Check Engine light
#1
Check Engine light
OH NO! My Check engine light cam e on when I started my car this past week, I figured maybe I could drive it off, I drove a total of maybe an hour and its still there.
It has gotten cold and I didn't start the car for a little over two weeks, and admittedly I did run the starter for a little after it started, I was distracted. During the start up it didn't start all that rough.
Anyone have clues as to what is wrong? Or should I just take it in to get looked at?
It has gotten cold and I didn't start the car for a little over two weeks, and admittedly I did run the starter for a little after it started, I was distracted. During the start up it didn't start all that rough.
Anyone have clues as to what is wrong? Or should I just take it in to get looked at?
#2
Without you telling us what code is under the CEL we have no idea. It could be any one on the CEL list. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rx-8-technical-info-cel-codes-pcm-pin-list-collision-guide-26291/
(This is a sticky in this very subforum)
So i'm just going to guess that your car is on fire.
Get it pulled for free at an autoparts store and come back. Or buy a reader for less than the diagnostics price of a dealer.
(This is a sticky in this very subforum)
So i'm just going to guess that your car is on fire.
Get it pulled for free at an autoparts store and come back. Or buy a reader for less than the diagnostics price of a dealer.
#3
I'll probably get flamed for helping despite the lack of a code or a search, but...
If the light came on as soon as the engine started, it's most likely the evaporative system, and the most likely culprit is the gas cap.
So there's probably no need to fret. But there is a need to get the code read. Just as soon as they put the fire out.
Ken
If the light came on as soon as the engine started, it's most likely the evaporative system, and the most likely culprit is the gas cap.
So there's probably no need to fret. But there is a need to get the code read. Just as soon as they put the fire out.
Ken
#4
Got it read today:
Autozone says
Definition:
Cylinder 1, misfire condition detected
Probable cause:
Lean air/fuel ratio
Weak ignition system
Engine mechanical condition
Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
Help please...
Autozone says
Definition:
Cylinder 1, misfire condition detected
Probable cause:
Lean air/fuel ratio
Weak ignition system
Engine mechanical condition
Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
Help please...
#8
Dodging those Corollas
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,637
Likes: 7
From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
yeah no problem, i mean your car isn't huffing and puffing and making all sorts of weird noises right? You only got ONE misfire, which could happen out of the blue, but like I said, good chance that your coils and/or plugs are going out.
When was the last time you changed coils? How bout plugs?
When was the last time you changed coils? How bout plugs?
#9
car's under 30K miles. Best f my knowledge is neither have been changed. I asked the shop to change the plug a few hundred miles back and they said 'they weren't due to be changed'.
I have to wait a week or so before I"m back at my home dealer, I mean I can find a dealer but I'm always paranoid when new people touch my car.
I have to wait a week or so before I"m back at my home dealer, I mean I can find a dealer but I'm always paranoid when new people touch my car.
#10
Dodging those Corollas
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,637
Likes: 7
From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
plugs and coils can be changed yourself, not too difficult. You should start searching on change intervals of enthusiasts here on the forum. I'm from Canada, and our manual guideline is 56,000 km for spark plugs, and NO MENTION OF COILS EVER. Coils are usually the first to go before plugs.
Usually change them with your plugs for best long term results.
Usually change them with your plugs for best long term results.
#11
During this week you have before the dealership, I suggest you search the forums to learn a bit more about the car.
The issue that you are experiencing is very, VERY common, and could have been found with a simple search (use the google link in my signature for a more efficient way of searching, if you're having trouble with the forum search bar).
The issue that you are experiencing is very, VERY common, and could have been found with a simple search (use the google link in my signature for a more efficient way of searching, if you're having trouble with the forum search bar).
#13
I'll even give you a great reason to change them:
If you don't, there is a great possibility that the coils, wires, and spark plugs will continue to degrade if you keep driving on it, your engine will suffer from carbon build up, and a really high possibility is that you will lose compression in the engine, and your catalytic convertor will fail.
The failed catalytic convertor will make it hard for you to pass an emissions test if your area has them, and is expensive to replace with a new OEM unit.
The failed engine leads to lack of power, and hard starting issues, causes you not to enjoy driving your car nearly as much, and is even more expensive to replace.
Spark Plugs, wires, and coils can easily be replaced, by you, in your garage, driveway, apartment parking lot, or the parking lot of your local auto parts store, in about 30 minutes. You just need a few simple hand tools, and a couple hundred bucks to replace them.
Its up to you if you want to pay a couple hundred bucks now, or many thousands later.
BC.
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