Read the whole thread and you will find out (said it more then once). No need to raise font size and make it bold.

When I did the test all 6 faces where around the same (60-65psi @ 240-250rpm). The cranking rpm was probably higher as I had 12v@6amp support during the test.

When I checked the cranking rpm, it was warm with everything installed and with out the support. Didn't check it during the test it self.

So your saying it should still idle with low numbers like this?

Im going to write down the data right now and see what I get.

 

Heaven forbid you clarify Ah, see your mention of it once, my bad. So, a live data scanner with bluetooth, when you say it died are you saying the Bluetooth setup died while you were cranking so you could no longer see the cranking RPM?

 

No I'm saying the car died so It wasn't giving me the data to write down.

Since it doesn't start warm, this gave me the chance to check the cranking rpm with out taking fuses out or plugs.

I just wrote down the data and here it is. This is not on a hot engine but warm. I had to take the readings right before it dies.

Coolant Temp 78*c
Fuel 11.8%
MAF 5.7
RPM 817
Load 41%
STFT1 -.8%
Intake Temp 16*c
Timing -5.0
Throttle 14.1
Volts 14.4v
Boost -7.2--------- We may have a problem here.
o21x2 .8v
Air Temp 11*c
Baro 14.4 psi
LPK 13.2/100km
CATB1S1 618.6
o2S1 EQ 1.0
COMEQR 1.0
AFR 14.9:1 (M)
AFR 14.9:1 (C)
PEDALE 31.4%
PEDALD 20.8%
Fuel Flow 33.6 cc/min
Fuel Flow 2.0 L/hr
TILT (X -1 to -3*c) (Y -1 to -2*c) (Z 87.5*c)

I don't know about VAC with rotary's but in piston engines, should be in the upper teens at idle. -7 VAC at 800rpm seems very low.

Can someone confirm this?

Was just reading and the VAC reading is boost. Thought it was the same. Found that -7 boost is -15-16 VAC. Never heard such a thing but learn something new every day.

 

That is warm enough. That vacuum reading is abysmal but that is at the ECU, typically it is taken manually with a gauge.

I dunno, the tools being used here are not ideal. If you are sure there are no vacuum leaks then you really need to have a proper compression test done with a rotary compression tester.

Very tiny vacuum leaks can keep this engine from idling.

 

Yes it will barely idle with numbers that low...

 

I think I'm going to check all the vacuum lines and sources one more time with carb cleaner and water.

If that doesn't fix the problem I'm just going to start the rebuild.

We all know a dealer test will give me low numbers and they will tell me I need a new motor.

 

it does run, and during the 20 minutes test drive, it never stalled, not once, so yes it drives and runs.

just get a test done.

 

Now what I just read was, mine should do the same.

I'm very leery to spend $100 for something I already now. Yes, I have low compression. I don't think I need a dealer to give me exact numbers of my low compression. What is that going to do for me? I mean, if you can truly give me a good reason why I need exact numbers I will get it done but I don't see the point in it anymore.

I got 3 full days to figure why it dies at idle. If I dont figure it out, the rebuild process will begin. This is what the dealer is going to tell me anyway.

Not trying to be mean. I just don't see the point on having the exact numbers for compression.

I know all 6 faces have around the same numbers. I know that the apex seals are not blown to crap. To the point of rotor or housing failure. Could very well end up this way if I keep driving it but that's not the point.

The dealer wont tell me anything that I don't already know. Unless you tell me they will give me us full info that I truly need. If not, I'm going to keep at it until I rebuild it.

All I'm trying to do is have fun with it to winter. Once winter comes, it is getting rebuilt no matter what compression is at. This is a project for me, not a DD. It will end up with a turbo setup or N2o. Maybe even both.

 

My 2006 RX-8 isn't starting, cranking but not turning over. I had a guy come look at it today and he said that I'm not getting the right compression. Do you have any ideas of how I can fix this and about what it may cost me?

 

Well I can tell you, just having a guy come over and look at it isnt going to tell you low compression results.

Did he bring a tester with him and tested your car for compression?

This thread is about cranking but not starting warm. Now with people that have experienced this say, with low compression it should still start and drive depending on the compression results.

If all six faces are ok, meaning they haven't failed completely, your car should still start. This all depends on the results of other factors too.

Do you have a CEL? When did it start doing this? Last time components were changed, mainly ignition system? What is cranking rpm for the starter?

Many things you should check before jumping into the bad motor department.

 

Honestly, I'm not sure if he had a compression tester with him. He told me he could tell by the sound that it wasn't getting compression. It started last Monday. I had been driving it to work and back (a 5 hour round trip a day) for two weeks. Last weekend we didn't drive it and last Monday morning when my girlfriend tried to start it, it wouldn't turn over. The only things that I changed were the ignition coils. I tested them and the spark plug wires and they were working fine. I'm not sure what a CEL is or the cranking rpm for the starter is. One of the reasons I came on here is cause I'm trying to go the cheapest route before I say, "Ok, the engine is bad." I don't know a whole lot about cars but I do know that these engines don't go bad over night. Could it be the starter or something like that?

 

What is so damn hard about driving down to the dealer and paying $130 to get a real test done?

I swear there's a new thread everyday with the same damn issue.

If you had a broken foot and your buddy came over and said, "Awww naw man just rub some icy hot on dat *** it's fine". Would you listen to him?????

SURVEY SAYS, YES!

 

Owns an RX8, bitches about a $100 dollar test

The future is bright for this one. When all the free fixes don't work, you may have to start spending some money to fix/diagnose the problem. Cheap people really need to stop buying 8's, it would clean up most of the moronic threads on this forum.

 

They are cheap now... Its a cycle.

 

This is the reason why I stop replying,

oh, unless something interesting happens, this will be the last reply.

 

The reason I own an RX8,

I don't just throw over $100 out the window for no reason.

If I were able to just throw away $100, I definitely wouldn't have an RX8.

Here is a video of my vary first build (I was 20 years old). That $100 would fill my bottles for the weekend. With a .42-.48 jet on a wet setup, I would go through 2 10lb in 2 days ( I don't race chump cars).

Those 11.1:1 .020 over forged pistons were over a grand alone. Every $100 helps big time.

 

Cool story...

This still doesn't explain why you haven't gotten a proper test. When your engine finally blows and your internals get destroyed hopefully you'll see the light.

 

to be fair he did say he was just gonna go ahead and rebuild it........ therefore didn't care about the compression test....

 

Thank you,

At least someone read the whole thread.

Here is my last build I have done. Another N2o setup with a b18b in a del sol.

Probably the best looking project I have done.







Del Sol 60 shot VS SRT4 @ 19psi


The project before that. C4 vett, fully built lt1 with a 353 cam. Over 400whp @ 12.8 1/4 mile.


Project before that.
My brother on my bike, Ninja ZX-6R


My fathers old project car I personally worked on. 1 of the first 3 S/C C5 built.
C5 vett, forged stroked LQ9 block 383, water cooled S/C at 10psi with meth. Dynoed over 600whp. Track said no with out a roll cage. Total cost, 120k.


Its about when and what I spend money on. Get to know a person on the skills and knowledge they have before judging because they don't want to waste money at the all mighty dealer.

 

I give up...

 

 

Loool

 

 

Nice,

 

Posting previous builds in no way shape or form justifies being cheap, and owning a car that is unforgiving in that aspect.

You wanted our advice, we gave it to you. Not our fault you refuse to properly diagnose your car because $100 bucks holds more value to you than the rebuild you will be doing soon due to owners negligence.