Broken clutch pedal clevis/linkage (with fix)
#1
Broken clutch pedal clevis/linkage (with fix)
Hey guys. I know a lot of people have the problem where the spot welds on the clutch pedal mounting bracket break causing everything to go to hell, but I couldn't find anyone who had the same problem I did. But I'm going to post the pictures and the solution here.
Preface: This probably won't happen to a stock engine car, I'm running a V8 swap with an aftermarket Wilwood master cylinder that ran out of travel before my pedal hit the stop. That being said nothing is impossible.
I was shifting fairly hard at the time and being pretty hard on the clutch, next thing I know the pedal goes to the floor and I'm on the highway doing 70 mph and have to coast off an exit into a well lit parking lot to try to do a temporary fix.
Here is what happened to the clevis. (this picture was taken after I was replacing it)
I was able to climb up under the dash upside down and get a hose clamp over the split just so it could hold together so I could drive it very carefully home.
Then I was able to find a part on the great McMaster-Carr website that had pretty much identical dimensions from the pin to the threads, same diameter for the pin, pretty much same inside width for the pedal, and it was a much stronger machined part. Full disclosure, I'm not sure if the threads are the same pitch (not sure if the rod is 8x1.25 or 8x1.5), but my master cylinder threaded rod was all screwed up from it breaking so i chased the threads in both pieces with a tap and die so everything would go together easily. The new part also uses a nice quick release pin that just clips over the rod end itself instead of having a cotter pin.
Here are the two parts next to each other.
New part has been on for a couple months now and I haven't had any issues with it. I'd be willing to bet I'll blow out my master cylinder or break the shaft before I have any problems with this new rod end.
Has anyone else seen the stock stamped part fail before, or am I the only one breaking weird stuff?
Preface: This probably won't happen to a stock engine car, I'm running a V8 swap with an aftermarket Wilwood master cylinder that ran out of travel before my pedal hit the stop. That being said nothing is impossible.
I was shifting fairly hard at the time and being pretty hard on the clutch, next thing I know the pedal goes to the floor and I'm on the highway doing 70 mph and have to coast off an exit into a well lit parking lot to try to do a temporary fix.
Here is what happened to the clevis. (this picture was taken after I was replacing it)
I was able to climb up under the dash upside down and get a hose clamp over the split just so it could hold together so I could drive it very carefully home.
Then I was able to find a part on the great McMaster-Carr website that had pretty much identical dimensions from the pin to the threads, same diameter for the pin, pretty much same inside width for the pedal, and it was a much stronger machined part. Full disclosure, I'm not sure if the threads are the same pitch (not sure if the rod is 8x1.25 or 8x1.5), but my master cylinder threaded rod was all screwed up from it breaking so i chased the threads in both pieces with a tap and die so everything would go together easily. The new part also uses a nice quick release pin that just clips over the rod end itself instead of having a cotter pin.
Here are the two parts next to each other.
New part has been on for a couple months now and I haven't had any issues with it. I'd be willing to bet I'll blow out my master cylinder or break the shaft before I have any problems with this new rod end.
Has anyone else seen the stock stamped part fail before, or am I the only one breaking weird stuff?
Last edited by Dpierce; 07-24-2019 at 12:27 AM.
#2
Without a pedal stop (or the floorboard in typical RX8 standard configuration) that part isn’t designed to take that kind of loading. Going to venture that you’re unique and special on this one. You need to install a pedal stop before you tear something else up like the MC. It’s not designed to be bottomed out internally like that either.
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