I've done searching and reading threads...

1. It sounds like the original battery lasts about 4-5 years - is there any clue that it is time to replace the battery other than testing it? I'm trying to figure out when to replace mine. My 2005 just turned 4 years old.

2. Does one really have to add distilled water to batteries if they are not maintenance free? I'm a bit confused on how much you really have to take care of them. Most of the good batteries in Group 35 are not maintenance free right?

After reading threads on here and throughout the Web, I am planning to replace my battery with a Group 35 Johnson Controls battery, either the Costco Kirkland or Walmart Everstart MAXX 35N (we have the N batteries here in NorCal). Johnson Controls seems to make very high-quality batteries for many private label customers.

 

The engine turns over slower and the battery seems to to require water more often.

2. Yes and yes.

The Optima battery that Costco sells is a group 75/35 and will not work in an RX-8 unless you extend the battery cables. The Optima used to be an excellent battery but seems to suffer from poor quality control latley. Mine lasted 1 year then started acting up (wouldn't hold a charge). Because I purchased online, trying to get warranty became a nightmare. If you do go with the Optima, buy it locally to insure you will have an easy time with a warranty claim. I now recommend the Sears Diehard Platinum (It's made by Oddessy). It too is a gel battery (just like the Optima) but has a better warranty and is a "no brainer" when it come to warranty claims.

 

Quick question to piggyback this thread:

EDZRide,

What do you mean the battery will require water more often? The stock battery isn't a sealed type battery? How do you know when you need to add water?

 

Stock battery (like most other stock battery) is NOT maintenance free.

only SEALED battery thats based on GEL/AGM are maintenance free.

To add water, just open the caps, Look inside and you will see a mark. Make sure you wipe the area clean before you add water into it tho. and make sure you have eye protection before you even try to open the cap. and use gloves if possible. cuz if that thing spills/squirt out for whatever reason into your eye/hands is not going to be funny.

Some "regular" battery has a window on top of the battery (or on the side) to let you see the water level. (My FIT has one)

 

Thanks NYCGPS, I never knew such things.

Second question - Since maintenance of the battery is not as simple as topping off my coolant, is there a certain schedule that I can abide by so I do not have to check the battery when there is no need?

 

its actually just like topping off your coolant --- And you dont have to do it as often, check it like every 3 months or so you will be good.

pop the cap, peek inside, if water is running low, add some.

but if you notice low water + build up inside ... maybe its time to look for a new battery.

 

Thanks again for the info, I swear no one has ever mentioned this to me before. I'll check the battery next time I get in my car.

 

Honestly, dude, me, either.

 

I'd recommend checking once a month (more often if you're adding water every time you check). To save you some time (once you have a handle on the electrolyte level) try this shortcut: Check the electrolyte level in the cell closest to the positive (+) battery terminal; If it's ok usually the rest are ok too; if it is low, check and refill the rest of the cells as required.

 

Thanks, I'll go check tonight or so and try to buy distilled water.

 

As **** as I am about oil changes, pre-mixing, coolant changes, tranny/diff'l oil, etc, etc.... I've never checked my OEM Interstate battery's fluid level and it's still charging and providing power fine (I do put it on a Battery Tender in Winter). Batterys these days are essentially "maintenance free." Many are sealed so you couldn't add distilled water if you wanted to.

All batterys will eventually fall below threshold levels as a simple matter of the materials being dissolved. 4-5 years is a pretty average duration.

 

Well my question was regarding the stock battery. Again, I've never heard about this business of adding water to them, but I can understand why there is such a process.

If it's regarding an aftermarket battery, I would read the manual/documentation that comes with it, but the stock one sort of doesn't have such info.

 

Thanks for the add'l posts. I am much better informed now. I am sure most people never ever bother to check the water levels of their non-maint batteries.

 

Lol, I didn't even know these batteries had ports available to add water. And I recently messed with my battery too!

 

Most are not maintenance free. You have to read the case to see if it's maintenance free.

An unfortunate thing about regular batteries is that they don't have individual caps for the cells, just the two square covers that plug three cells each. The same cosmetic appearance as maintenance free batteries. I learned that the hard way some time ago, when I assumed that what I had was maintenance free because of the lack of individual caps.

would have been overkill back in the days of individual screw-on caps. But now that you've got to pry off a three-hole plug, accidents are not unlikely. Besides eye protection, don't wear your good clothing.

For those who have not yet added water to a battery, they have a water level indicator. When you remove the caps, you'll see a split tube going down from the filler hole. The bottom of that tube is the correct level. When the water reaches it, you'll see the surface change shape from flat.

Minimum level is just covering the plates. If the water is below that, odds are you've suffered some damage.

Ken

 

Thanks a lot Ken, I'll make sure to have a friend nearby while I'm doing this. No point running around half blinded trying to find a phone.

 

reminds me of about a month ago, fixing my Rx-7's AC, it had a hole on the condenser so I have to replace it.

When I finished everything no leak whatsoever, going to charge it, tap the Freeze12 Can with Can Tap, then the can tap flip and the ******* of Freeze12 just spray all over my face, the **** has a red dye so I was like AHHHH my eyes and I ran into my garage to wash it off ... damn I cant believe I dodge all the **** in my garage, it got power tools, hand tools, air tools, old exhaust, etc ... dodge all the **** when my eyes are burning and cant see **** ..... lol

Always eye protection !

 

I said "essentially" maintenance free. They rarely need add'l fluid. But a good idea to check anyway.

 

The only way to really know is to place a substantial load on the battery for a period of time and see how it performs. The standard test devices give a way to compare apples to apples. But I think there are rules of thumb you can use on your own by disabling the spark & fuel, cranking for a certain time and then immediately measuring the battery voltage.

Replace it now, imo. Winter is coming, so it's the perfect time. 4 years is a good life for the OEM battery. You might get another year out of it, but what does that amount to, in pro-rated terms? $20? $40 at most? Less than the cost of one tank of gas. Is that worth the risk and peace of mind?

Yes, that is the definition of "not maintenance free"


There are all types. Each has advantages and disadvantages. No one type is particularly "bad". A traditional, "flooded" battery that requires periodic maintenance can give good service and is probably the best bang for the buck. My preference are AGM batteries because of the total lack of corrosion and maintenance chores. Either way you go, look for good ratings for "amp-hours" or "reserve capacity" in size 35 for whatever type you're considering. And verify the dimensions; our cars don't give a lot of leeway in attaching the cables.

 

^ Thanks. My car is going in for some servicing so I'll have the mechanic swap then.

Those caps on the non-maint batteries are deceiving. They don't look like they should be opened and they don't open easily.

 

flat head screw driver can open it. really easy.

 

I don't think you guys use this "rating" for car batteries in the US..But...

Just to let you know...

The original 03-05 battery was a 50 AMP Hour Battery, that means you can draw a total of 50 AMPS of power in an Hour until the Battery is flat.

When the Starter and Battery upgrade happened, the factory put in 75 AMP Hour Batteries, on the production line, not sure if MNAO used Genuine Batteries?..I doubt it. Usually Locally sourced ones.

Now the latest in Series 2's is an 80 AMP Hour Battery...

Now I don't know what your batteries rating says, but if you are buying a replacement make sure you can find one that has a lot of Stand by power, so you won't have a dead battery after a week or so of not using your car with Alarm and Immobilizer turned on.

There is just not enough juice to fire up ye old Starter and Ignition System.

Many of these so- called good and cheap batteries are OK for one or two years, then they can go down fast...you only get what you pay for...

Just as an example ...from memory the engine Immobilizer draws 0.4 Amps Per hour..

Hope it helps..

 

Most battery company in the states wont tell you the "Reserved Power" rating. I think thats what you're talking about. (or something like it)

Only "higher" cost battery will have that rating out in the public (online, on the battery, etc)

 

To my point of rarely needing any add'l fluid. The caps today are very tight. Gone are the ol' days of essentially vented batteries that often needed water.

For my limited Winter '8 drivng my Battery Tended 4+ year old Interstate battery is fine, but I'll be replacing it, just because, sometime in the Spring.

 

They used to give amp hour ratings. Also stuff like number of plates. But some time ago they went to CCA as the only number. Amusing incident at work when we needed to run some instruments off a car battery, and a youngster calculated how long it would last - using the CCA number. Since then we only buy marine trolling batteries for that kind of thing. Besides being much more suitable, they're still rated in amp hours.

I've noticed that some of the lightweight batteries that can't meet CCA specs have made up an impressive sounding but meaningless rating to use in its place.

What works well for me is to charge the battery, then turn the car off and put the headlights on for 20 to 30 minutes. Measure the voltage after that.

Ken