Breaking in question, need answer ASAP
#26
Totally confuzzled...
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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I've always wondered about this... What purpose does varying your speed serve? I would have thought that maintaining a constant speed (just keeping a stactic load on the engine) would be easier on it?
#27
Originally Posted by MI_FamilyMan
My tip is: Don't worry, be happy. Follow mfg. recommendations until 600, and then let 'er loose. You'll go paranoid otherwise...
I got my new car with 276 miles on it. The dealership drove it 2 hours to transfer from a sister lot. Plus it was test-driven at the sister lot. Test drivers don't usually know about the break-in period. Heck, my salesman urged me to push it when I test drove their vehicle they had for sale. That's why I didn't want to buy that one.
I'm noticing (with 1100 miles) that the car seems to suddenly slow down a second when I punch the gas pedal, and then the car takes off.
#28
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I followed the racing beat procedure and was glad i did. it went by quickly.
I drove the car home from Columbus OH (over 500 miles) the day I bought it. Just varied RPM and speeds by shifting between 4th and 6th. Could still hit 85 while following the RB procedure!
I drove the car home from Columbus OH (over 500 miles) the day I bought it. Just varied RPM and speeds by shifting between 4th and 6th. Could still hit 85 while following the RB procedure!
#29
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Originally Posted by G-ReX
I did the Racing Beat recs and it wasn't bad at all. I put miles on 50% faster than my old Probe GT, though. :D
I kept that Probe for 13 years, so if doing the conservative break-in keeps the seals a bit longer, it's worth it.
If the car had quite a few test drive miles on it already, all the rest of us lunatics have already revved the heck out of it, so it may be a moot point.
I kept that Probe for 13 years, so if doing the conservative break-in keeps the seals a bit longer, it's worth it.
If the car had quite a few test drive miles on it already, all the rest of us lunatics have already revved the heck out of it, so it may be a moot point.
#30
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There are two schools of thought when it comes to breaking in reciprocating engines with very little room for wiggle between 'em:
Drive 'em like you stole 'em (no, not borrowed from above, but heard elsewhere)
-or-
BABY THAT THING!
I've always believed in a mix.
How does that apply to a Mazda rotary?
I don't believe that it does. The wearing parts are the apex and side seals. They bed in quickly and are wearing in parts- they aren't subject to the same forces, and bed in quickly.
Just drive the car according to the recommendations in the manual- and everything'll be fine- compression won't be any better or worse than any other way. Bearings? There weren't really any high spots to begin with (modern manufacturing techniques: having rebabbited and filed several bearings, I'm glad for modern techniques!) but it's nice for shafts to get "used" to the bearings on which they sit- but I can't imagine that to be very long.
After reading and thinking about it, though- the owner's manual recommendations for break-in follow all recommendations I've ever heard about simply driving: don't rev the engine very high for very long (fast engine wear in ALL cases!). Don't do full throttle launches (unless one likes to replace clutch disks/flywheels). Drive gingerly (better gas mileage, don't-cha know?)
On an engine like this, break-in isn't that big of a deal. Now, the Moto Guzzi's I've owned, or even the BMW R1200RT...
Drive 'em like you stole 'em (no, not borrowed from above, but heard elsewhere)
-or-
BABY THAT THING!
I've always believed in a mix.
How does that apply to a Mazda rotary?
I don't believe that it does. The wearing parts are the apex and side seals. They bed in quickly and are wearing in parts- they aren't subject to the same forces, and bed in quickly.
Just drive the car according to the recommendations in the manual- and everything'll be fine- compression won't be any better or worse than any other way. Bearings? There weren't really any high spots to begin with (modern manufacturing techniques: having rebabbited and filed several bearings, I'm glad for modern techniques!) but it's nice for shafts to get "used" to the bearings on which they sit- but I can't imagine that to be very long.
After reading and thinking about it, though- the owner's manual recommendations for break-in follow all recommendations I've ever heard about simply driving: don't rev the engine very high for very long (fast engine wear in ALL cases!). Don't do full throttle launches (unless one likes to replace clutch disks/flywheels). Drive gingerly (better gas mileage, don't-cha know?)
On an engine like this, break-in isn't that big of a deal. Now, the Moto Guzzi's I've owned, or even the BMW R1200RT...
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