hey guys, another question. before the motor goes into my 8, is there anything i need/should do? Im pretty sure i will be getting over sized apex seals if the guy who is putting it in feels he can put them on.. Just looking for anything i can do while the motor and maybe make it run better. :D

 

If the guy putting your engine together feels like he can do it and has never done it, I would suggest a different engine builder.

 

well putting in the motor in is not hard, but braking the motor down and pulling the rotors and installing seals are not as easy. I know he can put the motor in with out a problem. just want to insure the life of the motor so i dont have to go and redo all this again. i know the oversized apex seals are a good starting point.

Some guy was telling me about something in the motors that are made out of a wood or its wood-like. i had no clue what he was talking about. talking about how it messes up if it soaks up to much oil. maybe someone can shed a little light on whatever he was talking about.

 

wow ... "feel like"?

good luck buddy.

 

I believe Mazda recommends replacing the main fuel line / coupling whenever it has been disconnected....

 

yeah, that 1 foot line.

if u don't replace that, don't come back 2 weeks later and cry that ur car has burn to a crisp.

 

I have had my upper intake (and that line) off atleast a dozen times and never had a failure. Just make sure it clicks into place. Mine feels as strong and hard to remove as the first time I took it off. It might help that my car only has 25K miles. Plastics brake down because of the effects of heat over time.

I am a little confused about what the OP is doing. Is he having someone remove, rebuild and reinstall the motor? If so, he needs to find an experianced rotary builder. Just use new mazda parts i the motor and call it a day. I like mazda apex seals with atkins cryo treated side seals and side seal springs. Unlike the turbocharged rx7's this motor does not blow apex seals (due to the side ports) we blow side seals and usually due to prolonged high heat and eventual failure of the side seal springs.

After the motor build, inspect and replace as needed: the thermostat, water pump, belts, hoses, clamps, fluids/filter, oil lines (easy with the motor out. Hard with the motor in) and may as well replace or modify the engine mounts, although they are not that hard when in the car.

 

there were car fire related to that hose, the quick connect tab just suck. I rather just use the good old hose clip on a good fuel injection hose and call it a day.

just cryotreat the stock seals will work just as well I think.

 

I know it happens, but I dont think it is a normal occurrence. I think you can rule out half of the incidents for improper install and of the remaining half, most were probably week or damaged when removed. All I can say is that I hav had mine off and reused over a dozen times and no problem. Mine click hard into place everytime and are a chalenge to remove every single time. Side note, I have a vented hood and 25K miles on my car, so I am sure my lines have not been exposed to as much heat as a regular 100K mile chassis.


[/QUOTE] just cryotreat the stock seals will work just as well I think.[/QUOTE]

Atkis sells OEM and their own treated and non treated sells.

 

I have low compression on the motor right now, (looking for a newer -ish motor now). The guy putting it in i know can handle the swap of motors. I am asking is there anything that should be done before the new motor goes in just to be on the safer side. such as replacing that line. I my self did not know i should replace that. Maybe the guy doing it does but i did not.


Is there a line from the fuel tank that if its messed with or broken you have to replace the whole tank? Maybe under the rear seats, not really sure about it, just thought i would ask about it.

 

I think these threads will start poping up like weeds in the coming months... So I am going to be nice in this thread only.

Your rotary builder should have all your answers for you. Don't pay him to do a job and us tell you what hes supposed to do that's dumb.

In any event theres a **** ton of stuff you can replace, while the motors out. I could start a list for you but I'm too tired and my head hurts.

You don't need to put in larger apex seals the 2mm work fine.

Who is the shop you took your car to? Have they rebuilt renesis engines before, Not just rotary's but specifically the renesis?

I'll let you figure out the fuel line question if you ever have a look at your car.

Good luck champ.