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Confused about the Optima Red Top batteries

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Old 10-06-2012 | 04:20 PM
  #26  
Carbon8's Avatar
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They recently changed from a different company so the models are different now ill have to get some time and look into it i had 2 of them in a truck with two kicker 2500.1 amps and two 10" solo X subs batteries where a beast. I replaced 6 yellow tops with them and they lasted me till i sold the truck which was two years, i barely got 6 months out of yellow tops. I cant say how they are now as I don't own the truck anymore but a vast improvement over optima batteries.
Old 10-06-2012 | 04:35 PM
  #27  
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Little digging later.........
Kinetik KHC1400 Car Batteries at Onlinecarstereo.com
Thats what I would go with
Old 10-06-2012 | 05:16 PM
  #28  
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weeeeeeeeee
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Looks like we'd want the reversed cells version ... interesting as it's $20 cheaper.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._KHC1400R.aspx

http://kinetikaudio.com/2009/product.asp?C=1&P=KHC1400
Old 10-06-2012 | 08:40 PM
  #29  
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My Red Top is still doing fine.
Old 10-06-2012 | 09:00 PM
  #30  
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Patience young grasshopper. Give it time. It will die lol
Old 10-06-2012 | 09:12 PM
  #31  
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And what battery won't?
Old 10-06-2012 | 09:28 PM
  #32  
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Flux Capacitor
Old 10-07-2012 | 12:42 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
thread resurrection ... just want to reiterate my complete lack of support for this battery.

After multiple tests ... measuring voltage / draw at rest ... full charges, etc I have finally replaced my red top. It was a complete waste of my time and money and I pity the fool that wastes a dime on this battery.

Mine was ordered direct from Optima so I didn't have a local shop to complain to. I admit, I never bothered to complain to Optima directly about it either.

Yesterday I broke down and bought a yellow top from a local Advance Auto Parts and difference is night and fuggin day. I can't remember my red top ever spinning up my flywheel to the RPMs that I'm now getting from the yellow top. I'm talking a huge difference here ... like 300 rpm easy.

It only compounded issues for me... perceived warm start problems, etc.

Spend the extra coin and get a yellow top if you're going to stick with the Optima line.

mazurfer, sorry for getting cranky with you (yeah I know -- its been a year) ... It's amazing how different something reads a year later. appreciate the support!

Shell
x2

as a long time Redtop owner (I owned the first one since 2008 I think) and it went dead around 18 months later, swapped for free. well no problems since on that one but I used it on my brother's car. Not Rotary. Why? Cuz I think Rotary really kills battery faster than usual. it was a Group 34, not 35.

Then I got another 35 for free (don't ask me how), it went dead after yep, I think 18 months? Well I got it for free so I'm not complaining. After that, I was like why don't I give yellowtop a shot as it seems that it should last much longer. which it did in fact. I deep discharge it a few times, it went dead about a year later, I don't blame Optima cuz I drain it down to 1.5 v (yep, you read that right), so it's expected. Replaced for another one. I have been working so I didn't start my car all that much, on the Old Redtop, if I don't start my car for more than 2 weeks, it's dead. Now the yellowtop, a month and it's still cranks like normal. good stuff.

Probably not as good as DieHard Platinum or other good battery, but I think if you like Optima for whatever reason, get Yellowtop, forget Redtop. Redtop it's really a "starting" battery, it does not last, period.
Old 10-07-2012 | 04:00 PM
  #34  
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I got 34r drop tray it came with been very pleased with it .. your call
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