Cooling issues fixed
#1
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Cooling issues fixed
I've had cooling issues ever since I purchased used a few months ago.
Replaced all the cooling relays, new temp sensor, new thermostat, tested the fans to make sure they work. -- replaced pretty much everything that controls cooling except the pcm because , I mean, it *couldn't be the pcm, right?* -- or so I thought.
Well, what seems to have finally solved it was purchasing a cooling fan control kit from rx8performance.com to bypass the pcm.
Now, no issues. It seems to hover betw 62 and 65 celsius.
So, for anyone that has similar cooling issues-where you know the fans/relays/temp sensor is in good working condition and it still runs hot--this is a good fix.
Replaced all the cooling relays, new temp sensor, new thermostat, tested the fans to make sure they work. -- replaced pretty much everything that controls cooling except the pcm because , I mean, it *couldn't be the pcm, right?* -- or so I thought.
Well, what seems to have finally solved it was purchasing a cooling fan control kit from rx8performance.com to bypass the pcm.
Now, no issues. It seems to hover betw 62 and 65 celsius.
So, for anyone that has similar cooling issues-where you know the fans/relays/temp sensor is in good working condition and it still runs hot--this is a good fix.
#2
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
I've had cooling issues ever since I purchased used a few months ago.
Replaced all the cooling relays, new temp sensor, new thermostat, tested the fans to make sure they work. -- replaced pretty much everything that controls cooling except the pcm because , I mean, it *couldn't be the pcm, right?* -- or so I thought.
Well, what seems to have finally solved it was purchasing a cooling fan control kit from rx8performance.com to bypass the pcm.
Now, no issues. It seems to hover betw 62 and 65 celsius.
So, for anyone that has similar cooling issues-where you know the fans/relays/temp sensor is in good working condition and it still runs hot--this is a good fix.
Replaced all the cooling relays, new temp sensor, new thermostat, tested the fans to make sure they work. -- replaced pretty much everything that controls cooling except the pcm because , I mean, it *couldn't be the pcm, right?* -- or so I thought.
Well, what seems to have finally solved it was purchasing a cooling fan control kit from rx8performance.com to bypass the pcm.
Now, no issues. It seems to hover betw 62 and 65 celsius.
So, for anyone that has similar cooling issues-where you know the fans/relays/temp sensor is in good working condition and it still runs hot--this is a good fix.
That's not going to happen ..............
#3
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#4
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However, if that reading is from the stock ECT sensor, and it has always been reading low, it explains why the fans might not have been coming on and all of the cooling issues to begin with.
Last edited by Loki; 02-26-2016 at 07:53 AM.
#7
Moder8
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Um, most of what they said, unless you are running the heater flat out because it is horribly cold. Heater will suck heat out, oil coolers will also dump some. But, that does seem a little low. The only radiator flow at that time will be the tiny little hole.
Then again, -4 C air through the heater core can suck up a lot of heat.
Will be cooler, just that seems really cool.
Then again, -4 C air through the heater core can suck up a lot of heat.
Will be cooler, just that seems really cool.
#9
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Like others have said, 65C is way too low. The fan kit is not supposed to turn on the fans until 180F. That's 82C. Either your temp sensor is off, or there's something else going on.
I just don't get how a fan kit that turns on the fans at a lower temp, fixes overheating. When you're overheating, the fans are already on full speed! If when the stock fans turn on full speed at 213F, and can't stop the temp from getting to 230F, if doesn't matter if the fans turn on at 180F with the kit. It's not gonna work. So how can this FIX the issue?
Unless the fan kit is giving more power to the fans, making them spin faster. In that case, yeah.
I just don't get how a fan kit that turns on the fans at a lower temp, fixes overheating. When you're overheating, the fans are already on full speed! If when the stock fans turn on full speed at 213F, and can't stop the temp from getting to 230F, if doesn't matter if the fans turn on at 180F with the kit. It's not gonna work. So how can this FIX the issue?
Unless the fan kit is giving more power to the fans, making them spin faster. In that case, yeah.
#10
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I'm using the Torque software to read the obd. Possibly that is reading too low incorrectly?
Previous to the cooling mods, the stock gauge would run at ~40% and stay there.
Now, the stock gauge runs at around 30-35% and I actually see *some* movement after the fans kick on.
I bought the car used a few months back and have totally redone the cooling system -- including the water seals(ie engine rebuild). So, the thermo senso, fan relays, reservoir, are all new. Last week I noticed that the cap that was on it, tho looked to be in good shape was of the wrong pressure, so I replaced that.
So far, so good-no more overheat issues.
Previous to the cooling mods, the stock gauge would run at ~40% and stay there.
Now, the stock gauge runs at around 30-35% and I actually see *some* movement after the fans kick on.
I bought the car used a few months back and have totally redone the cooling system -- including the water seals(ie engine rebuild). So, the thermo senso, fan relays, reservoir, are all new. Last week I noticed that the cap that was on it, tho looked to be in good shape was of the wrong pressure, so I replaced that.
So far, so good-no more overheat issues.
#11
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Like others have said, 65C is way too low. The fan kit is not supposed to turn on the fans until 180F. That's 82C. Either your temp sensor is off, or there's something else going on.
I just don't get how a fan kit that turns on the fans at a lower temp, fixes overheating. When you're overheating, the fans are already on full speed! If when the stock fans turn on full speed at 213F, and can't stop the temp from getting to 230F, if doesn't matter if the fans turn on at 180F with the kit. It's not gonna work. So how can this FIX the issue?
Unless the fan kit is giving more power to the fans, making them spin faster. In that case, yeah.
I just don't get how a fan kit that turns on the fans at a lower temp, fixes overheating. When you're overheating, the fans are already on full speed! If when the stock fans turn on full speed at 213F, and can't stop the temp from getting to 230F, if doesn't matter if the fans turn on at 180F with the kit. It's not gonna work. So how can this FIX the issue?
Unless the fan kit is giving more power to the fans, making them spin faster. In that case, yeah.
So, I would assume that the overheating was caused by the fact that the fans were not coming on at all.
So, the fix was simple.. the fans actually comes on now.
#12
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Thread Starter
Um, most of what they said, unless you are running the heater flat out because it is horribly cold. Heater will suck heat out, oil coolers will also dump some. But, that does seem a little low. The only radiator flow at that time will be the tiny little hole.
Then again, -4 C air through the heater core can suck up a lot of heat.
Will be cooler, just that seems really cool.
Then again, -4 C air through the heater core can suck up a lot of heat.
Will be cooler, just that seems really cool.
But regardless, as it stands now anyways, no cooling issues. I'm keeping an eye on it as the weather starts to get warmer, but so far, so good.
#13
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
I'm using the Torque software to read the obd. Possibly that is reading too low incorrectly?
Previous to the cooling mods, the stock gauge would run at ~40% and stay there.
Now, the stock gauge runs at around 30-35% and I actually see *some* movement after the fans kick on.
I bought the car used a few months back and have totally redone the cooling system -- including the water seals(ie engine rebuild). So, the thermo senso, fan relays, reservoir, are all new. Last week I noticed that the cap that was on it, tho looked to be in good shape was of the wrong pressure, so I replaced that.
So far, so good-no more overheat issues.
Previous to the cooling mods, the stock gauge would run at ~40% and stay there.
Now, the stock gauge runs at around 30-35% and I actually see *some* movement after the fans kick on.
I bought the car used a few months back and have totally redone the cooling system -- including the water seals(ie engine rebuild). So, the thermo senso, fan relays, reservoir, are all new. Last week I noticed that the cap that was on it, tho looked to be in good shape was of the wrong pressure, so I replaced that.
So far, so good-no more overheat issues.
#14
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Thread Starter
It's possible,tho, that the cap could be the culprit. The cap that was on there was a 12 or 13 psi cap (and who knows how old or if even working correctly). I replaced that cap last week after I took a drive and noticed some bubbling and overflow.
So, say months, maybe years of normal driving with a bad cap--constantly losing coolant from a bad cap, causes alot of mild overheating--not enough to move the useless stock gauge, but enough to eventually blow the coolant seals and force a rebuild.
Tho, that doesn't really explain the fact that the fans didn't come on.
Who knows--bad gremlins?
#15
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I'm really puzzled how the car could be running cooler than operating. That shouldn't be possible unless you're forcing the fans to run full time or something silly like that.
The stock rad cap spec is 0.9bar ~ 13psi. What have you got on there now?
While its obviously better than overheating, overcooling isn't necessarily great either - the oil isn't at the temperature range it's designed for, so may not have the shear properties it should; and if you beat on the car you could end up with more temperature differential between the exhaust port area and the "cold" parts of the engine, which risks distortion. It's why we don't beat on cars before they're fully warmed up, especially rotaries.
The stock rad cap spec is 0.9bar ~ 13psi. What have you got on there now?
While its obviously better than overheating, overcooling isn't necessarily great either - the oil isn't at the temperature range it's designed for, so may not have the shear properties it should; and if you beat on the car you could end up with more temperature differential between the exhaust port area and the "cold" parts of the engine, which risks distortion. It's why we don't beat on cars before they're fully warmed up, especially rotaries.
#16
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Originally Posted by Freq
For the short time I drove the car before rebuilding, I don't remember hearing the fans running(even the single low speed fan) outside of my testing the relays.
So, I would assume that the overheating was caused by the fact that the fans were not coming on at all.
So, the fix was simple.. the fans actually comes on now.
So, I would assume that the overheating was caused by the fact that the fans were not coming on at all.
So, the fix was simple.. the fans actually comes on now.
The OBD2 is accurate. How high did the temps get when you were overheating? Do you recall hearing the fans? They're fairly loud on high.
For how long did you idle at 65C? It didn't go over that at all? Were your fans spinning at 65C?
Like others said, it seems like you have a thermostat stuck open.
#21
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I'm really puzzled how the car could be running cooler than operating. That shouldn't be possible unless you're forcing the fans to run full time or something silly like that.
The stock rad cap spec is 0.9bar ~ 13psi. What have you got on there now?
While its obviously better than overheating, overcooling isn't necessarily great either - the oil isn't at the temperature range it's designed for, so may not have the shear properties it should; and if you beat on the car you could end up with more temperature differential between the exhaust port area and the "cold" parts of the engine, which risks distortion. It's why we don't beat on cars before they're fully warmed up, especially rotaries.
The stock rad cap spec is 0.9bar ~ 13psi. What have you got on there now?
While its obviously better than overheating, overcooling isn't necessarily great either - the oil isn't at the temperature range it's designed for, so may not have the shear properties it should; and if you beat on the car you could end up with more temperature differential between the exhaust port area and the "cold" parts of the engine, which risks distortion. It's why we don't beat on cars before they're fully warmed up, especially rotaries.
So, doing the math that's at ~24 degs off farenheit.
But you tell me.. according to the stock gauge, before using the controller, it wld stay pegged at 45%. Now, I've actually got movement and it hovers no higher than 40%.
#22
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When pulling the engine, there was evidence of coolant overflow all over the left side of the bay. This is also what I saw the first time I started breaking in the engine--bubbling in the coolant tank and spitting overflow into the engine bay.
#23
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If you got the temps from the OBD2 port, chances are it's pretty accurate. The stock temp gauge is supposed to stay pegged at 45 degrees. Your fans are not supposed to come on at 160F. I think the fan kit turns them on around 180F.
#24
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Sounds like the ECT sensor calibration table on your PCM could be out. You can get a rough indication of whether it's out by looking at the temp value in the Torque app and compare against your IAT (also in Torque) and the temp sensor displayed on your dash.
#25
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--leads me to believe the reading off the obd is off.
..but I'll look into it further.