Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
#876
A 30 weight will change to a true shear 20w in 1 day---seriously. Diesel holds its shear viscosity. Has to do with plastics
Phosphorous levels are only very marginally higher than castrol or havoline conventional oils per analysis.
Beside diesel oil is cheaper!
olddragger
Phosphorous levels are only very marginally higher than castrol or havoline conventional oils per analysis.
Beside diesel oil is cheaper!
olddragger
A member of the GA RX 8 club has done extensive research with multiple oil analysis's concerning this.
#877
Registered
iTrader: (3)
i ran royal purple for 2 yrs --10w30--when i tore my engine down the front bearing was down to the copper.
here are some oua's
1706 image is from havoline 10w/30
1707 is havoline 10/40
1708 is from castrol 10/40
1709 is from Shell deisel oil 15w/40!
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1706
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1707
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1708
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1715
take note of the viscosity readings at the bottom.
kenny fc is a good guy that has been and continues to work on oil issues and solutions. He presently is working on a safe zinc/phos additive.
I am sold on diesel oil
olddragger
here are some oua's
1706 image is from havoline 10w/30
1707 is havoline 10/40
1708 is from castrol 10/40
1709 is from Shell deisel oil 15w/40!
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1706
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1707
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1708
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1715
take note of the viscosity readings at the bottom.
kenny fc is a good guy that has been and continues to work on oil issues and solutions. He presently is working on a safe zinc/phos additive.
I am sold on diesel oil
olddragger
Last edited by olddragger; 08-01-2009 at 08:52 AM.
#878
His 8
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Leander, Tx
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i ran royal purple for 2 yrs --10w30--when i tore my engine down the front bearing was down to the copper.
here are some oua's
1706 image is from havoline 10w/30
1707 is havoline 10/40
1708 is from castrol 10/40
1709 is from Shell deisel oil 15w/40!
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1706
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1707
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1708
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1715
take note of the viscosity readings at the bottom.
kenny fc is a good guy that has been and continues to work on oil issues and solutions. He presently is working on a safe zinc/phos additive.
I am sold on diesel oil
olddragger
here are some oua's
1706 image is from havoline 10w/30
1707 is havoline 10/40
1708 is from castrol 10/40
1709 is from Shell deisel oil 15w/40!
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1706
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1707
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1708
http://garx8club.com/v3/download/file.php?id=1715
take note of the viscosity readings at the bottom.
kenny fc is a good guy that has been and continues to work on oil issues and solutions. He presently is working on a safe zinc/phos additive.
I am sold on diesel oil
olddragger
Unable to view any of the pix.. getting an "you are unauthorized to view..." message.. Register to view??
#880
Drive the Revolution!
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: TN
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you should be able to go to the album where the pics are stored and copy the picture's URL code. Then reply to the thread, click the yellow square insert picture icon, paste the URL code in the field, and submit. You may need to create an album in your profile and upload the pics there for it to work. Hope this helps!
#884
Super Moderator
The ENGLISH who invented English don't use the Z....S,S,S,S,S,
HERE are OD's Pics..
Last edited by ASH8; 08-02-2009 at 03:44 PM.
#886
Super Moderator
Soright...
#890
Super Moderator
#891
4k into my new-to-me '04 w/ now 40k on it. Second oil change, I've changed to 15w-40 Rotella diesel. First change was from the 5w-20 in it to 10-40 castrol dino. The engine feels instantly great after each change, but I'm not sure if it's just from the change of oil after 2k, or from the change in oil weight. Keep in mind, I'm in the second hottest place on earth, so it's probable that it's the change in weight.
oldragger, are you using 15-40 in winter too?
oldragger, are you using 15-40 in winter too?
#892
#893
I don't have a gauge for the exact oil temps. But I can tell you that when I was running with the 5-20, the fans would stay on after shutdown almost every single drive. The switch to 10-40 changed that and they now only stay on if I'm driving the rpms hard - I actually thought for a couple of days that my fan relay might be dead. Even with the 10-40, when the ambient temp was up around 115, I could go out to my car at lunch which is 3 stories underground (but with ambient air), the gauge would show that the car was already at operating temperature immediately on startup. The 15-40 with the current ambient temp of about 108 requires a minute or two of driving to get up to operating temperature.
For my recent change, I lifted the right side and then the left to drain the coolers as much as possible, and I also added 4 oz of MMO to the crankcase which I figure should be okay since the oil is so much heavier.
For my recent change, I lifted the right side and then the left to drain the coolers as much as possible, and I also added 4 oz of MMO to the crankcase which I figure should be okay since the oil is so much heavier.
#894
Registered User
I don't have a gauge for the exact oil temps. But I can tell you that when I was running with the 5-20, the fans would stay on after shutdown almost every single drive. The switch to 10-40 changed that and they now only stay on if I'm driving the rpms hard - I actually thought for a couple of days that my fan relay might be dead. Even with the 10-40, when the ambient temp was up around 115, I could go out to my car at lunch which is 3 stories underground (but with ambient air), the gauge would show that the car was already at operating temperature immediately on startup. The 15-40 with the current ambient temp of about 108 requires a minute or two of driving to get up to operating temperature.
For my recent change, I lifted the right side and then the left to drain the coolers as much as possible, and I also added 4 oz of MMO to the crankcase which I figure should be okay since the oil is so much heavier.
For my recent change, I lifted the right side and then the left to drain the coolers as much as possible, and I also added 4 oz of MMO to the crankcase which I figure should be okay since the oil is so much heavier.
#895
The fans staying active after the car shuts off has little to do with the actual oil temperature of the vehicle. The fans are activated by your coolant temperature and I've seen enough variation in when they stay on or off that it's not capable of giving much information.
Unless you have a gauge capable of reading oil temperature you could have something else going on and never know it.
Unless you have a gauge capable of reading oil temperature you could have something else going on and never know it.
#897
In most cases the oil and coolant will run at the same temperature because they both serve as a cooling source for the engine. However, without the ability to monitor either your water temp or oil temp there is very little information to make any conclusion about.
The dummy water temp gauge hits middle between 165 and 180 degrees. After that it doesn't even begin to move until your around 215 or 220 degrees. And of course there is no oil temperature gauge built in.
The point is, you can't make any objective decisions about your operating temperatures without having an ability to measure them. The dummy stock gauges don't tell you much of anything.
#900
Oil presssure would freak people out because they wouldn't know what it means and in the past too many people complained their pressure gauge went up and down all the time.
Coolant is much the same thing. The average driver won't know what to make of the information so it's just a dummy gauge.
A set of electric gauges, pod and sensor adapters would run you about $350. It's a pretty worthwhile investment to have that information on tap.