Clutch Replacement
#1
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Clutch Replacement
I'm new to the world of manual trannys so bear with me. I heard chirping in the tranny when at idle in neutral so i had Mazda take a look and they said the clutch was just about done. They wanted $1300 so i said **** it, ill have someone else do it(i dont have the tools to do it myself). Other places said about $300 and I could provide the clutch. I was looking at ACT stage 2. My question is, what do I need to buy if I'm upgrading to stage 2? Just the disc or...?
Thanks in advance guys.
Thanks in advance guys.
#3
If they didn't do a teardown to take a look at your clutch and you haven't experienced the clutch slipping I'm pretty sure they're taking you for a ride.
See if the sound goes away when you press on the clutch pedal. It could be the throwout bearing, which is commonly noisy on the 8.
See if the sound goes away when you press on the clutch pedal. It could be the throwout bearing, which is commonly noisy on the 8.
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start your car with the parking brake on. put it into first and let out the clutch. If the engine stalls, your clutch is fine. If the engine keeps running you need a new clutch. If your car suddenly starts moving forward, you need brake pads and probably a new pair of underpants.
(needless to say, do this test somewhere that you won't hit anything if your car does happen to move. Like an empty parking lot.)
(needless to say, do this test somewhere that you won't hit anything if your car does happen to move. Like an empty parking lot.)
#5
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start your car with the parking brake on. put it into first and let out the clutch. If the engine stalls, your clutch is fine. If the engine keeps running you need a new clutch. If your car suddenly starts moving forward, you need brake pads and probably a new pair of underpants.
(needless to say, do this test somewhere that you won't hit anything if your car does happen to move. Like an empty parking lot.)
(needless to say, do this test somewhere that you won't hit anything if your car does happen to move. Like an empty parking lot.)
#8
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i think ill go test it out now haha. thanks for the help guys. And you also think a stage 2 is a waste at this point if i do need one?
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My preference for testing a clutch is to drive up a hill in a reasonably high gear - not lugging, but high enough that you need a decent amount of throttle. Then take a stab at the clutch. If it grabs as soon as it comes back up, fine. If it kind of whizzes before engaging, it's worn.
Ken
#10
Rotary Powered Countryboy
I personally do the e-brake 1st gear test it seems to work but either one running in a high gear trying to pull the vehicle hard up hill will let u know also I believe(correct me if I"m wrong) running at a high rpm in a certain gear u can hear slipping/feel slipping if it's bad....
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I've had the chirping noise for a while now, probably more than 20k now lol, if my clutch goes then i'll replace it right away, but Im not going to worry about it now, have some other things I want to take care of. If you're looking for a good replacement look up BHRs clutch/flywheel combos, a great improvement over stock performance wise as well, and its runs $ the same as a stock setup
#12
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From doing the e-brake test, it definitely grips hard. shuts it right off with a hard jolt. I'll try the other test when i get a chance. Thanks for the help guys. As far as performance clutch/flywheel and whatnot, what do you guys recommend? I should definitely get a clutch kit with flywheel if I'm having it replaced right? Best Brand? Etc.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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I figured while I had a thread, I'd ask. But I'll do a search too. Thanks.
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I havent gotten a light flywheel for the RX8 yet but I concur that light flywheels for performance are one of my favorit mods.
Last one I had was on a 2001 Sentra SE, stock was about 20lbs, fidanza was 9.5lbs.
Made a WORLD of difference in feeling, rev matching and acceleration.
Drivability only took a little getting used to.
The SR20DE on that car only reved to 6500rpm. I can only imagine how much more practical a light flywheel is on a 9500rpm high reving rotary.
Last one I had was on a 2001 Sentra SE, stock was about 20lbs, fidanza was 9.5lbs.
Made a WORLD of difference in feeling, rev matching and acceleration.
Drivability only took a little getting used to.
The SR20DE on that car only reved to 6500rpm. I can only imagine how much more practical a light flywheel is on a 9500rpm high reving rotary.
#16
The "chirping" is the pivot where the slave cylinder plunger meets the clutch fork. All you need to do is put some high-temp grease in the pivot cup and that should take care of the problem........for a short while, anyway. This noise recurs after a while.
To add the grease or otherwise lube the pivot cup you can reach it from the driver's side of the trans from underneath the car.
kersh4w is also correct about your clutch needs/demands. Make sure to exercise due diligence before deciding what you wish to buy.
To add the grease or otherwise lube the pivot cup you can reach it from the driver's side of the trans from underneath the car.
kersh4w is also correct about your clutch needs/demands. Make sure to exercise due diligence before deciding what you wish to buy.
I reached up from underneath and gooped on some grease to the rod that's sticking out and to the entire general area, but the chirping sound is still there.
Same symptoms as mentioned above, chirping at idle in neutral that goes away when the clutch is slightly depressed.
i've got 37K miles on my '05, still on the stock clutch.
thanks!
#17
The Professor
do you happen to have a picture or diagram of where i should be applying grease?
I reached up from underneath and gooped on some grease to the rod that's sticking out and to the entire general area, but the chirping sound is still there.
Same symptoms as mentioned above, chirping at idle in neutral that goes away when the clutch is slightly depressed.
i've got 37K miles on my '05, still on the stock clutch.
thanks!
I reached up from underneath and gooped on some grease to the rod that's sticking out and to the entire general area, but the chirping sound is still there.
Same symptoms as mentioned above, chirping at idle in neutral that goes away when the clutch is slightly depressed.
i've got 37K miles on my '05, still on the stock clutch.
thanks!
#18
I've had this happen on my previous car, and greasin' up the slave cylinder worked, but not on this car.
#19
The Professor
Honestly I wouldn't replace it until the clutch was actually done.
#20
so i took it in this morning and let them hear the chirping while i was in the car. they took it into the shop, and an hour later came out and told me that they were gonna replace the pilot bearing under warranty. hopefully this fixes the problem, should be ready pretty soon.
#21
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#23
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The car is in neutral
Shafts in bearings, and gears, turn
The release bearing is sitting there doing nothing
There is a chirping sound
The clutch is engaged (I know he said 'slightly' but I take it the sound does not come back if he engaged it fully)
All previously turning shafts and gears stop turning
The release bearing is under load and turning
The chirping sound goes away.
I know you said 'IF' but do you mind telling me why you would even bring it up as a possible culprit?
Shafts in bearings, and gears, turn
The release bearing is sitting there doing nothing
There is a chirping sound
The clutch is engaged (I know he said 'slightly' but I take it the sound does not come back if he engaged it fully)
All previously turning shafts and gears stop turning
The release bearing is under load and turning
The chirping sound goes away.
I know you said 'IF' but do you mind telling me why you would even bring it up as a possible culprit?