I searched and did not find anything, but i'm having issues with the A/C. Its a 2004 with 58000 miles on it and I live in East Texas which is hot and humid. When the car is idle the A/C does not work, it blows a little cool air but hardly any at all. Now when I'm moving the A/C does work, but it's still pretty weak. After I would say about 20-30minutes of driving the a/c sucks major power from the car, i'm actually losing speed up hills. This may be a simple fix as to just recharging the A/C, or it could be the compressor locking up? For now I have refrained at using the A/C until I take it in. I just wanted a few opinions first as to what this may be.

Thanks, Doug

 

i have this exact same problem... tuning in for some answers.

 

its probaly just a charge needed

 

Sounds like it's time to put the gauges on it.

 

I am in louisiana and the A/C sucks at idle and slow speeds, You need to a least rev the engine to 1500-2K to get the compressor turning fast enough to cool at all.

Go to the store and get a thermometer that reads to 0 degrees with a metal probe, you can find them at a parts store too.

The same kind you would use to fry a turkey or check meat temps if the parts store doesn't have one.

The temp should get to 35-45 degrees while driving on a good road with no frequent stops.

If not you need to check the pressures of the system.

 

Another way of checking to see if simply a recharge is all you need, is to get an a/c tester. you can pick one up at your local auto store. The tester will basically tell you if you need a recharge or if something else is the problem. If in the end all you need is a recharge, you can buy a recharge bottle also at the auto store and recharge it yourself. This will save you $300 bucks or so in the end.

 

I'd try to get some gauges hooked up but def could be a low charge.....also when you're not moving you are not getting as good as airflow across the condenser so it won't be as cold....

 

hrm, what do you guys mean by hooking up gauges? I have not dealt with this before so i'm kinda niave to what to do with the a/c. I know for sure that a/c is not blowing out 35-45 degree air lol, its lucky if its 60 when moving, The power loss is so noticable also, I can actually feel when the compressor turns on when driving. You guys know where the point in the line is for the recharge access is at?

 

hooking up gauges lets u see the pressures in the high and low side and see if they're in spec.....for recharge side you want to use the low side of the system which the serviced port is behind the intake manifold!

 

Okay.......you could need a recharge, but.............just for the heck of it.....try the following and then after a couple of days report back on any results you see or feel.

1.) Hold the Front Defrost button and the Air Intake Selector button at the same time. Don't let them go until step 4.

2.) Turn the key to "ACC" for three seconds.

3.) Turn the key to "ON" for three seconds.

4.) The rear defrost button will flash 3 times. You can now let go of the buttons in step one and turn the key back to off.

NOTE: If vehicle's battery dies or cables are removed, the programming will not be retained and must be performed again.



No promises, but what do you have to lose?

 

If your loosing seped up hills check your cat. It is bad.

 

I got the A/C recharged and they put dye in it to find out where the leaks are, cause refrigerant just doesnt disappear out of a sealed line. The car blows air much cooler now, still when idle it seems weak on the a/c side. I guess its just a sucky system as others have said. I tried what you mentioned mazurfer, and it would not work. Never a blink 3 times. It cant be the Cat, It only lost power when the A/C compressor kicked on, I have not been out driving far distances yet to see a loss in power, but so far it seems to be good, I think the compressor was working overtime because of low refridgerant.

 

how'd you do the recharge?

 

Hopefully this solves your problem

 

I took it into a local shop, they did it for $53.00, and they put dye in it. I figured it was worth it, a kit will cost you $30.00 to do it yourself. Do not take it to the stealership, they wanted $180.00 just to recharge it, laugh.

 

^how low on refrigerant were you?

 

as far as I know a recharge kit with A cheap gauge cost less than 20 bux.

and thats all u need. it comes with UV dye too ... 15 minutes job ...

even better, if u already have gauge. Just put a bottle of UV dye 134a into it ... 8.99 plus tax ...

if u want colder AC, u should warp your A/C line(the one above your engine) with insulation foam. you can get those from Home Depot.

 

Another quick check is to make sure the condenser and evaporator coils are clean. Simply put, they act like your radiator (a heat exchanger), and if they are matted, clogged, etc it will seriously effect the efficiency of your system.

 

hey mazurfer, thanks for the post. I had similar problems with my a/c. The compressor seemed to kick in and out alot. The air never really got cold. It started after mazda put my new motor in a few weeks ago. I followed your instructions and the problem went away instantly. what exactly did the reprogram do to my a/c?

 

When they put in your new motor, your components got out of synch with each other. By follwing mazurfers instructions, you reset your ECU which allowed for the a/c components and all other components in the car to be synched back together.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...54&postcount=8

a start..

but what do i know..

beers

 

my rx 8 the ac dont turn on but i can hear the compressor lick in but no air blows thru the vents some one plz help meeeeee


aLso my blinkers dont turn on cuds it be the fuse?