RPIRX-8

Well, I've read all the threads with this issue on the forum. I basically need to know what my options are here.

Currently getting a turbo installed along with a lot of other things (oil coolers, radiator, etc etc). We went to start the car on Saturday for the first time in about 6 weeks, car won't start. Security light is blniking rapidly so we know its an issue with the security system. Check all fuses etc and none are blown, car is getting power (tried my new Braille battery and the old battery from the TSB) so we know thats not the problem. Flatbed the car to the dealer today (Wener in Manchester, NH). They plug the car into WDS and say it can't communicate with the ECU. At this point they offer no further assistance and say "cya". At this point I'm trying to assess what my options are. AS I see it

1. Call MNAO and get them to assist (willing to pay for what needs done, not looking for freebie)
2. Send ECU to Racing Beat to have them do the race flash which I hear disables the security.
3. Buy a new ECU and immobilizer halo and get my keys reprogrammed.

Can anyone chime in with their thoughts or additional options (or what they think the problem is)?

thanks

expo1

I would think that before you try #2 & 3 you try and find out what happend to the first ECM. It would suck to have a replacement ECU damaged again by the car. Even though Mazda claims they can't communicate with the ECU they might be able to tell if the right amount of power is getting to it? Or if there is anything else up with the electrical system.

RPIRX-8

This is my thought as well. So far all efforts to find that out have failed. The only cause I can think of is that the ECU was without power for over 6 weeks, and somehow that tripped the system? But many folks have stored their cars all winter (including myself) for longer than 6 weeks and not had this problem. At a loss at this point.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

There are two fuses, the main ECU fuse under the hood, and the 'room' fuse in the footwell. I know VERY well that the security light will flash when one is damaged.

You have to re-trace all the steps you did, to find which wire has been damaged etc. Obviously, it wasn't the turbo that did it - it was something electrical.....Turbos need gauges, gauges need power, the best place to get it is the Acc and Room fuses in that fusebox - you can see where to start.

S

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Probably an issue with the aftermarket engine management harness.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Check the ECU plugs...

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

yeah - would be worth unplugging them all then plug them back in again ........

RPIRX-8

We did just that and it worked. ECU is now back online. New issue is surging idle and stalling. Checking for vacuum leaks hasn't turned up anything. Worried its my engine, but it was fine before the install.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

the surging could be just your ECU re-learning . It may go away after a few days - hopefully .

RPIRX-8

yup, hoping thats what it is. At this point we are driving the car for fear its somethign else. Going to do a CAN scan to make sure all the sensors are functioning and the ECU isn't getting any bad info.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I store my car in my garage for over 9-10 weeks (trip to Asia, got alot of stuff for my car, will post up later)

yesterday I turn her back on, ok it seems fine, I left the gas on low b4 I left, so I drove her to mobil and gave her some gas, then funny things happen.

Start - engine w0000mmmmm ... and died
Start again - engine w000000m .... and died again.
Start ..... push her a bit (gas pedal down) .... and died again
Start ..... ok normal, but the idle was jumping all around ....

I guess I left her alone for too long and its complaining now .... heh, took her out for a spin today, no more idling issues.

RPIRX-8

Thats pretty much exactly whats happening. They did some more research and now think the immobilizer is shutting off the car because the key is not registered. Apparently the manual and diagrams say stalling and a specific voltage being reported somewhere are signs the key isn't registered anymore. I will find out today. I wonder if we just drove it around it would return to normal? problem is, car isn't tuned yet, and its only been without power for 6ish weeks.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Nope.
The solution is, forgot to point it out 2 days ago :

- I pull my MAF out, cleaned it, put it back on. -

no more funny idle, everything back to normal.

Dont ask me why. I've been driving it happy for 2 days. no Stalling, nothing.

Zoom Zoom

I mean if its the immobilizer problem, your should not be able to start your car at all.

ECU dont need any battery to keep its program, its all stored in Flash Rom. you can leave it off for probably 10 years and it will still be there.

So just go ahead, buy a bottle of MAF cleaner like 3-5 bux, take your MAF out and spary the CRAP out of it. put it back. and see what happens.

RPIRX-8

Thanks man, I will try that one. The previous issue happened to be an internal fault code in the ECU. The dealer was able to read and clear it with WDS. Funny thing is, the code did not throw a CEL and a scantool did not pick up the fault.

Now we can start the car but the idle is wild and all over the place. When you rev beyond a certain rpm, the drive by wire takes over and wildly fluctuates the rpms. Maybe I'll have them clean the MAFS.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Dont be lazy and clean it yourself !

pop the hood, take the MAF out, take the maf cleaner and spray the crap outa it, let ie sit couple of minutes, put it back and go zoom zoom !

RPIRX-8

Just cleaned the MAFS and the car starts and idles fine now. Now we are getting a CEL which is "high MAFS voltage" code. The MAFS is outputting about 12 volts right now. We are hoping this isn't because its being overrun but because its a bad sensor.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I hope you use the right spray. and its all dry up before you reinstall it.

You didnt touch anything on it did you? What I did was I hold it maybe a feet away to spray.

I *cleaned* my MAF like 4-5 times already. no problems