http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=336&page=1


Guys; im a little confused on which to get.

• For VINs JM1FE****** 100000 to 157837 (built before July 1, 2005), replace the tank with sensor. N3H1-15-351G

• For VINs JM1FE****** 157838 to 403405 (built on or after July 1, 2005), replace the tank only. N3H1-15-352

I have a 2006 model rx8. I thought that we will need to replace the whole tank including sensor as it is integrated?
Why is the above description states replace tank only?

Also; if you look at the part number: Ive read thru the forum ppl are saying that N3H1-15-350M is the latest version. I have not come across a 351 or 352 revision part number.

Please advise

 

i'd call them to verify the part number

 

Ive contacted finishlineperformance.com; a good finding.

They've sent me a pretty new Mazda Service Bulletin specifically tackling the Coolant sensor issue: Dated 7/13/2010

It seems that it is possible to replace TANK only for built after 2005!!
Unlike what i have read throughout the forum; stating that there is no way to replace the sensor only.

Apparently the bulletin have instructed us to RE-used the sensor.

I have attached the 4 page bulletin below. Do not hesitate to PM me for its pdf version.

 

good pdf!

just to clarify something

you can replace the sensor ONLY if u have a updated tank. another reason why they let u replace the tank only because the fking plastic tank degrades overtime and the tab to hold the cap down will break.

notice, if u have a bad sensor u still have to buy the whole thing, they dont sell the sensor alone.

 

Just a pre-caution, just make sure your sensor works fine before purchase only the tank.
It won't be fun if you later found out the sensor is faulty.....unless you are fine with it unplugged. (which most people did)

 

Thanks for the feedback; pardon my ignorance. How do i check if my sensor is working fine?

 

See my thread here. It's long a boring, but might help.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/coolant-bottle-greatest-secrets-revealed-182793/

To tell you the truth, the easiest way I can think of to actually test the sensor while the bottle is installed in the car would be.

1.) Unplug the sensor at the connector located to the left of the bottle.

2.) On the sensor side of the connector, use an ohm meter and check the resistance between the two terminals. With it unplugged, and assuming you have adequate coolant level, and a "good" float, you will measure more than 2 meg ohms. This means the reed switch(sensor)switch is open meaning
a.) You have adequate coolant and
b.) The float is okay and floating like it should be.

3.) If you measure less than say 100 ohms(I forget the actual number and finally threw away my old butcher shaft and magnet, but I recall it was about 10 ohms), then the float is riding low on the shaft, the reed switch has closed, and the float has lost buoyancy!




I incorporated your bulletin into my thread! Thanks!

Now call Tommy for me at Finishline(Rosenthal) and ask him to update the RX-8 bulletin list as that one doesn't show, or I missed it!