I used the Red Line MT-90 in my gearbox (and 75W/90 in my diff) and noticed no difference at all actually, my first to second shift is still a bit notchy. BTW, before using Water Wetter, read this thread and follow the links to another few threads. Some cars will run too cold with Water Wetter.......

Gomez.

 

Gomez,

I forgot about that thread. I think that is a totally different issue that even piston engines have. I was going down a snow mountain last year in my other car (piston engine car) and I was surprised to see the engine temp way down low for over 30 minutes. So it's not something specific to the rotary.

 

This may be applicable

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/100%25-better-shifting-44847/

 

I have royal purple in the engine and red line in the tranny and LSD. Couldn't be happier.

I use Royal Purple 5w20 in the engine, Red line MT-90 in the tranny, and Red Line 75w90 in the LSD..

Make sure you DO NOT get the Red Line 75w90ns since it's for non-limited slip differentials and you'll hurt your 8 Most places have both right next to each other and it's easy to pick up the wrong one off the shelf.

 

Thanks Gambit, I had read that thread before but you've prompted me to do a bit of digging deeper into the "bob is the oil guy" forum. There's definately a core theory on that forum that a 50/50 mix of MT-90/MTL is the way to go for notchy transmissions in moderate climates. Straight MTL for those who have a lot of snow about......

Must track myself down a bottle of MTL....

Gomez.

 

No prob...I had that one saved in my subscribed threads for when it comes time for me to change my fluids...only got about 1500mi on it now

 

I had talked earlier in that thread in response to StealthTL that I might try the 50/50 but it seems my MT90 is coming around, loosening up in the mornings as I put more miles on it.

 

Maybe there is a better thread for my results.. If you guys suggest one I'll put it there.. if not.. then i'll just post my new graph tonight here.

thankx!

 

dave, I think your results are important enough to warrant a new thread. Maybe you can put the before and after in BOTH threads.

 

The operating temp of the Rotary Engine is regulated by the coolant and oil thermostats at 180 F, unless the Renesis has a different thermostat. Adding Water Wetter will not change that, what it's supposed to do is improve the transient temperature changes. For example, it may make that spike go down to 180 faster.

 

Ohh ok.. I'll test it out tonight and run the same pattern that I did and we'll see how it effects it..

Should be interesting... I'll create a new thread if it's that amazing Maybe I will anyway just to let people know it didnt help me that much....

 

Yeah, it would be awesome to see that peak go down faster on a graph. Sorry but I get excited about graphs and science.

 

Dave, probably better to post your results in this thread . The data will be overshadowed in this thread about Red Line oil....

Gomez.

 

OK.. I updated that other thread.. doesnt look good for wetter so far..

 

Sorry to resurrect this thread, didn't want to start a new one unnecessarily. My car just ticked 30k miles and I'm going to get the trans and diff fluid changed. My best friend is a master mechanic and they use only BG fluids at his shop, so it's going to be Synchroshift 2 in the trans and UltraGuard for the rear. I know BG Ultraguard comes in 75w90 but it may be available in other weights, i called Mazda and asked them what they use for the rear and they said Mazda's factory rear diff fluid is 75w140 but 75w90 or 75w120 would work just fine. I've read countless threads on which fluid is better but it usually involves Redline and RP and mentions nothing of BG fluids (minus a member that sells it apparently), so i wanted to see if anyone had any experience with synchroshift 2 and its cold and warm weather properties regarding the RX8. I had synchroshift in my audi and i remember it being really tough to shift in extremely cold weather but once the trans was warm things got really smooth and this was with an original trans/flywheel/clutch with 150k miles on it. I can only imagine that with a practically new transmission i shouldn't have any problems, but i figured i would proceed with caution since i would like to avoid replacing the trans in the future if i can.