Very interesting. I learned a lot. Thanks for taking the time to post that info and those pics, too.

 

I want to know which dealership and who said that.

So I can call and ask him why.

 

You can call my Mazda Dealer out here and they will tell you the same thing. Might not tell you why but they might say well thats what Mazda said.

 

Mazda never say dont use it, just dont recommend cuz they never "tested" it.

never tested it my ***, Im sure they did, its just that its always easier to talk than action

hell my dealer just screwed me up last week by overfilled it with 5 quarts of 5w-30. Mazda recommend 5w-20, right ? Never trust a dealership.

 

*sigh*

Another one of those

*I heard my master's friend's student's friend's neigbor's friend's master said that it effect the seals 30+ f-ing years ago!*

 

LOL!

 

There is no consensus not to use Synth.

There is one to use a heavier weight yes, but not one not to use synth.

Every single person on this forum who is not using synth is doing it for 1 of 2 reasons:

1 - Its less expensive (Thats fine, and it is true that no matter what you put in, if you change it regularly, its not a big deal).

2 - They are following the manual. Mazda has never once explained why not to use synthetic oil, because they have no good reason. But people follow it anyways, because most people a - Dont want to be bothered (and thats fine) or b - They think oil is some magical ointment and there are magical rules that must be followed or else everything goes boom.

Ok, I over exagerate a little, but the simple fact is. Find 1 good reason not to use synthetic oil in 2008!!??!? Cant find one ? Thats what I thought.

Now we should all think about that.

 

Must have been an old timer - that's the old story.

The current anti-synth reasoning is related to the ports getting carboned up because of the combustion characteristics of synth vs dino. Somewhere on this site are two TSBs - one from Australia, one from the Netherlands - showing ugly carbon buildup they attribute to synthetic oil.

FWIW, those TSBs do provide an explanation of why they don't recommend synth.

Ken

 

mine 60k with synthetic then changed to mineral/dino untill now, my milleage is 80k

 

There is also a third group that follows the logic(somewhat proven by staticlag) that Synthetic does NOT combust as well at semi-lwo temps and therefore leaves more deposits. This is somewhat backed up by the crusty deposits found in Mysql's otherwise "pristine" motor, with a cracked iron.

FWIW, i don't find the benefit of paying triple price for oil that may marginally protect better, but almost cerrtainly does not combust as well, and therefore is far more liekly to cause problems down the road with additional buildup.

That's all besides the fact that I've had mechanics up and down the east coast tell me that synthetic is more snake oil then actual benefit, specifically when oil change intervals fall within a safe range. Our cars burn a quart or less every thousand, and I change my oil within 5k every time. I don't see the point in paying triple, for IMO more risk.

 

more like Mazda is trying to scare people away.

I've seen worst, pictures of motors that used nothing but Dino.

meh, Mazda can do whatever they want, I mean they did design the motor in the first place. but judging from the way they deny warranties and stuff, I can totally understand their position in terms of Synthetic oil use.

 

The rotors will always have carbon on them. They do not touch anything, they just sit in the middle of the engine and spin as the fuel is ignited.

There is nothing you can do to avoid it. This is how a rotary works.

Furthermore, since you did not notice - I use the sohn adapter. Which means my engine oil never touches the seals.

So that's two strikes for you

 

Me personally, I don't knwo enough about any of this to talk. I'm passing along second party info. Staticlag is the only one that has put any sort of scientific research up on this board. He was also the one to notice the crusty stuff that looked jsut like what was in his royal purple crucible tests that made him believe Royal Puprle was the WORST possible oil for a renny...

that said, I overwhelmingly thing that suign a sohn adapter in a blown car is the way to go. That way you can seperate the engine oil from the two stroke oil that is designed to go into combusition chambers.

Since that's overkill in a nearly new stock vehicle, I simply jsut stay away from snake oil synthetic and change my oil. As I have said, basically every mechanic I have talked to shakes his head and laughs at the mere mention of synthetic.

 

I completely agree, that if oil changes are done at close intervals, Dino or Synth, is no big deal.

And I agree, if some find it too expensive, its a very legitimate reason to stick with Dino, Which is my Category 1-

I too, do not want to pay 40$ in oil every oil change (remember I live in Canuckistan, where things are more expensive even though our dollar is strong )

Which Is why Im happy I found ESSO XD-3 Full Synth.

22$ for 4Liters.

Almost as cheap as dino, and very well respect (albeit hard to find) Synthetic oil. 0w40 to boot, which means good all year long here in Montreal, where temps range from -40 F to 110 F.

Edit: And in my opinion, if there is a field, where the supposed experts are far from experts, its Mechanics.

They know how to turn wrenches, when they follow a manual, but most don't know squat about what they are doing. I'm no expert in this field, and I'm ready to bet I have put in 50times the amount of research into combustion engines, oils, etc... than the avg mechanic.

 

premium synthetic oil

 

First, you revive a year and a half old thread with 3 words.
Then, you fail to provide any useful or relevant info.

 

But he revived an oil thread, and there's a definite shortage of those.

As long as it's alive, I've got an oil question I have not seen before.

Why does our oil not get dirty? I've got 40,000 miles on my 8 now, and the oil on the dipstick comes up clean as new, even when due for a change. Every other car I've owned, even with changes every 3000 miles, the oil eventually becomes dirty. I suspect it's because there's no blow-by, pretty much a corollary to the reason why oil needs to be injected.

In that case, why does everyone stress that a rotary's oil needs to be changed often?

Ken

 

 

Yeah its oil discussion time. Let me get my popcorn!

 

oh man this is gonna be fun.