Best Way To Go About Clutch Bracket Replacement
#1
Best Way To Go About Clutch Bracket Replacement
Hey guys,
So I hear the squeaky noise, my clutch does move a little latterly (not that much) I have a feeling that its about to break, i want to avoid any problems while im driving to work or whatever so Im trying to solve this now.
Ive read many people having problems taking it to mazda before its actually broken
I dont mind replacing it now and fixing it with one of those Reinforcement Brackets before it gets worse. My question is should I buy a new clutch pedal kit and then buy a new reinforcement bracket with it since its showing those small signs? Or should I just buy the reinforcement bracket and apply it to the existing kit.
So I hear the squeaky noise, my clutch does move a little latterly (not that much) I have a feeling that its about to break, i want to avoid any problems while im driving to work or whatever so Im trying to solve this now.
Ive read many people having problems taking it to mazda before its actually broken
I dont mind replacing it now and fixing it with one of those Reinforcement Brackets before it gets worse. My question is should I buy a new clutch pedal kit and then buy a new reinforcement bracket with it since its showing those small signs? Or should I just buy the reinforcement bracket and apply it to the existing kit.
#3
#225 of 1000
iTrader: (7)
You can either buy another oem pedal kit - and it will break again
You can buy the reinforcement bracket - and it will slow down the breaking process.
though what people tend to do for the best result is to just weld it back together once it snaps. Some put the bracket on after this, but it isnt required. If it ever snaps again they just pay the nominal fee for a welder to weld it back up.
You can buy the reinforcement bracket - and it will slow down the breaking process.
though what people tend to do for the best result is to just weld it back together once it snaps. Some put the bracket on after this, but it isnt required. If it ever snaps again they just pay the nominal fee for a welder to weld it back up.
#7
#8
Rotary Evolution
the removal and installation is easy, just remove the 12mm nuts from the pedal to firewall as well as the 2 electrical connections and slide it off the car. installation is reverse order.
#9
Registered
There's a TSB on this. Worth dowloading that because it shows where the crack usually occurs, and also gives the bolt tightening sequence. Mazda says failure is from incorrect installation, so it makes sense to folow that when you put the new one in.
Squeaking can also be caused by the cut switch (TSB on that), or by failure of one of the plastic bushings where the spring is anchored. Mine squoke because of a bushing.
Ken
Squeaking can also be caused by the cut switch (TSB on that), or by failure of one of the plastic bushings where the spring is anchored. Mine squoke because of a bushing.
Ken
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