Do some research, Mazdatrix is one of the most reputable vendors in the community and have made strides in R&D for our and other rotary vehicles. They must have been to busy with that that they didn't make a website that lives up to your expectations.

Maybe ebay is more of your style

 

1. it's just oil
2. you paid too much, but then that sucker marketing scheme isn't cheap

next time go buy Mobil1 0W40 at Walmart instead ....

 

I still have 5 qts of 0w40 mobil1 left in my garage, gonna do the change tomorrow morning.

BITE ME ANTI-SYNTHETIC BITCHES!

 

Mobile 0W40 Walmart $23 is all you need, Ill be doing one in the next week.

It is also the only oil proven to yield results

 

I just use two stroke in the fuel and the crankcase. I never change it, I just add to it. WIN!

 

What? You add 2 stroke to your engine oil? I'm not too sure if thats common.

 

TROLLED haha

 

ROFL hold the phone, did that guy just say he's boycotting Mazdatrix because they don’t have a flashy website, AHAHA Internet rice lol Mazdatrix is the best of the best, but if you want to cut yourself off from some serious guys in the rx8 game because of a non flashy website that’s your call LOL

 

Mazdatrix may not have the best looks for a website but they do have the best info.

You would know this if you would just read.

Take a look at what they think of oils in a rotary. Dont judge a book (website) by its cover.
Using Synthetic Oils in Rotary Engines

This is racing beats view on oils.
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html

Basically synthetic oil will improve HP. It does have better lubricating properties. But since it doesn't burn clean, It reduces the longevity and reliability of it. By how much? No one knows. There are to many variables to take into consideration.

That is why you wont get a yes or no to the question. You will gain hp, to losing longevity. By how much? Thats for you to find out.

 

Idemitsu is NOT the only oil that burns clean. in fact, lots of synthetic oil burns clean enough.

Are they trying to tell me those Autozone oil for 1.99 bux a quart burns clean ? they are not synthetic, right? do those crying babies have the ***** to use those? nope.

not to mention, the source of the problem (deposit) came from the GAS YOU PUMPED IN, NOT ENGINE OIL!

and Idemitsu is NOT the only "Rotary Engine oil", there are so many in Japan, and it's not that expensive. and they are blend by different refinery located in Japan. Nutec is one of them.

if you do know rotary engines (and it's related info) well enough, you will noticed a lot of info on the site is either (proven) wrong, or just outdated.

 

I wasn't trying to start a debate on how its good or bad. Just pointing out what the debate is about. And how information can be found in the ugliest places.

Me personally, I'm going to use a quality non-synthetic oils. There is just not enough testing to say yes use synthetic of any kind.

Testing oils on an engine or 2 is just not enough. Mazda has tested the recommended oil on thousands and thousands of rotary engines. Ill stick with what has been proven to work.

Right now for synthetics, Its a, it worked for me, should work for you too type of deal. There is nothing that has a proven fact that any kind of synthetics will not harm the rotary engine. Some may burn cleaner then others, but nothing like the recommended oil.

In order for me to switch, I would want to see at least 1000 rotaries go through testing with a break down of the engine. Show real proof and not just a bearing test.

 

This is false, synthetic oils have been tested. Their is an entire thread on this very forum even, with multiple test reports that prove synthetic oils to be far superior than conventual.

It should also be noted that the majority of the dealers out their do not offer conventional oil only. They all use a blend. So wether you want to or not if you get your oil changed at the dealer your actually running a synthetic blend.

You should also look at any rotary service manual for a non US vehicle under the oil recommendation. I'll give you a hint, its not the same.

 

Now is this on only rotaries? We all know synthetic is way better. But is it actually better in the burning aspect? When you say multiple test reports, is that 5-10 engines with a break down? Were they tested in the same conditions, Daily driven to racing conditions? N/A, Turbo, N2O, Supercharged?
You should post that thread to enlighten this one.

From a full synthetic to a blend, there is a big deference on how it would burn. Funny how you say the dealer uses a blend when the dealer has a higher engine fail then the people that do it them selfs. Could be a clue. IDK just a thought.

What oil do they use thats not in the us (mazda recommends)? I would like to look at the properties of that oil compared to what we have in the us. And what is the fail rate for the non US vehicles?

I would need a lot more info to make an educated decision to switch to synthetic. It all comes down to how it burns. If there is a synthetic that burns like conventional, we all should be using it as that is the only down fall.

 

1. I envy the USA for the cheap 0W40 M1 in walmart...I cry to see price differences...
2. Synthetic has been proven in many applications for rotary specific. Regardless of side port or peripheral port, the properties of the engine are relatively similar..seals..rotars etc.
Any FI rotary have been using synthetic only without any issue. Once again Mazda JAPAN recommends 0W30 synthetic over the N.A. Mazda 5W20 conventional. Yes this is on their WEBSITE.
Everyone will have different driving conditions for testing their oil (in this case 0w40 M1), and in the multiple scenarios it has proven to reduce internal engine deterioration specifically with the rx8. Take a look at the oil test results on the above link to the thread. Learn, read and make the right decision to go synthetic.

On a separate note, I've been told to make the switch before 100,000km (60,000mi) otherwise the engine will have some issues due to conventional oil deterioration and synthetic cleaning it... not sure if this is true. I switched at 84,000km roughly and have only good things to say about synthetic. At 101,000km now and it runs so nicely.

If anything, find an oil with highest API ratings possible and make the switch (conventional or synthetic)!

 

jayrerickson has a point. Synthetic oil is definitely better in the lubrication aspect, but does anyone know for sure that it burns correctly for rotaries? Some say yes, some say no. It's all a matter of opinion at this point. You can either take a chance with the synthetic and likely have no problems (if it's a quality synthetic) or possibly have problems. Or you can take a chance with a quality conventionional and equally as likely have no problems, or possibly have problems. Is the chance of problems less with synthetic? I feel like it probably is...but he's right. No one knows for sure. But does it really matter? Not really. Does arguing help anything? Not really. No one will know until someone actually decides to do rotary testing on syn oils....more than likely for the RX-9. So just make your decision based on what you have researched

Personally, I use Castrol 10w-40 conventional. I bought this car with low-ish compression and an unsatisfactory oil change history, so I just stuck with conventional since that's what the prev. owner had been using, and because I didn't want to spend the money when it wouldn't help at this point. I chose to put that money toward premix instead

 

oh my god ... again .. it has been PROVEN it burns just as clean if not cleaner ...

whatever man, just use whatever.

 

Honestly? Who cares?

I mean really, the whole debate is:
"which burns cleaner: Filthy 4-stroke synthetic oil labeled as synthetic or filthy 4-stroke synthetic oil labeled as non-synthetic"

Neither was designed to be burned, and the sludge, contaminates, etc... will NEVER burn clean anyway!


Get a SOHN adapter and stop burning the 4-stroke to begin with. Then, you can use whatever oil you want for the high sheer high rpm environment of the e-shaft without worrying about what it burns like.

 

funny most crap came from the gas you pump in, yet no one blame them.

 

All I was saying was that people are always going to argue about it and there's no point. From what I've read, I agree with you. Synthetic is as good, more likely it's better. I just don't because my engine is ****. I was just saying everyone needs to make their own decision rather than arguing about it because no one gets anywhere

 

i know,

but im really just a bit sick of all these random noobs coming in and "OMG MY NEIGHBOR'S DOG SAID Synthetic ITZ NO GOOD CUZ blah blah blah" ...

all just pure bs, but when u try to correct them, they start being defensive by throwing even more bs at you

 

Maybe if the neighbor's dog worked for ExxonMobil or Mazda....lol but really, bullshit + bullshit=everyone being stupider from having read the post. Everybody thinks synthetic is bad just like the whole "premium makes your car faster" bullshit idea. No one actually looks at the logic behind it, they just listen to everyone else

 

speak of the devil, my father used to think the same bs, u know, premium makes u go faster ... until I sit down and explain everything to him (and that **** took a WHILE!)

now he just put regular (That's what the car asked for)

*shurgs*

 

So ummm wow, you aren't going to take care of your car because it was previousely abused. I wonder how long it will be before your parting it out. FYI oil changes with semi senthetic 5w20 from Mazda every 7500 miles kept my car running good for 138000 miles. It had a coolant seal failure.

 

Its not about which one burns cleaner (less build up).

Its about the chemical reaction on what is left behind after it is burned.

Synthetic oil will leave a sludge gooie mess. Will mess the plugs up and hard to clean.

Non-synthetic will burn differently not cleaner. With a good tune and right plug. You can burn it up clean. As Synthetic will not burn clean. It will always leave a residue. And if that residue is heated up to burn it off, it turns into a sandy texture.

It is the properties of the oil it self, not which one will burn cleaner or less. Its just the nature of the beast on being synthetic. They are getting better on how much residue is left behind but it is that residue which causes problems. They just prolonged it before you see a problem.

 

Don't "ummm wow" me. I'm not some random noob that's abusing their 8. I change my own oil every 2500-3000 miles with 10w-40, not 5w-20, premix, run premium, and anything else my 8 possibly needs. I do all my own mechanic work, because the techs at my stealership are lying SOBs. I've done two ignition overhauls since I got it 25k ago, a coolant flush, gearbox oil change with motorcraft synthetic, etc. So don't even start jumping conclusions and saying I don't take care of it. I simply don't run synthetic because it wouldn't help at this point. Apparently the prev. owner believed in 10k OCIs....sadly found out when I went to change the oil after I got the 8 home. You have no clue how much was wrong with my car that I had to fix when I got it. I don't mean to be an ***, but it really pisses me off when people tell me I don't take care of my 8, when it's the complete opposite. And btw, it's not like you had bearing failure. I'm not saying that 5w-20 is any good whatsoever, but I don't think using it would cause a coolant seal failure. That's usually from overheating or poor build quality.

-end rant