I just had my car in for a compression test because my car is at the 99.5k mile mark and I thought it would be a good idea. This is the original engine that came with the car.

Here are the results:

Rotor 1
5.8
5.8
5.7

Rotor 2
5.7
5.8
5.9

@ 193 RPM.

Are these normal results? I know that it should be done at 250rpm but apparently my original starter doesn't turn the engine over fast enough. Is there a way to adjust these numbers? Or do I have to buy the new starter and pay for the compression test again like the dealer wants me to?

 

I dunno but, bump.

 

Use this correction graph to normalize your numbers to 250 rpm.

If your car is an '04 or '05 it may still have the orginal battery and starter motor, both of which were replaced under a service bulletin if you had slow cranking or trouble starting the car. Both the battery and starter motor on those years were inadequate. That could account for the slow cranking speed.

 

Those numbers are way low, even at 194 RPMs. If your engine is an '04-'05 model your apex seals (and maybe rotor housings, too) are probably worn. The good news is that your numbers are well-balanced so it is simple wear and not irregular damage that is the issue here.

If you do have an '04-'05 model, get the new starter and battery, pursuant to the TSB, re-test the compression, and see what happens.

 

Well, I know I don't have the original battery that came with the car... it's stamped for 2007 and my car is an '04. But every time I bring it in to my local shop they tell me it's old and needs replacing. The thing is, I've never had any problems starting my car or with the battery. Just the occasional long crank to get it to start when the engine is warm.

I'm going to upgrade my battery to the DieHard Platinum sooner or later, and I'll have to get the new starter.

So, Charles, you think I would need to have my engine rebuilt? Or should Mazda cover that if the compression is still out of spec? The dealer was saying that they only replace engines when the compression is below 4, which I know is bull. I probably wouldn't be able to get them to replace it even it it blew.

 

Low compression is low compression, they don't give you a set number. Even they have to call it in to Mazda North America for the replacement engine approval. If they told you that find another dealer. I just had my third engine put in and stalling and low start were the symptoms each time. Take in and tell them about the problem starting when hot and the problems of lack of power and stalling and they should replace it if you are under 100k.

 

Gee at 99.5K (miles) you are just inside the US engine warranty, as suggested take your car into a MAZDA Dealer and tell them it is hard to start and lacks power.

As Charles said your numbers are low but consistent, do you pre-mix, it won't fix your engine but will always help and may slightly improve performance and compressions....I say slightly..It won't hurt.

A good Carbon clean may help too.

 

like CRH said those numbers mean "FAILED"

Even @ 193 .. Lets just say 200 RPM. ITS STILL too low.

Your engine is Dying.

Take it to a "Good" Mazda dealer. Tell them this car stalls, lack of power, and impossible to start it when its "HOT"

 

Yes, this is a poor sick Renny..about to go to Renny Heaven..

I have been reading that some Mazda Dealers are asking for Service and or Oil change proof, so OP take these with you...FIND them..

 

Do you have your maintenance records?

 

The MOST important thing here, if you want to qualify for a warranty reman, is to get to the dealer and register the hard-to-start-when-hot "concern" (industry lingo) before the 100K mile mark. As long as your complaint is registered with a dealer you will be fine. They will perform a compression test and contact Mazda HQ for directions on what to do next.

 

No, I purchased the car used with 78k miles on it and I do my own maintenance. They will probably give me hell for that, and for using synthetic oil (Syntec 5w30). And yes, I do premix... 8oz per tank for about 10-12k miles now. Maybe that has masked my symptoms.

Also, that is the only dealer in my area. I live in Charleston, SC and Stokes Mazda is the only dealer still around. I would have to drive to Columbia or Myrtle Beach which would put hundreds of miles on it.

I knew I shouldn't have waited this long.

 

dont waste your money on Syntec's 5w30, thats one of the "fake" Synthetic.

the only "real" Synthetic in the whole Syntec line is the 0w30 European formula.

 

Well I was using that weight for the winter but I moved to a heavier weight for the summer. It gets pretty hot in SC

 

Would the Mazda decarb procedure significantly help my compression or is my engine toast? How long until I start running into any major problems?

Just wondering in case they refuse to warranty it.. I'm going to take it in sometime next week.

 

The first thing they are going to do is that they are going to change your coils and do a decarb procedure to make sure it's not the engine. Then if it still fails, your engine went kaput...

Then you get a free REMAN!

 

Well, good news guys.. I talked to the service manager yesterday and he told me to bring it in tomorrow morning. They were going to do the compression test again with new spark plugs, which I am dubious as to how much of a difference it will make, and then if the results come back again bad they will agree to replace the engine.

Of course, they would need proof of maintenance.. so I scrounged up one oil change and a bunch of oil receipts for when I purchased the oil to change it myself.

The guy also said that the new engine won't come with spark plugs and that they're going to charge me to transfer them to my new engine.. if the engine doesn't come with spark plugs, what exactly does it come with?

 

well, the engine does not come with new plugs thats true. cuz they afraid that it might be damage during transit.

REman engine u will get --- the short block(meaning the engine itself), new water pump, new thermostat, and one more thing I forgot right now. but its not spark plugs.

but hmm, charging them to "transfer" it over to your new engine is just nothing but a rip off. this dealership wants to dig every single penny out of a customer. not a good dealership. and if Im you I am not paying for it.

I mean seriously, how do they expect the engine to run if it doesnt have plugs? and how long is it going to take? 10 minutes ? the service writer got the ***** to want money for that.

so if I one day I go in a restaurant to buy take out cuz I want to eat it in my office, but then 10 minutes later the shop owner come back and say I need to pay for the take out box too. cuz it does not include in the price of the meal. does that make sense to you ?

 

yes it makes sense to me

 

....

 

Crystal Clear...

Over here if you go out to a party (say a Birthday) and you bring your own cake, some restaurants will charge you a CAKAGE fee, that is to cut the cake and supply clean plates, $6.00 thanks!!!

I don't know if I would expect the Mazda Dealer to wear the cost of new spark plugs, particularly if MNAO will not reimburse them under the reman warranty claim.

Just like they won't supply a new air filter at no charge...

But I guess they supply the oil filter and engine oil and coolant (top off) for free??? don't they?

Much would depend if the Dealer sold you the car in the first instance, contrary to popular belief Mazda Dealers in Australia do not make money out of Warranty Work..

 

they do, in fact.

I got Reman and new oil (sad 5w20 ...) no charge.

I was still under b2b warranty back then so ... hmm, but it doesnt really make sense for the dealership to charge him just to "swap the plugs" ... I mean come on ...

 

"transfer them to my new engine"

Yeah, did not read it correctly...

BUT YEAH, this is BS to charge the guy just to transfer (labor) the plugs from the old engine to the new one......that is CRAP...

I would definitely NOT pay them to do that small task...

 

This is such a pain in the ***. I got the same guy I talked to the first time. Him and the tech both agreed that the test is not worth running until I get the updated starter.

A new starter doesn't magically fix worn apex seals. THE STARTER DOESN'T CHANGE THE COMPRESSION OF THE ENGINE!

I showed them how to adjust the numbers to show that my compression is at the bare minimum spec.. which means the engine is bad. They kept trying to tell me that it's passing. The tech even thinks that the compression will get better with the new starter, but really, I'm just going to be out $450 when the results come back the same: minimum spec, just at 250rpm.

But he agreed to call the Mazda Tech Line, though I have no way of verifying if what he relays to me is what they actually said.

 

its just funny that he thought that a faster starter will fix everything rofl.