maverick02

19mm socket, 10" ratchet extension.. NOTHING.. it wont budge.. counter clockwise, right?

I think the idiots who changed it before tightened it WAY too much.

eddiec727

if you seriously cant do it by hands maybe you should get an impact gun.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Impact gun is the only way to go. especially if the edge has been *smoothen* out already.

HCTR154

A long time ago, my dad told me something when it came to your situation. Instead of just pulling with all you might in one pull, try bumping it ....kinda like a slow motion impact wrench if you think about it. It has worked for me for a lot of tempermental bolts and such. Hope this helps.

Razz1

Use a torque wrench, like the big ones for your tire lug nuts. (Leverage)

Yes, usually a good bump does it. The jolt works every time for me. I use a hammer.

Make sure the engine is cold. Warm up for 3 minutes then change the oil.

Otherwise is try to change it when it's hot.... the bolt is harder to remove.

maverick02

yeah I didnt run the engine today yet before trying to remove it. I had the car up on stands, got my *** all the way in and used all my strength.. IT WILL NOT budge.. i tried to hit the ratchet with a hammer, bump it.. nothing.. i'm really pissed.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Get a decent 1/2" drive socket set with a long bar (about 18" should be good) . Then set it up so it won't fall off the nut and stomp on it with your foot

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

you should not use a torque wrench for undoing ........

maverick02

How do you set it up so it wont fall off the nut from that length?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Be imaginative - Us Kiwis are used to improvising

Nubo

+1 Torque wrench is for tightening to specs. Using it as a breaker bar can ruin its calibration.

I second the need for impact, and it can be done often with use of a hammer against the wrench. But a regular carpenter's hammer doesn't give you much force and requires too much of a swing to generate force. A short-handled, 2-lb sledge is preferable. It's shorter and you only have to swing it a few inches to generate a good bump. I call it my "Little Persuader". Yes, I have a "Big Persuader" also.

laythor

You can never go wrong with a "BFH"

ken-x8

If you're going to use an 18" breaker bar (one of my favorite tools - second only to my 3/4" drive stuff), use a six point socket.

A hammer and cold chisel can also be used as a poor man's impact driver to break it loose. Put the chisel on one of the bolt's faces, off center and at a slight angle so it's along or slightly outboard of a tangent to the body of the bolt. Then give it a sharp whack.

Ken

Razz1

Sorry your correct. Use a breaker bar that is the same length.

A hammer usually doesn't have enough weight. You really need a heavy weight mallet. I have used my foot several times.

Problem is like they said. Getting into the correct postion to do it, but most importantly make sure the socket will not come off causing the nut to be rounded.

The easy way is to bring it in to you mechanic and have him change the oil and hand tighten the nut. ( Filter too) If you know him well enough he'll loosen it and then re tighten by hand for free.


Once she is tightened by hand don't ever bring it in for an oil change as the will over tighten the plug and oil filter.

Have tried to loosen the filter yet? Those are a bitch too when they use an air gun with fliter socket to tighten down.

SilverStreak

+1 on bumping a breaker bar with a "BFH".

Once you get that sucker off, consider getting a Fumoto valve with the extension (needed for the 8). Then you never have to take off a drain plug again.

maverick02

At the risk of looking like an idiot, can someone please confirm that THIS is the way i should be turning the bolt!!!

ken-x8

Yes - that's the correct direction.

Good luck. BTW - if you wind up with a stripped hole (my fear when something is way too tight), it's not a major disaster. There are rubber drain plug stoppers. Kind of a rubber cylinder with a bolt through it. You'd find them in the "Help" (aka "Bubba was here") section of auto parts stores.

Ken

Redpit10

Ok I got a possible solution. More leverage is key. Instead of bumping and hitting the ratchet (which can work), you should lengthen it instead. You might even need more leverage than a breaker bar can provide. So my dad's solution passed down to me is using a long 1/2 inch length of pipe and sliding it over the breaker bar handle. This way the handle for your breaker bar can be as long as a couple feet. In your case you might need somebody else to hold the ratchet in place while you exert the force.

It should do the trick.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

you can loose MOST of the bolts in Counter-Clockwise direction.

and lessons learn, NEVER EVER change your oil at ANY quick lube place.

maverick02

hey guys.. well i spoke to a couple mech engineer friends (being an EE helps), and they advised me to get a 6 pt box end wrench (ring spanner) and hit it with a hammer... so i picked up one from sears and I'm gonna try it out in a few.

staticlag

did you use 12 pt sockets on that?

maverick02

WORKED! Oil change.. done! Man, i really had to hit the wrench hard a few times to open it up.. 24oz hammer too

maverick02

ratchet socket was 12pt, the box end wrench was 6

maverick02

If anyone runs into trouble, pick up this from sears.. worked great after hitting it with a hammer hard several times. (pic shows wrong size, but the link below will take you to the correct product)





http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...rd=19mm+wrench

staticlag

Problem is that you used 12 pt sockets in the first place. Never use 12pt sockets!!! They strip more nuts than they undo!

Get yourself a nice 6pt socket set.