I have been fighting the AC on my 05 RX 8 for a couple of years now. Started with a rock hitting the Condenser. We replaced it. Took it to an AC shop to get it serviced. After a week and several attempts to get it to take freon the pump blew......We think the shop did something wrong but cant prove it. We replaced the pump. tried again to get it to take freon. no dice. Ok plugged line? replaced those, Well at this point we are two summers with no AC and this winter we found the HVAC control **** was messed up not allowing heat. I replaced it now works fine, thought maybe that was the problem with it not taking freon... Did the AC reset Via the computer control thing in the radio. No dice. I can get it to take about half a can. The pump kicks on, Starts to take freon and then just stops.

Is there a process I need to use to get it to take freon?

OH BTW I have searched the S@#t out of the forum and the internet so If i missed something, just link it I am already frustrated enough with it.

 

You may have a leak somewhere. Could be from the previous work or from the repeated recharging of freon. Anyway, before you start changing stuff, knowing you have recharged and recharged the system. Try pressing the low pressure valve as if you would release air from your over inflated tires.

If you hear pressure escape, you still have A/C refrigerant in your system. However, if you don't hear any, next step is finding that leak. You stated that the A/C compressor clutch kick in after a recharge, we know that component still work because you just memtioned it replaced it after it "blew". But we cannot rule it out, specially if it was a refurbished item or a used part from another car.

The best way to look for a leak is to use freon with the dye that appears through using U/V light. It will not matter how long the A/C compressor clutch kicks in, the dye will stay where it is leaking. The fittings where the O rings are, also deteriorate rather quickly due to the high temperatures our engine produce. Just hope the leak isn't somewhere in the blower, which is located inside the dashboard.

 

Almost all r134a system is charged with PAG oil, which is complete garbage, it acidic, it absorbs moisture like nutz and becomes sludge afterwards to mess everything up. Most AC shops are loaded with idiots just like dealerships. They will only go by the book and refused(or too dumb) to do anything else.

Where r u located? If u are close to nyc, u can stop by my house and i will fix ur ac for u, i can completely clean it out for u, vacuum and recharge everything.

Nm, i just noticed ur location, first u gotta find the leak, ac compressor died for a reason, most of time its because ac shop does stupid ****. I fixed a 20 yr old car that has the system wide open for years and i spent 3 days to flush and clean and flush and clean, and finally fixed it and it had coldest air ever

 

thank you guys for all the info. I used the dye on a previous test and the system does not leak, I can press the needle valve on the low side and get a hiss. I thought of that too. The shop replaced the blow off valve on the pump. Then later in the the day after we returned with a locked up pump they couldnt tell each other what the head pressures were on the pump. So i beleive that is what blew the original pump.

Nycgps - since your in NY and its a bit far for me to drive on a weekend, how would I clean the system as you suggest?

 

you might wanna disassemble all hose, leave the heater core alone and compressor alone for now.

first use compressed air and blow everything out, make sure u use a rag to cover the other opening cuz oil will come out and those PAG oil is bad for your car's paint. then you can either soak and clean all hose with HD degreaser, then of course use water to make sure all HD degreaser away. then Blow dry everything with compressed air again, then finally, use either Acetone or one of those spray u can get at auto parts store for cleaning AC lines to clean everything, again blow dry it after.

For compressor itself, flush it with fresh oil, if u wanna stay with PAG, use PAG, fill it up with oil at inlet, then roll the clutch with ur hand for couple of turns, make sure u cover the holes with a rag because it will compress and its gonna squirt out. after that, turn it up side down and keep turning the clutch to get rid of all the crap oil. repeat the process for another 3-5 times until you are comfortable that it's completely clean.

for the heater core, u might wanna just blow all the old oil away first, get one of those ac cleaner spray to run thru it, then dry it again with air.


then assemble everything with completely new HNBR rings, u can get a load of those for cheap At ur local parts store, comes in all different size, just use the one that matches the size of your old rings. coat them with a bit of oil and reinstall everything.

before u put the compressor back, fill the compressor with 1/2 the oil capacity of the system, i forgot the exact amount, but u get the idea.

use a new condenser if u can, cuz it comes with new drier, I noticed u can buy the replacement drier material, but i never tried to open the stock condenser up to replace it. oh, fill the other 1/2 oil into your new condenser, put it back together, pull 29.5mg of vacuum. hold it for at least couple of hours. if no leaks, charge it back to spec, done.