So i have the greddy with the emangae ultimate stock tune, aem cold air and catless midpipe. in a 3-6 if i wot at like 4000 rpm im boosting 7 lbs and the car doesnt accelerate at all just holds a steady speed. I hear like a whistling noise witch kind of sounds like a boost leak. could a leak cause this? My cobb gets in Monday i am hoping the problem is purely a bad tune.


If any one has any input it would be much appreciated.

 

theres going to be quite a few more info we are going to need, but ill start:
do you have a air/fuel/ratio gauge? if so what are your afr's when the concern happens?
you said you have a stock tune on the greddy emanage? does that mean you just hooked it up and using the base map greddy provides? if so please stop driving the car into boost! when i had the emanage ultimate with the base map it ran really unsafe lean..

 

+1 with what greg said
you should not be going into positive manifold pressure with the base greddy tune...it's crap...lot's of blown motors from using it

check all your couplers and vacuum lines too just in case
what is your warm idle vac numbers?

 

No AFR gauge yet, I ordered a Cobb I'm about to install Monday. The car pushes only 4-5psi (gauge confirmed). -18in vacuum at idle.

 

get a wideband AFR gauge immediately and stay out of boost until you get one, along with the cobb ap and a professional tune

 

I don't think the Cobb is going to play well with the piggyback already on there.. and you more then likely dont have an AP FI tune to go with it yet?

 

Yeah i ordered it from mm so it will get professionally tuned. but im going to take the piggy back out obviously. I planned on using the coob as my AFR gauge, and i guess do a boost leak down test to see if i have a leak.

I was just wondering if anyone knew what the problem could be, i havethe boost turned down too 4lbs until i get the coob

 

Stop going into boost period. Dont do it until you get a real custom tune, you will damage your engine even at that low of boost

 

which leads to the question: how long have you had this setup?

 

Some ultimates were shipped with NO map on them. So not surprising.

 

oh man.........

If you are going WOT at 4000 rpms and your speed stays steady (and rpm for that matter). sounds like an ecu problem. probably with the emanage.

Pretty much, stop driving it until you get the AP. Or take the wastegate actuator off the flapper arm on the turbo so that it stays open so you can't build any boost.

 

stop driving until you get the correct map.

 

Yeah ive been driving on this setup for about 6,000 miles. didn't start having any problems until i put the cold air on about 200 miles ago. But the Cobb will be here tomorrow. so im sticking to the moped till it comes

 

^ Good idea.
6K is a very long time under these circumstances

 

uhm

 

DANGERRX8.jpg?t=1264398596

 

alfy? is that you?

 

You odnt think Alfy is the only one with L33T MSpaint skills do you?

 

Stay out of it until we get your tune straight.
No point in blowing it up before it is setup correctly.

 

I'm not picking on you really Shinka911 but this needs to be used as an example.

You did not say this information in the first post. you did not say

"hey my car was running fine and then i changed "X" and now it won't accelerate. what do you think the problem is?"


which quite frankly happens all to often when people are asking for advice about issues they are having. Then we all have to play 20 questions and quite often the OP (not you shinka) feels insulted when we ask questions about the basics.

So shinka-

You made a drastic change to your FI set- the different intake- just before this problem started to occur. Why do you think its NOT the intake set-up? Have you re-checked all of your work done while installing this new intake to make sure it was done correctly?

also have you checked all surrounding harnesses/hoses etc to insure you didn't break something while installing the intake?

last but not least re-read every post in this thread and follow the advice which has been given by everyone from gregs to MM.

everyone else-

this is a good example to use in the future when considering giving advise to others. make sure you question them thoroughly about any - even very tiny - changes they made to the car, before giving advice. even things they would think are completely unrelated to their issue. often those are the things that are the root.

 

And hope for informed, truthful responses, which are seldom forthcoming.

 

seems like the cobb fixed my problem. but now its cutting out a little at 6000rpms and up and the boost drops drastically from around 8 to 4 rather quickly. Is that the turbo being out flowed?

 

wait.....are you using a base map? I hope not....stay out of boost till MM tells you in the calibration process

 

so now you have the cobb ap...please tell me you have it tuned for your setup?
some how i doubt you have and if your running a base map again please do not take your car into boost until its tuned

I can tell you from personal experience

 

the base map is probably wicked rich...its not a performance tune...its merely a starting point for MM. Gather the requested data and send it to him. NO BOOSTING!