Bleeding and Flushing Brakes on 2007
12-27-2009, 11:39 PM
#29
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I suggest you bleed the MC first if you have the bleed screw.
Oh, and does our ABS unit need to be bled? I read around that on other cars this needed to be bled separately as well. Thanks.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 12-27-2009 at 11:48 PM.
12-28-2009, 12:01 AM
#30
MM : what sup with your avatar dude, **** scared me. :P
9k : I think they took the bleed screw out, starting 06+ models. I know my 05+ has it, you have a 04 right? so you should have it.
anyway, bleed from MC, then bleed RR, RL, FR, FL. Repeat one more time. You're done.
I used to bleed from closest first, never had a problem, but guys here corrected me (got it from FSM) so ...
Dont have to Bleed ABS.
9k : I think they took the bleed screw out, starting 06+ models. I know my 05+ has it, you have a 04 right? so you should have it.
anyway, bleed from MC, then bleed RR, RL, FR, FL. Repeat one more time. You're done.
I used to bleed from closest first, never had a problem, but guys here corrected me (got it from FSM) so ...
Dont have to Bleed ABS.
12-28-2009, 05:52 AM
#31
Momentum Keeps Me Going
9k : I think they took the bleed screw out, starting 06+ models. I know my 05+ has it, you have a 04 right? so you should have it.
anyway, bleed from MC, then bleed RR, RL, FR, FL. Repeat one more time. You're done.
I used to bleed from closest first, never had a problem, but guys here corrected me (got it from FSM) so ...
Dont have to Bleed ABS.
anyway, bleed from MC, then bleed RR, RL, FR, FL. Repeat one more time. You're done.
I used to bleed from closest first, never had a problem, but guys here corrected me (got it from FSM) so ...
Dont have to Bleed ABS.
Stupid dealer did this to me when they put my SS brake hoses on and had to drain the system. The didn't do the MC one last time and let me drive off the lot with virtually NO brakes (pedal to the floor). Why they didn't do a road test is amazing in and of itself....but when I asked about how they did the procedure, and as they said no MC at the end, and I showed them the manual.... they said "...really?". I guess dealers don't read service manuals....
"Begin air bleeding with the master cyclinder and then continue with the brake caliper that is furthest away from the master cyclinder. Finish by beeding air from the master cyclinder again." ...excerpt from RX-8 Service Manual
PS I'd say the "speed bleeders" are your best bet if you intend to bleed frequently. Makes the assistant job much easier if you use one (wife)!
03-10-2010, 12:34 PM
#34
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Team,
I tried the one-man method last night on my clutch and my MC. The problem is, despite the fact that I ran my tubing several inches above the MC when I bled it, the fluid would go further back into the bleeder when I released the brake pedal than where it started. The result was that it sucked air in. My solution was to watch the fluid carefully and release the brake pedal very, very slowly, which remedied this for the most part. But on my last pedal stroke I still had to reach over with my foot on the pedal and close the bleeder to prevent sucking air in. I had the same result whether the reservoir cap was on or off. So I have two questions.
1) Was I doing something wrong, such as not opening the bleeder far enough?
2) It seemed that the fluid really didn't get very far up the tube (12"-18") when pushing the brake pedal and came back exactly to the same point (or further back) when I released it. I need to flush the entire system soon. I'm still unclear on whether the one-man method (no speed bleeders) is feasible for flushing the entire braking / clutch system (calipers, clutch slave, MC) in a timely manner. Is it?
Thx
I tried the one-man method last night on my clutch and my MC. The problem is, despite the fact that I ran my tubing several inches above the MC when I bled it, the fluid would go further back into the bleeder when I released the brake pedal than where it started. The result was that it sucked air in. My solution was to watch the fluid carefully and release the brake pedal very, very slowly, which remedied this for the most part. But on my last pedal stroke I still had to reach over with my foot on the pedal and close the bleeder to prevent sucking air in. I had the same result whether the reservoir cap was on or off. So I have two questions.
1) Was I doing something wrong, such as not opening the bleeder far enough?
2) It seemed that the fluid really didn't get very far up the tube (12"-18") when pushing the brake pedal and came back exactly to the same point (or further back) when I released it. I need to flush the entire system soon. I'm still unclear on whether the one-man method (no speed bleeders) is feasible for flushing the entire braking / clutch system (calipers, clutch slave, MC) in a timely manner. Is it?
Thx
I use the old timer original speed bleeder method 
run a tube out of the caliper to several inches above the highest spot on the caliper, and then down into tall, narrow container. Open the bleeder, then get in the car and push the brake pedal down. Release slowly, and then repeat as many times as necessary to bleed the amount you want. This works beause there is always a certain amount of fluid trapped above the bleed screw in the tube part that goes up several inches and the fluid flows the easiest direction, which is to fill the MC piston areafrom the reservior rather than pulling it all the way back from the caliper. Been doing it this way for over 20 yrs ...
You can even bleed by gravity (no pumping) if you're patient and have a lot of time nbecause the MC reservoir is higher than the caliper; the brake fluid will flow from the reservoir and through the system, albeit slowly.
I personally would prefer a MC with the bleed screw. If you ever do need to bleed the MC it is infinitely easier and cleaner with the bleed screw
run a tube out of the caliper to several inches above the highest spot on the caliper, and then down into tall, narrow container. Open the bleeder, then get in the car and push the brake pedal down. Release slowly, and then repeat as many times as necessary to bleed the amount you want. This works beause there is always a certain amount of fluid trapped above the bleed screw in the tube part that goes up several inches and the fluid flows the easiest direction, which is to fill the MC piston areafrom the reservior rather than pulling it all the way back from the caliper. Been doing it this way for over 20 yrs ...
You can even bleed by gravity (no pumping) if you're patient and have a lot of time nbecause the MC reservoir is higher than the caliper; the brake fluid will flow from the reservoir and through the system, albeit slowly.
I personally would prefer a MC with the bleed screw. If you ever do need to bleed the MC it is infinitely easier and cleaner with the bleed screw
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