Bleeding and Flushing Brakes on 2007
#1
Bleeding and Flushing Brakes on 2007
Well I tried to swap out for some ATE Super Blue in prep for a track day this weekend...
In the end, soft brakes.
I had a couple questions about the process:
1) When we started flushing the right rear and left rear, we used the manual pump method and watched for blue fluid. However, only the passenger side of the master cylinder reservior changed to blue. It wasn't until we started flushing the front brakes that the driver side of the reservoir converted to blue. I thought the opposite corner are tied together, but apparently front and rear are separate?
2) Related to #1, I see a hose from the reservior to the clutch slave cylinder. I did NOT bleed the clutch. If the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir, do I need to bleed the clutch? I am not sure the effects of mixed fluid (ie reservoir filled with DOT4 Blue but clutch lines have DOT3). ANSWER: NO NEED TO BLEED CLUTCH, AS DOT 3 AND DOT 4 ARE COMPATIBLE.
3) Has there been any confirmation of the need to bleed the MC on 05+ cars. As many other threads mention, the 05 and later models do not appear to have a bleeder screw. B/C of this, I just bled in the RR, LR, FR, FL order. Unfortunately, I have a soft pedal so we are going to try again tonight (assuming we let air in at some point in the flushing process).
4) Has anyone been successful at bleeding their brakes while leaving the wheels on? There is a few inches in there to work... Definately would be more convenient.
Any help would be appreciated!
In the end, soft brakes.
I had a couple questions about the process:
1) When we started flushing the right rear and left rear, we used the manual pump method and watched for blue fluid. However, only the passenger side of the master cylinder reservior changed to blue. It wasn't until we started flushing the front brakes that the driver side of the reservoir converted to blue. I thought the opposite corner are tied together, but apparently front and rear are separate?
2) Related to #1, I see a hose from the reservior to the clutch slave cylinder. I did NOT bleed the clutch. If the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir, do I need to bleed the clutch? I am not sure the effects of mixed fluid (ie reservoir filled with DOT4 Blue but clutch lines have DOT3). ANSWER: NO NEED TO BLEED CLUTCH, AS DOT 3 AND DOT 4 ARE COMPATIBLE.
3) Has there been any confirmation of the need to bleed the MC on 05+ cars. As many other threads mention, the 05 and later models do not appear to have a bleeder screw. B/C of this, I just bled in the RR, LR, FR, FL order. Unfortunately, I have a soft pedal so we are going to try again tonight (assuming we let air in at some point in the flushing process).
4) Has anyone been successful at bleeding their brakes while leaving the wheels on? There is a few inches in there to work... Definately would be more convenient.
Any help would be appreciated!
Last edited by 18bsTiRX8; 04-17-2007 at 09:03 AM.
#2
My '05 has the MC bleeder screw, I still had hard brakes prior to ever bleeding it ...
Don't know why people have brake bleeding issues on this car though. I've always done it the same as any other car and never had a problem
front and rear have a separator in the reservoir, based on what you posted it sounds like you may have drained one side down and sucked air into the MC. You're suppose to keep the MC near full when bleeding, which means constantly adding fluid if you don't use a pressure bleeder. I do it the manual single-man way ....
Don't know why people have brake bleeding issues on this car though. I've always done it the same as any other car and never had a problem
front and rear have a separator in the reservoir, based on what you posted it sounds like you may have drained one side down and sucked air into the MC. You're suppose to keep the MC near full when bleeding, which means constantly adding fluid if you don't use a pressure bleeder. I do it the manual single-man way ....
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-23-2007 at 06:23 PM.
#5
Originally Posted by 18bsTiRX8
4) Has anyone been successful at bleeding their brakes while leaving the wheels on? There is a few inches in there to work... Definately would be more convenient.
Any help would be appreciated!
Any help would be appreciated!
I didn't realize the MC bleeder was gone(?)
#7
i am getting ready to do a rotor / pad / paint calipers / change fluid / ss lines swap..
i just picked up a one man bleeder from mac tools, i will give a review when done... works like a speed bleeder, but you just do one brake at a time..
beers
i just picked up a one man bleeder from mac tools, i will give a review when done... works like a speed bleeder, but you just do one brake at a time..
beers
#8
Originally Posted by LionZoo
Manual single man way? Do you use speed bleeders or something?
I use the old timer original speed bleeder method
run a tube out of the caliper to several inches above the highest spot on the caliper, and then down into tall, narrow container. Open the bleeder, then get in the car and push the brake pedal down. Release slowly, and then repeat as many times as necessary to bleed the amount you want. This works beause there is always a certain amount of fluid trapped above the bleed screw in the tube part that goes up several inches and the fluid flows the easiest direction, which is to fill the MC piston areafrom the reservior rather than pulling it all the way back from the caliper. Been doing it this way for over 20 yrs ...
You can even bleed by gravity (no pumping) if you're patient and have a lot of time nbecause the MC reservoir is higher than the caliper; the brake fluid will flow from the reservoir and through the system, albeit slowly.
I personally would prefer a MC with the bleed screw. If you ever do need to bleed the MC it is infinitely easier and cleaner with the bleed screw
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-23-2007 at 09:25 PM.
#9
I use the old timer original speed bleeder method
run a tube out of the caliper to several inches above the highest spot on the caliper, and then down into tall, narrow container. Open the bleeder, then get in the car and push the brake pedal down. Release slowly, and then repeat as many times as necessary to bleed the amount you want. This works beause there is always a certain amount of fluid trapped above the bleed screw in the tube part that goes up several inches and the fluid flows the easiest direction, which is to fill the MC piston areafrom the reservior rather than pulling it all the way back from the caliper. Been doing it this way for over 20 yrs ...
You can even bleed by gravity (no pumping) if you're patient and have a lot of time nbecause the MC reservoir is higher than the caliper; the brake fluid will flow from the reservoir and through the system, albeit slowly.
I personally would prefer a MC with the bleed screw. If you ever do need to bleed the MC it is infinitely easier and cleaner with the bleed screw
run a tube out of the caliper to several inches above the highest spot on the caliper, and then down into tall, narrow container. Open the bleeder, then get in the car and push the brake pedal down. Release slowly, and then repeat as many times as necessary to bleed the amount you want. This works beause there is always a certain amount of fluid trapped above the bleed screw in the tube part that goes up several inches and the fluid flows the easiest direction, which is to fill the MC piston areafrom the reservior rather than pulling it all the way back from the caliper. Been doing it this way for over 20 yrs ...
You can even bleed by gravity (no pumping) if you're patient and have a lot of time nbecause the MC reservoir is higher than the caliper; the brake fluid will flow from the reservoir and through the system, albeit slowly.
I personally would prefer a MC with the bleed screw. If you ever do need to bleed the MC it is infinitely easier and cleaner with the bleed screw
Last edited by Startl_Respons; 01-18-2008 at 07:18 AM.
#12
People are saying here and elsewhere online that Castrol SRF is absolutely in a class by itself, even better than Motul Blue. Apparently SRF is higher than Motul in both dry and wet boiling points and doesn't have to be changed nearly as often, but SRF costs a lot.
I believe even for tracking, as long as you are willing to bleed often, people are saying Valvoline SynPower is the best bang for the buck. I have compared the data for a bunch of brake fluids and I have decided to get SynPower, although I will never track my car.
I believe even for tracking, as long as you are willing to bleed often, people are saying Valvoline SynPower is the best bang for the buck. I have compared the data for a bunch of brake fluids and I have decided to get SynPower, although I will never track my car.
#13
#15
If you have 2 people you can bleed your brakes. And yes you can bleed your brakes with the wheels on you just have to jack up that side to give you a little more room. And make sure whiule bleeding the brakes that the fluid is always full to not get air in the lines and soft brake pedal
#16
People are saying here and elsewhere online that Castrol SRF is absolutely in a class by itself, even better than Motul Blue. Apparently SRF is higher than Motul in both dry and wet boiling points and doesn't have to be changed nearly as often, but SRF costs a lot.
I believe even for tracking, as long as you are willing to bleed often, people are saying Valvoline SynPower is the best bang for the buck. I have compared the data for a bunch of brake fluids and I have decided to get SynPower, although I will never track my car.
I believe even for tracking, as long as you are willing to bleed often, people are saying Valvoline SynPower is the best bang for the buck. I have compared the data for a bunch of brake fluids and I have decided to get SynPower, although I will never track my car.
#17
Well I tried to swap out for some ATE Super Blue in prep for a track day this weekend...
In the end, soft brakes.
I had a couple questions about the process:
1) When we started flushing the right rear and left rear, we used the manual pump method and watched for blue fluid. However, only the passenger side of the master cylinder reservior changed to blue. It wasn't until we started flushing the front brakes that the driver side of the reservoir converted to blue. I thought the opposite corner are tied together, but apparently front and rear are separate?
In the end, soft brakes.
I had a couple questions about the process:
1) When we started flushing the right rear and left rear, we used the manual pump method and watched for blue fluid. However, only the passenger side of the master cylinder reservior changed to blue. It wasn't until we started flushing the front brakes that the driver side of the reservoir converted to blue. I thought the opposite corner are tied together, but apparently front and rear are separate?
2) Related to #1, I see a hose from the reservior to the clutch slave cylinder. I did NOT bleed the clutch. If the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir, do I need to bleed the clutch? I am not sure the effects of mixed fluid (ie reservoir filled with DOT4 Blue but clutch lines have DOT3). ANSWER: NO NEED TO BLEED CLUTCH, AS DOT 3 AND DOT 4 ARE COMPATIBLE.
3) Has there been any confirmation of the need to bleed the MC on 05+ cars. As many other threads mention, the 05 and later models do not appear to have a bleeder screw. B/C of this, I just bled in the RR, LR, FR, FL order. Unfortunately, I have a soft pedal so we are going to try again tonight (assuming we let air in at some point in the flushing process).
4) Has anyone been successful at bleeding their brakes while leaving the wheels on? There is a few inches in there to work... Definately would be more convenient.
Change gloves often, try to use neoprene whenever possible.
So the question is not really whether you "can" but rather, can you do it without spilling it on your wheels/paint/yourself
You should take the emergency brake off when bleeding the rear brakes.
Last edited by staticlag; 01-18-2008 at 09:56 AM.
#19
What I can say about my own experience is when I did my brake pads and pushed the caliper pistons in and the brake fluid in the reservoir went way up, I sucked out a lot of the fluid, way under the full line. But when I finished all the brake pads, the level went up again (I did not add any brake fluid) and I assumed everything was great. Now my brake pedal is very mushy and I have to depress very far before I get braking action.
I wonder if air got into my reservoir when the fluid went way down.
#20
Interesting you say that because in a lot of the bleeding brakes threads (I must have read about 8 of them), some people say they suck out as much of the brake fluid in the reservoir as they can before adding in the new brake fluid. And I'm not talking about only people who do a full flush.
What I can say about my own experience is when I did my brake pads and pushed the caliper pistons in and the brake fluid in the reservoir went way up, I sucked out a lot of the fluid, way under the full line. But when I finished all the brake pads, the level went up again (I did not add any brake fluid). Now my brake pedal is very mushy and I have to depress very far before I get braking action.
I wonder if air got into my reservoir when the fluid went way down.
What I can say about my own experience is when I did my brake pads and pushed the caliper pistons in and the brake fluid in the reservoir went way up, I sucked out a lot of the fluid, way under the full line. But when I finished all the brake pads, the level went up again (I did not add any brake fluid). Now my brake pedal is very mushy and I have to depress very far before I get braking action.
I wonder if air got into my reservoir when the fluid went way down.
If you press the pedal at all when its that low it will gulp air into the system when you release it.
The way they do it is just a pre-operation before even touching the pedal at all.
Last edited by staticlag; 01-18-2008 at 11:11 AM.
#21
usually the only time you want to do that is when you are going to do a full flush.
replacing all the fluid in MC + bleeding all the lines = full flush
It isn't a major problem if air gets in, it just means you have to bleed everything again including clutch, time consuming but not a very costly mistake.
replacing all the fluid in MC + bleeding all the lines = full flush
It isn't a major problem if air gets in, it just means you have to bleed everything again including clutch, time consuming but not a very costly mistake.
#23
Yeah it had occurred to me my last post might cause confusion. I haven't bleeded my brakes yet. When I said "my own experience," I meant changing my brake pads and sucking out some brake fluid in the reservoir.
Thanks for the help. I think I'm close to being ready to bleed the brakes. I also think I'm going to skip the speedbleeders and just do a "one-man bleed" using TeamRX8's method.
Thanks for the help. I think I'm close to being ready to bleed the brakes. I also think I'm going to skip the speedbleeders and just do a "one-man bleed" using TeamRX8's method.
#24
Hate to revive this but what do you guys think is the best method of bleeding the brakes on the RX8? I haven't bled them myself in a long time and woudl like to do it from now on.
#25
I like speedbleeders...you just have to keep from reefing on them..they are more fragile than regular bleeders
A power bleeder is nice if you have one...but I have never found they do a better job that you can by hand
In the end they are all the same if you get the old fluid out..and have no air
A power bleeder is nice if you have one...but I have never found they do a better job that you can by hand
In the end they are all the same if you get the old fluid out..and have no air