Just thought people would like to know that i recently had my 2004 RX8 (12/2003 build) engine compression tested as I'm close to running off the bumper to bumper warranty. My compression test came back 110-120psi in both chambers, which is optimum compression as I understand. Most of the engine replacements appear to come from my vintage, so it was refreshing to see my engine test well.

I've never really had any "engine" Issues other than a rough idle which was likely more the mounts than the engine. I have run royal purple 5W-30 in the car since about 3,000 mi. I also have premixed when on the track but not usually when daily driving. The car is my daily driver so it sees alot of stop and go traffic, although I do punch the engine a fair amount as well for fun. Houston is also not exactly a cool environment (summers in the high 90's low 100's), but we do have humidity, unlike Las Vegas.

given the oiling system issues that have contributed to the problem, I can say if it was my getting on the engine, the Royal Purple, or the likely combination that have helped protect my engine.

Anyways just thought I'd post a "my engine is running great thread" to counter some of the negative press of late.

 

Great to hear. Maybe I should switch to Royal Purple (from Castrol 5W-20 GTX).

 

Even though I'm a 2005, it's nice to hear some good news with that kinda mileage. Your humidity in Houston is similiar to mine in Florida(East Coast), so that's good news!
Still running 5w20, but will probably go to 5w30 here on next oil change. Think I'll stay Dino though. Don't turn this into another oil thread guys, just commenting on his use of syn.

 

where did ya do your compression test ?

I want to try mine as well (not until Im back to nyc, Im typing this at hong kong airport going to tokyo soon, free wifi rules !)

 

Just to add a counter to this - A proper compression check will be for each chamber of each rotor, yielding 6 numbers.
Since this check is in PSI and without a relevant RPM number, we don't know how the check was run and using what equipment.
A motor with a single blown apex seal could actually return numbers this high (with a lot of ifs, but it is possible) if an accumulative compression test was done with a mechanical gauge.

 

Good to see. Without exception all of the Atlanta/Southeast bunch that I am familiar with (more than a dozen) that regularly excercise their 8's have not had a single serious occurance of engine trouble. The ones maintained by my shop are on Valvoline 5/20. Seems that good maintanence and plenty of hard excercise pays off.

 

True but it would run like ****. I'll test mine with the digital for comparison next oil chg. Regardless, the dudes car makes him happy so leave him alone.

 

Very true........good point......I had forgotten about that, but at least to what was tested or reported it looked good.........and he's not running poorly. So at least some bright news.

 

No. I refuse! It is much more fun to pick on Alan than leave him alone!
He likes it, anyway...

 

I had a compression test done this past Thurs. Brillo can you post yours in a simillar format? I have 98,000 miles in my motor and the lower RPM I think was do to having a original starter. While on the low end of ok it does show things are not that bad with my nearly 100,000 mile motor (5/2003 build).

Rotor #1 93.125 / 92.275 / 92.085 @ 205 RPM
Rotor #2 92.075 / 94.105 / 95.120 @ 204 RPM

 

I had my dealer do my test. I don't have a print out, the device they had at the dealer couldn't produce a print out so all I got were certified #'s from the service manager.

In hindsight, MM is correct, its best to have reading for both chambers. Next time I feel the need to test, I may try another shop that I think has an old school compression tester. I had my car at the dealer getting my steering issue resolved so it was more convenient to do it while they had it.

I also should point out i get pretty good mileage as well compared to most, about 16/17 city and 23/24 hwy on average.

It wouldn't be a thread with out MM picking on me

 

what what what? my turn to pick a nit-

the dealer has the proper tool to give you the proper nubers- he cant report them any otehr way? wtf is he smoking?

his wds(whatever the correct letters are for the new one they are using) reports the numbers for each chamber and the largest difference between chambers for each rotor and the largest difference between rotor 1 and 2. thats what the test reports. how did he test it?

 

Be sure to vote in the "has your engine been replaced?" poll: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=122843

 

Just like the girls in your avatar?

No I have nothing constructive to add to this thread.

 

Well, not quite like that...

 

Rotary compression test can't be done on MDS. Digital, tape/graph, or WDS have to be dusted off.

 

You know what I know. Its a new Retail Rev Store, so I don't know what equipment he had. I found out sorta after the did the test that they couldn't print out the screen, I was a little miffed, so I made them certify the numbers and add them to work order summary. I'm sure they have what ever digital device they use when testing cars that fail the recall procedure. I've got a good relationship with these guys and they have always given me good service and the benifit of the doubt, so I highly doubt they would lie to me about my numbers.

 

doh!! hope they didnt get rid of their wds like many shops did!

 

I'm at 33K on mine, maybe I'll do this next time mine's in the shop.

 

Wife's 2004 AT with 84,000 miles

8.1, 8.2, 8.1 @ 267rpm
8.2, 8.4, 8.2 @ 266rpm

But the dealer says she needs a new engine.

The car has been running flawless for the past 11 days with 4 tanks of fuel through it.

 

Yeah, that is pretty low, but still above minimum for that RPM.

 

perhaps it faile dthe Vacuum test- that is really their determiner now.

 

The process for the recall doesn't even list a compression check as part of the test.
All they are supposed to do (besides all of the usual crap about the WDS/eMDCS, checking for stickers, etc) is drive the car twice for 20 minutes - once after running the OMP on full for 5 minutes - and look for a serious drop in idle (or stalling) or a serious loss of power. Then they run a vacuum test with a special rig comprised of a MAP sensor and an interface to the BARO sensor that they just check for output voltage. They don't even tell the techs what a "normal" voltage should be for that test. They make them call the tech line.

What I found interesting about that test is the complete lack of smoke from the car while the OMP is on full at idle! That should tell you something about how little oil the seals are getting by design!

 

What's up with that Avitar? ^^

 

I don't know if the question has been asked before...but, damn Maniac, how the hell are you always getting these great shots for your avitars? Do you produce adult videos or something?