vtfanatic69

So tonight I began my attempt at painting my brake calipers and the inner part of my rotor. I also just wanted to tidy up my wheels and such. Well I went to the rear caliper to remove it, and found one of the bolts is partially stripped. It was also incredibly stubborn. I tried to remove the bolt with the socket wrench, but it just would not budge. Is my only option to take it to a shop and have them loosen the bolts with an impact wrench? Also if they cannot remove it how do I get the bolt off?

G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY

iTrader: (8)

you dont have enough strength to break the caliper bolt so you think its a good idea to take it to a shop and pay to have it broken loose?

why dont you think about it for a second, go to autozone and buy a real tool, then go back and accomplish the task. then pretend you didnt admit to being a wuss .. jk :P kinda..

vtfanatic69

Ok, a little harsh, but thanks for the reply. Being 17 money is kind of an object, but do you think it will be more expensive to take it to a shop than buy the tool myself? I will buy it if so, but I want to make sure it's the most logical thing to do.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

....and don't forget, that because the bolt is on the inboard side of the caliper, lefty-loosey becomes RIGHTY-loosey!!

G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY

iTrader: (8)

lol a shop is gonna try to pull some diagnostic **** on you and you should have proper tools .

being 17 is not an excuse, if you are gonna own an expensive sports car you need to throw that line out the window.

vtfanatic69

Ya thanks for the directions on loosening lol. I had to think about it for a second when I first started. I guess if I can't get the bolt off I'll go hit up the local autozone tomorrow. Thanks for the replies.

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

if you dont know,

this is the proper tool. its called a breaker bar. use it, and it wont be a problem, especially when remembering its righty loosey because its facing away from you.

vtfanatic69

I have never seen that, but judging by the name, it's the right toll for me. They should sell that at autozone right?

Also I was able to get the front calipers loose so those are ready for painting in the morning.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I've had to use a breaker bar before on the caliper bolt.
But don't go out and get the longest breaker bar you can find (I think Autozone has a 24" length bar).
Remember that you need to use it in the wheel well, so take that into consideration.

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

Check Sears too.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the 'zone typically stocks 18" and 24" breaker bars. 18" is plenty (and if it isn't, time for the gym).

I had to recently use a breaker on the upper differential fluid nut. It happens.

vtfanatic69

I picked up the 18" one and it worked like a charm. Calipers are coming along fine now, thanks everyone.

Razz1

WHAT!

You didn't buy a new bolt first?

Don't put that old one back in there.

vtfanatic69

Here's an update of the first one done

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

looks good. did you fully take it off, disconnect the brake fluid line and all that?

where are you located?

i've reused the bolt before, why is that bad razz?

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Hey, looks just like mine. Nice.

vtfanatic69

I just slid it off the rotor, then masked off everything that could get hit by overspray. I used a steel brush on a drill to get all the brake dust off, the used a brake cleaner to get any residue. Then I did three coats.

I also wonder why I can't use the same bolt. Please explain

Also, I am having enormous trouble putting the caliper on the rotor for my second wheel. I know people say use a c lock to compress the brake piston, but I have no idea how to do this. Can anyone help?

Razz1

You said the bolt was stripped.

vtfanatic69

Oh yes I swapped it out. The guy I bought my car from had parts lying around and he had a replacement of the right size. I was worried for a second you meant all the unscrewed bolts were unstable.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I use a C-clamp to compress the piston back.
This will only work for the front caliper, don't try it on the rears!!!

And make sure you remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before compressing the piston.
This will allow the fluid to be pushed back into the reservoir.
So you might want to have a rag handy in case the fluid pours out from the top.
But if you didn't change the brake pads, then you shouldn't need to compress the piston that much.

vtfanatic69

Ya my dad says he knows the c clamp way to do it. I'll let him do it then. Ya for the rears i'll either have to find the tool or get a little more creative.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Then your dad probably knows how to use needle nose pliers on the rears.
My dad was pretty "old school" too.

vtfanatic69

Haha I asked him and he does indeed.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Autozone also has a universal tool for compressing the pistons. It's basically a "socket cube" with pins on all sides to mate with a variety of brakes.

vtfanatic69

Does this tool you mentioned work with the rear calipers as well?