Clutch pedal adjusting.
#1
Clutch pedal adjusting.
Trying to adjust the slack for the clutch.
I can see the pin that attaches to the U-joint which attaches to the pedal itself. If I recall correctly, the pin is what can be adjusted by positioning the nut on it. I tried going at it with a wrench, but it wouldn't budge (assuming left loosey from the view point where I'm looking directly at the face of the pedal). The more I torque the nut, the more it seems like the pin in the u-joint would snap. It also seems like there are two nuts. I tried both.
Any suggestions?
I can see the pin that attaches to the U-joint which attaches to the pedal itself. If I recall correctly, the pin is what can be adjusted by positioning the nut on it. I tried going at it with a wrench, but it wouldn't budge (assuming left loosey from the view point where I'm looking directly at the face of the pedal). The more I torque the nut, the more it seems like the pin in the u-joint would snap. It also seems like there are two nuts. I tried both.
Any suggestions?
#2
there is one nut for the adjustment, and one as a jamb nut, so you have to loosen the jamb nut, THEN adjust it, and then tighten the jamb nut.
i'm surprised yours is tight, both my cars had come loose and were WAY out of adjustment when i bought em.
i'm surprised yours is tight, both my cars had come loose and were WAY out of adjustment when i bought em.
#5
Mazda has two specs, at the pushrod they want 0.004"-0.02"
OR
at the pedal pad 0.20"-.110"
its not super critical as long as the master gets released all the way, and the clutch disengages all the way. mine is on the tight side too
OR
at the pedal pad 0.20"-.110"
its not super critical as long as the master gets released all the way, and the clutch disengages all the way. mine is on the tight side too
#6
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Yeah, I had seen that spec in the service manual, just wonder why they want so much slop at the pedal. I think that as long as the master cylinder is fully disengaged, it should be fine. I guess I will find out eventually with a failure if I am wrong.
Edit: is the 1/4"-1/2"mentioned before wrong then? I didn't realize a tighter spec was mentioned in the last post.
Edit: is the 1/4"-1/2"mentioned before wrong then? I didn't realize a tighter spec was mentioned in the last post.
Last edited by JCrane82; 12-02-2012 at 11:23 AM.
#7
Yeah, I had seen that spec in the service manual, just wonder why they want so much slop at the pedal. I think that as long as the master cylinder is fully disengaged, it should be fine. I guess I will find out eventually with a failure if I am wrong.
Edit: is the 1/4"-1/2"mentioned before wrong then? I didn't realize a tighter spec was mentioned in the last post.
Edit: is the 1/4"-1/2"mentioned before wrong then? I didn't realize a tighter spec was mentioned in the last post.
my first car, adjusted tight, would chirp from the throwout bearing here and there, its like it would be in contact with the pressure plate still, with no real pressure, but just enough to make noise.
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