed bleeders for rear calipers RX-8 SB1010 10mm x 1.0 - 34mmL
2 speed Bleeder clutch RX-8 /master cylinder SB7100 8mm x 1.0 - 34mmL


It only took me 1 liter of brake fluid to flush the system.

I flushed the clutch first then the Master Cylinder

Next I flushed the rear passenger brakes

Rear driver's brakes

Passenger's front

Driver's front then the clutch and last the Master Cylinder.

I have to say that the Speedbleeders are well worth the money for the ease of bleeding the brakes with only one person. Cool

Oh and the bleeder bag that is $6 makes the job drip free!



This is very important because brake fluid eats paint!

When I pulled the hose off the bleeder nipple I first squeezed it with a needle nose pliers. This prevented the fluid from draining when pulling it off. The same concept as capping a straw and pulling it out of your drink nothing comes out

 

I bled the clutch master cylinder from the top also.

 

I think the reason is there could be air in the line between the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder.

If you bleed from the brake master cylinder you are bleeding the air between the brake master cylinder and the reservoir.

 

Can't seem to propery bleed the clutch properly- arrrhh !

I'm using the method of one on the pedal & me undoing the bleed screw with a hose running to the ground & I keep getting air in the system .
How do you get the pedal up without sucking air into the master cylinder ? I think this is my problem .

 

Speedbleeders my friend, you must get a speedbleeder screw. If you don't have one, pretty much definitely a 2 person job.

 

Just adjusted the pedal height & the clutch is disenguaging OK again but before I tried to bleed it it was borderline ok also . So ,I think there is still air in there, not sure .

I have HD clucth which seems to require more pedal travel than stock so this is making the problem worse.

Edit
OK - I figured it out . When you bleed the clutch , if you try and start the car right away the clutch does not go full travel . You actually need to work it a few times before it comes back to normal operation .

Thats what I have found after a few frustrating hours and before anyone says I still have air in the line - I don't think that's it . I think its just that the slave cylinder takes a few pumps to completely replenish the system . Probably to do with the fact that it has to suck fluid away from the brake reservoir.

 

Before the person in the car lifts the pedal up do you tighten the bleeder screw?

Speedbleeder is the easiest way and keep in mind to press it slowly and it is not necessary to go all the way to the floor.

 

Yes
See my last post

 

when the my car is cold the clutch pedal feels and works fine. when the car is hot my clutch pedal drops to the floor and is useless. could this have something to do with me not bleeding the brakes right? i did what is said above to bleed the breaks. am i missing something?

 

Sounds like your slave cylinder is taking a **** on you. Mine did, I learned to drive almost 3 miles in traffic without a clutch because of it. I changed it along with the master cylinder and upgraded to the AP SS clutch line.

Feels alot smoother with a SS clutch line. The proper way to bleed would be to bleed the top fitting on the clutch line near the UIM first, then finish bleeding at the slave cylinder bleeder valve.

If you bleed at the slave alone, expect to be there a while trying to get all the air out of the system.

 

was it tough to replace the slave cylinder? did you have to drop the tranny out of the bottom of the car? or should i just take it in?

 

You do not have to drop the trans. You can either remove the UIM to get the slave from on top or from underneath you can easily access it on the left upper side of the trans if you have slim hands.

Its only two 12mm bolts and the hardline going to it and it comes off easy. Just make sure to bleed the whole system thoroughly when replacing. Also its advised to change the clutch line as well any air in the system and it will burst.

 

where did you find the slave cylinder and the line? i need this thing to be done by wednesday. i think I'm bleeding it right and I've done it about 20 times and nothing is working. did you have the same problem i did? the clutch gradually stops working as the car heats up

 

You mean to buy replacements? I bought Centric slave and master cylinder from Rockauto.com. Been over a year with no hydraulic/clutch related problems. I'd recommend them if you don't mind aftermarket. As for the SS clutch line I ordered it from THmotorsports.

My slave cylinder actually went out on me while I was driving somewhere and had to make the trip back home without the clutch lol so it wasn't as gradual, more abrupt.

 

Your clutch master cylinder is air locked. I had the same problem not to long ago. You need to prime the line between the clutch master cylinder and the brake master cylinder. Then unhook the line going to the slave cylinder at the clutch master cylinder and begin to bleed. When you get fluid hook it back up then you can bleed the slave cylinder. Long process but worked for me.

 

Thanks for the info. I tried as suggested this morning about 100 times and still no luck and no noticeable improvement. I think I am at the point now that I should take it to my mechanic and have him to a proper pressure bleed to rule out once and for all air in the system.