NY don't forget the pre-mix and your SIG!..

Good to see you are 'powered' correctly once again.

 

This time maintain it properly !!!!!!

I kid I kid

 

I no Premix ! Mazda say no to Premix ! They know best ! Me knows nothing !



Use 5w20 all the way, no premix, and drive it as slow as possible ?



WILL DO SIR ! Right after I left the dealership, I stop by this Mobil station down the block (well, like 1/2 mile away), and filled her up with 16 oz premix and full tank of gas ... let the legend beings

 

nycgps - I havent been around this forum for a couple months now. Sorry bout your loss, and glad to hear you got your car back. I can't remember or not if you had any aftermarket parts on your car. If so, did the dealership question any of those before the new engine? Or use the aftermarket parts to get our of the warrenty? Just wondering if they were a factor at all?

 

hmmmmmm - a rotary builder here told me not to premix on the first 2-3 tanks . Need to let the apex seals bed in ....

 

Kevin, as others have stated, you are a credit to the community. I think you just may see me in there a couple times a year on one of my numerous RI<->MD trips. If I do, I'll definitely give you a heads up that I am coming.

 

Yeah, I was wondering where did you go.

Just got my car back this afternoon. So far so good

Aftermarket parts ---- it really depends on how "smart" the dealership is.

some dealerships, it doesn't matter if you have aftermarket or not will just tell you straight up that NO, THIS WILL NOT BE COVERED. so they can rip u off (Giffirue Mazda is a great example)

Some wants to avoid aftermarket parts at all cost and will threat u with bs when they see one. For example, they wanna blame intake for ssv problem (Great Neck Mazda)

Some actually know what they're doing. Will deny only if its really the part causing it. I am ok with that. they will try to help you whenever possible. these dealerships are RARE, and it takes time to find one. (Wayne Mazda)

Some are simply cluless, they dont even know what they're doing. clogged cat blaming the intake, telling customers that the intake's flow rate has changed, an its causing the cel of air system problem, if u can get the map from them we can map it in for you @ a cost(Koppell Mazda) another case is a broken coolant bottle, no damage except the tab use to hold the cap in place. he "thinks that you've been thru a frontal collison thats why its like that and no no warranty", yeah ok, if i did, isnt it easy to tell, not to mention. it was the tab thats broken, the cap was probably the cause, not releasing pressure, eventually breaking it. and then saying my aftermarket oil filter was leaking, when its not, it was the oil filter sandwich. i even know it. but they didnt tell me and go ahead and did an oil change and charged me 30 bucks. and of course it still leaked(i have to take it out and re secured it) (Manhattan Mazda)

so take your time. its going to be awhile before you find the right one

Too late, Premix already in :P

Im ok with it.

 

lol, just to exactly clarify what I was trying to explain (im always in a rush so i swap words sometimes) rather then focus on rpms changing, i meant focus on loads changing, such as use the full range, low, mid and high. dont stick to one area. ride out 1st all the way sometimes, other times be gentle, shift early.

It's like getting a new dog, you want to socialize it with all the things it will see in it's life quickly so it will adjust properly

Also key thing to remember is that your new engine will be building compression over the first bunches of miles (in reality most motors build compression slowly for a while) so your motor will be even stronger in like 3k miles if you make sure to take care of it properly during break in and such (mazda rotaries come with a built-in 20k mile internal switch, so i generally consider a motors compression to peak there (altho possible in hundredths of a psi).

there's tons more tips, but that's really the key focus, variable loads. Everyone focuses on "how long is break-in" then people says oh 1k or so miles, customer goes on some interstate doing 80 in 6th on cruise control and thinks the motor is broken in. That motor is gonna give you headaches eventually if not right away.

oh and jackson, you need front brakes, i figured you'd go aftermarket anyway but I forgot to write that, plus rx8 brakes at the dealer are $$.

The regional rep/manager dan was in today. Had your car in my bay watching everything and he came by and loved your strut bars and your lower bars. He actually said they look like something that shouldve been there stock and couldnt stop commenting on how the car must feel lol. i think he wanted to drive it or something (that is RARE, he sees like 10x the cars i do everyday)

kevin.

 

i was just messing with ya

i gotta say the engine rox mpg seems to be a lot better than the broken one. and thx for the clutch part.

 

lol that was more of a clarification just to have in the topic lol, sorta aimed at "searchers" help cut down on repeated threads .

Glad all is well, car felt a lot stronger to me in the passing rpm ranges. TB being able to open the correct amount helps up top

also no problem about the clutch, it had air in it as i guessed which improved it a lot but with that different slave im not sure what its supposed to feel like, i adjusted the pedal to get the feel right, remember when you rechange the clutch whenever you may need to readjust, as of now though you have plenty of meat on the clutch, no real shavings/rips kind of stuff. mostly dusting.

kevin.

 

i was thinking about it for a while, just never bothered to check. thx for letting me know

lol !

the bars really helped. it helps stiffin up the whole body. it makes the car more preditable around corners. but its not a car for driving families/gf anymore. they just keep on bitching about "Your car sucks so bumpy even your friend's 98 Civic feels better than yours ...

yea. thx again

 

ever seen my fd on level surface? Yea the girlfriend doesn't enjoy the ride too bumpy for her, she luckily doesnt mind the decrepit state out of the exterior (keyed up body, lots of weird buildup **** from sitting for 5 years under a pine tree in some guys back yard, windows got smashed in and were replaced with crappy versions and installed poorly lol etc).

but it handles like a fiend, limiting factor right now is 245's in the rear which will be solved when the widebody and all goes on this winter. Past two years i've basically been polishing the running of the motor, ports/fuel is huge so the idle quality is poor, it idles smooth but at 1,400 rpm, at that rpm the car is too loud for the street so i have to force it to deal with 1200rpm instead which it does not like, other then that it's a scream to the beeeeeeep, and we're still only at 15psi, methanol runs at 25psi coming when i get spare time and free dyno time (i dont pay so i have to wait).

overall decent for a car that cost $5500 and investing maybe 4-5k really, and this summer another 4k or so, should be a killer.

kevin.

 

kevin, curious what you mean by that "20k internal switch"

 

look thru the wiring diagrams, i'll see if i can find it, im 99% sure its in the rx8 it's been in all past computer controlled rotaries. (who knows i could've just quoted another car's info but im pretty sure that was a rotary thing, im doubting myself now, searching for it tho)

meh couldn't scrounge it out of my files quick enough. But basically on the older rotaries there was a 20k mile switch, after your car hit 20k mile it would switch off for the remainder of the car's life. Basically it acted like a load switch, causing the car's load to go up making the PCM rase the base idle slightly to help keep the idle up and smooth since a new motor has lower compression and building the compression requires time. Whether 20k miles is important, i dunno, i think its just to make the engine friendly to the average person aka non rotard.

kevin.

 

Hey, Don't diss my 98 Civic that I almost sold today!

No picture fo you!

 

You got your FD for 5.5 K only ? thats pretty damn good !

Hmm ... maybe I should really save up for some ...

 

lmao, i bought a near wrecked rare fd for $5500. nothing in the engine bay (nothing useful, a half 13bt half 13brew motor with trashed everything, exterior and interior trashed, wiring mangled, it's 1 of 36 chaste white automatic tourings made in 94, it also has the nice glass sunroof stock Of course it's no longer automatic but chaste white alone is worth more. that and i picked it up from mass. and towed it back to joisey.

it's easier to buildup cheap when you have favors owed from the right people.

kevin.

 

o, never mind then lol !

I was like "oh hell no, Kevin got a working FD for 5.5K.

 

rofl

wherz tda VtEC y0 !

 

I PMed you Kevin

 

I wish happy miles with your new engine nycgps and always free of problems !

So what is the deal with the old motor? Sorry if I have lost the post that mentioned something like that. I mean will your old motor be opened so to identify what caused the low compression?

 

Quote of the year! if I did not have all these dam mods in my sig I would have it in there in a hart beat.

 

So how do you make your engine sniff people's crotches? :P

 

It doesn't have vtec

 

dealerships cant open the motor, They're not allowed to.

So have to wait until the motor is shipped back to The factory.

Willl see what happens.

NO ! ALL CIVICS HAVE VTEC !!!!!!