I am going to need to fill my a/c back with r-134a. Does anyone know if there is a coldest one? I konw it says with booster and all, but maybe pure 134 is the best?

 

134-A is what you need; have you had the system evacuated?

 

No, I need to buy an a/c condenser, then I will have it evacuated. I am assuming a rock or something hit it. I know I need R-134A, but is there a brand that is the coldest that isn't just a gimmick.

 

Nope.

 

It is what it is. There's not a better or worse.

 

R-134A is AC.. there isnt anything colder.. what you can do though, is check your Cabin Air filters to make sure they are clean. depends on how dirty they are. they can rob the cold air.

 

What you can do to gain maybe 1°c during very hot days is insulate the AC pipe above the intake somehow.

 

I don't know how this is done, but you should check on whether you need to add oil to the system. Some is likely to have blown out when the rock made its hole. Since you're in the Navy, I presume you'll do the work at the base hobby shop? Will there be someone around who knows about this stuff? If you go to an AC shop for the evacuation, have them add the R134-A and figure if you need oil.

Ken

 

May I ask where this is at?

 

I will be doing the work in my garage, but if there is someone there that can do the evacuation that would be awesome. I will have to check and see if it can be done there.

 

It is behind the glovebox. PM coming your way

 

thanks lilring, why you not post that on here? I guess it could be on another forum. and a hijack!! lol

 

If you have stuff out, check the parts of the $100 thread in my sig that pertain to the a/c performance. A lot is just making sure the air under the hood goes where it should as well as the line insulation mentioned above.

 

if you are doing this as a one time deal, i suggest u just bring it to a shop and let them handle tne rest, cuz a good 2 stage pump will cost you about 200 and you need to know how to use it. The manifold, new o rings,etc.

If u are in nyc i have all the stuff mentioned. Oh well ...

 

You will need to add oil as Ken suggested, here's a link to the shop manual: http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/

 

I live on a Naval Base and they have almost every tool you could think of at the auto hobby shop, including frame lifts and it runs about $3.50 an hour to rent and the tools are free to use.

 

you just made me want to join the army.

 

Yeah, that's true. But, you have to do most of the work yourself. The staff are mostly civilians who could only give suggestions unless you know someone who could help, a Machinist Mate (I guess) or someone who works at Motor-T. Here's a link I used when I changed my radiator two years ago. EDZRIDE linked it, as well. Heater, Ventilation, and A/C, just search the link and hope it will show you the how-to...

 

They are not allowed to touch the car or work on it, but the one at my old base had a really good retired msgt. He would sit there and tell you step by step what you needed, or explain things even in ways marines could understand.

 

LOL, that's a very true statement.

 

The one here allows them to help you, but most I have been to aren't allowed to touch your car as well. I have been to about 6-7 bases and about 3 of them have actually been able to help me with my vehicles.

 

Does the Mishumoto radiator make any difference in temps?

 

Eh, I can't say... I don't have a gauge that will tell me an accurate reading. It's a tight fit though. Since it's thicker than the OEM, I had to make adjustments on the upper hangers. Besides that, everything fits. Took me six hours to remove the OEM, flush the coolant, and install the Mishimoto.

 

As stated by others, R134A is the only product that should be added.
Stay away from products with boosters and RUN away from any cans that contain leak sealer. In the end these can be very damaging to your system.

 

Also if your RX-8 is older, like my 2004, search the forum for how to "reprogram" the "AC Amplifier". This made a remarkable difference for me.

Another option is to use a heat-blocking window film. Heat that doesn't enter the cabin, doesn't have to be removed by the AC.

Insulation on the floor / transmission tube can also reduce heat-load in the cabin.