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Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion

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Old 08-26-2009, 08:13 PM
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im going with the racing beat gauges
Old 08-26-2009, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by invasion08
Unless you have a coolant temp and oil temp guage there is no way to prove that a heavier oil weight lowers your engine temperature.
True, and while I'm all for empirical evidence, I'm not actually trying to prove anything as fact here. I would if I could, but I'm not going to spend $350 on gauges here just for this thread. Perhaps someone in a hot climate could do a test of 5-20 vs. 10-40 or 15-40 diesel and post the coolant temps. The fact that my fans instantaneously went from always on after driving with 5-20 to only staying on after driving maybe once per day, is good enough evidence for me. When I made the switch to 10-40, I made no other alterations to the car or my driving habits.
Old 08-26-2009, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Spirograph
I would if I could, but I'm not going to spend $350 on gauges here just for this thread. Perhaps someone in a hot climate could do a test of 5-20 vs. 10-40 or 15-40 diesel and post the coolant temps.
Often the only way to find out the solution of the problem is to do it yourself. If using your current oil makes you happy then that's fine!
Old 09-11-2009, 04:16 PM
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so synthetic is okay to use? any brand with the best, cleanest burn?
Old 09-11-2009, 05:38 PM
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hihihi
Old 09-12-2009, 03:37 AM
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Ι started using this promising 100% synthetic oil.

I have changed my dino oil and used amsoil now but I only managed to drain 4.2 liters of the old oil. I guess that the rest of the old oil is mixed with synthetic oil.

Should I change my oils again at a very short interval so that I will run with a very clear synthetic oil (no mixed state)? If yes what is the interval (millage) you recommend ???
Old 09-12-2009, 10:20 AM
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i would not run syn in your car, but who really knows anymore
Old 09-12-2009, 11:10 AM
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^ why not running syn in my car?
Old 09-12-2009, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
so synthetic is okay to use? any brand with the best, cleanest burn?
Use it.

stop being a wuss about it

I dont get it, it works for all older rotary engines, its same freaking seals and crap, and people are being ***** about it on Renesis. sad.
Old 09-12-2009, 11:38 AM
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dealerships dont want you to run syn, so just on the safe side im not so i can get my new engine that im sure everyone will need before 100k
Old 09-12-2009, 12:07 PM
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^ warranty has expired for me in Greece, so dino or syn it is the same for the dealer
Old 09-12-2009, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ferg
dealerships dont want you to run syn, so just on the safe side im not so i can get my new engine that im sure everyone will need before 100k
Just dont tell them you running synth and they wont know...

They cant and wont run a test to check if its dino or synth
Old 09-13-2009, 01:38 AM
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it seems to me that switching to a heavier weight oil would make the engine work harder and therefore reduce fuel economy.
Old 09-13-2009, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rx8t20046sp
it seems to me that switching to a heavier weight oil would make the engine work harder and therefore reduce fuel economy.
Thank you Mr. EPA.

Now lets get back to talking about protecting our engines, not 1 mpg saving.
Old 09-14-2009, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ferg
dealerships dont want you to run syn, so just on the safe side im not so i can get my new engine that im sure everyone will need before 100k
I called my service manager and asked about this. I wanted to run Royal Purple 5W-30. He spoke to his rotary mechanic and they agreed that this oil and weight were better for the car than what the dealer uses. They agreed that I can buy the oil and bring it in for the oil changes with no warranty issues to worry about.
Old 09-14-2009, 12:42 PM
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Just the facts, please...

I have followed this thread for years. Here are the facts involved.

Mazda does not want you to use semi or full synthetic oil if your car is equipped with a catalytic converter. Unless you race your car without the converter, which, I'm sure, the vast majority of you don't, use the 5W-20 conventional oil listed in your owner's manual.

Why no synthetic?

Because it may not burn off entirely during combustion, and cause fouling of the cat converter and other parts of the engine. That can lead to all sorts of other problems.

This is first-hand from Mazda North America to me. Not from "Customer Assistance". They do not dispute that synthetics are the way to go for racing. You can see synthetic sponsored logos on Mazda Factory supported race cars. The engines on these cars are often broken down after several races to ensure that they are in peak performance for the next series of races. That is what is common in the world of racing.

If you look at the page in your owner's manual, I currently have a '09, it states not to use synthetic. The '09 manual also states that the use of synthetics can cause starting performance problems. I have not asked Mazda NA why, 'cause I won't use synthetics until allowed to do so by Mazda in writing. At of this time, I don't see that happening anytime soon.

As far as oil weight, I would stay with 5W-20 unless the average temperature where you live is over 100 degrees, as shown in your owner's manual. At those temperatures, although Mazda has no recommendation in the manual, I would think that 5W-30 would do fine.

I have not asked Mazda NA about that either; just my thoughts.

Now, although problems with earlier RX 8s have to do with seals, which are of course lubricated with oil, Mazda still wants you to work with them and use 5W-20 as opposed to all the other weights mentioned, including of all things, diesel weight and, the pre-mix concepts that some people rave about.

Why?

Again, despite earlier problems with the Renesis engine, the oil injection system was designed to work best with 5W-20. Oil injection is a somewhat imprecise program, based in part on what you are asking your engine to do when your foot is on the gas, and when it’s off the gas.

It’s one thing for the injection system to deal with just one specified factory weight oil, let alone all the other concoctions out there, so why not work with what Mazda suggests you to do so. At the end of the day, if you provide proof via receipts that you purchased what was recommended by Mazda, Mazda will do everything reasonable to protect your investment. They did extend the warranty to all RX-8s to 8 years/100,000 miles or something like that didn’t they?

I personally wonder how many engines were screwed up by using other than recommended oil in addition to seal issues.

As further proof not to use synthetics, here are the policies from the leading oil manufactures relayed to Mazda rotary engines and synthetic oil.

First listed are the statements, and the link you can go to yourself, if in doubt.



Ask Mobil

Using Mobil 1 in a Mazda Rotary Engine

Ask Your Stickiest Question. . . Or ask us something you’ve always wanted to know about using our products. We’ll sort through all the submissions and present the best questions to our automotive experts. The questions, and their answers, will post right here on the site.

Question:
Using Mobil 1 in a Mazda Rotary Engine
I have a 2005 Mazda RX-8. This has a rotary engine, which injects oil into its intake path. Can I use Mobil 1 without risk of incomplete oil burn and or buildup?
-- Matt Hejnas, Central Valley, NY


Answer:
Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in its rotary engines. To help maintain your vehicle's warranty coverage, we suggest that you follow your car builder's engine oil recommendation.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...ry_Engine.aspx



From Castrol

Synthetic products are not recommended in rotary engines. A number of years ago, Mazda evaluated the performance of synthetic oils and determined that their characteristics may result in lower compression pressure or excess oil consumption due to insufficient lubrication of special seals and the rotor surface. In fact, the recommendation against the use of synthetics continues to stand for their RX7and RX8 rotary engines today. We cannot recommend the use of Castrol SYNTEC and SYNTEC Blend in Mazda rotary engines because we respect the decision made by Mazda

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7027529





I also spoke with the people from Quaker State/Pennzoil, and they concur.

I use Pennzoil 5W-20 conventional oil because I can find it in almost any supermarket or chain drug store, and Wal-Mart’s sells it in 5 quart jugs, which is exactly what a '09 engine with the new larger filter needs to refill the engine after an oil/oil filter change.


Enjoy your car!

RX Rocks

Last edited by rxrocks; 09-14-2009 at 01:03 PM.
Old 09-14-2009, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rxrocks
I have followed this thread for years. Here are the facts involved.
Your crap are not facts. in "fact" they're nothing but your utter bullshit.

Mazda does not want you to use semi or full synthetic oil if your car is equipped with a catalytic converter. Unless you race your car without the converter, which, I'm sure, the vast majority of you don't, use the 5W-20 conventional oil listed in your owner's manual.
LMAO. LOL !

what a dumbass.

Cuz its easier to say "No" then to test everything on the market. DUH.

Why no synthetic?
see above.

Because it may not burn off entirely during combustion, and cause fouling of the cat converter and other parts of the engine. That can lead to all sorts of other problems.
Another Utter bullshit. Have you even look at a tear down of running pure PAO/Ester Synthetic and Pure Dino/Mineral? the result is actually "opposite" of what you said.

This is first-hand from Mazda North America to me. Not from "Customer Assistance". They do not dispute that synthetics are the way to go for racing. You can see synthetic sponsored logos on Mazda Factory supported race cars. The engines on these cars are often broken down after several races to ensure that they are in peak performance for the next series of races. That is what is common in the world of racing.
First hand from Mazda north America? lmao.

http://www.mazda.co.jp/service/parts...e_renesis.html

Please see this. and please shut up already.

if you look at the page in your owner's manual, I currently have a '09, it states not to use synthetic. The '09 manual also states that the use of synthetics can cause starting performance problems. I have not asked Mazda NA why, 'cause I won't use synthetics until allowed to do so by Mazda in writing. At of this time, I don't see that happening anytime soon.
Again, explain the last reply.

As far as oil weight, I would stay with 5W-20 unless the average temperature where you live is over 100 degrees, as shown in your owner's manual. At those temperatures, although Mazda has no recommendation in the manual, I would think that 5W-30 would do fine.
You would stay cuz you know nothing about how this engine works. OMG USE HEAVIER THAN 5w20 THE SKY IS FALLING AHHH RUN FOR UR LIVESSSS !

I have not asked Mazda NA about that either; just my thoughts.
you mean it came out of your ***

Now, although problems with earlier RX 8s have to do with seals, which are of course lubricated with oil, Mazda still wants you to work with them and use 5W-20 as opposed to all the other weights mentioned, [U]including of all things, diesel weight and, the pre-mix concepts that some people rave about.
Do you speak for Mazda? Do you own Mazda ?

5w20 is a joke. period.

they use it because it gives you the best MPG, when you're talking about millions of cars every year, every freaking % of mpg counts.

Why?

Again, despite earlier problems with the Renesis engine, the oil injection system was designed to work best with 5W-20. Oil injection is a somewhat imprecise program, based in part on what you are asking your engine to do when your foot is on the gas, and when it’s off the gas.

It’s one thing for the injection system to deal with just one specified factory weight oil, let alone all the other concoctions out there, so why not work with what Mazda suggests you to do so. At the end of the day, if you provide proof via receipts that you purchased what was recommended by Mazda, Mazda will do everything reasonable to protect your investment. They did extend the warranty to all RX-8s to 8 years/100,000 miles or something like that didn’t they?
MuHAhahahahahahahahahahahahah OMG you're not serious do you ? LMAO !

they did it because they know they fuxked up (ECU/OMP design) and they want to save the brand image. DUH. You never had any marketing class did u ?

I personally wonder how many engines were screwed up by using other than recommended oil in addition to seal issues.
I personally know that a lot of engines were screwed cuz of the "recommended" oil weight.

As further proof not to use synthetics, here are the policies from the leading oil manufactures related to Mazda rotary engines and synthetic oil.

First listed are the statements, and the link you can go to yourself, if in doubt.

Using Mobil 1 in a Mazda Rotary Engine

Ask Your Stickiest Question. . .

Or ask us something you’ve always wanted to know about using our products. We’ll sort through all the submissions and present the best questions to our automotive experts. The questions, and their answers, will post right here on the site.

Question:
Using Mobil 1 in a Mazda Rotary Engine
I have a 2005 Mazda RX-8. This has a rotary engine, which injects oil into its intake path. Can I use Mobil 1 without risk of incomplete oil burn and or buildup?
-- Matt Hejnas, Central Valley, NY

Answer:
Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in its rotary engines. To help maintain your vehicle's warranty coverage, we suggest that you follow your car builder's engine oil recommendation.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mobil1_Mazda_Rotary_Engine.aspx



From Castrol

Synthetic products are not recommended in rotary engines. A number of years ago, Mazda evaluated the performance of synthetic oils and determined that their characteristics may result in lower compression pressure or excess oil consumption due to insufficient lubrication of special seals and the rotor surface. In fact, the recommendation against the use of synthetics continues to stand for their RX7and RX8 rotary engines today. We cannot recommend the use of Castrol SYNTEC and SYNTEC Blend in Mazda rotary engines because we respect the decision made by Mazda

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=82915731&contentId=7027529


I personally spoke with the people from Quaker State/Pennzoil, and they agree.

I use Pennzoil 5W-20 conventional oil because I can find it in almost any supermarket or chain drug store, and Walmart's sells it in 5 quart jugs, which is exactly what an '09 engine with the new larger filter needs to refil the engine after an oil/oil filter change.


Enjoy your car!

RX Rocks
You're done? Thanks

Oil companies will only "recommend" the "recommend" weight to buyers. its the same for EVERY car. this is the best way to avoid any potential lawsuit. DUH.

Just facts please? the fact is that you got no facts. nothing. to back your claims up. All you got is bullshit from here and there. Rotary community HAS BEEN USING Synthetic AND Heavier weight oil for 30+ years. Those experience > your so called "facts" lmao.

Seriously, stop posting BS. We dont need more bullshit and rumors in the community.

Last edited by nycgps; 09-14-2009 at 01:13 PM.
Old 09-14-2009, 12:59 PM
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lol
Old 09-14-2009, 01:09 PM
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mr. synthetic

FYI

シンセレネシスは、RENESIS専用のマツダ純正オイルです。ベースオイルはPAO※を主成分としてエス テルを配合した100%化学合成油であり、RENESISに適した性状のものを採用しています 。
粘度はスポーツカーのエンジンに求められる走行性能に適した0W-30に設定しています。
※PAO:Polyalpha-Olefin(ポリアルファオレフィン)の頭文字をとった化学合成物質
Old 09-14-2009, 01:10 PM
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5w-20.... Whatever.

You can have my 10w-40 when you pry it from my cold dead rotors.
Old 09-14-2009, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rxrocks
FYI

シンセレネシスは、RENESIS専用のマツダ純正オイルです。ベースオイルはPAO※を主成分としてエス テルを配合した100%化学合成油であり、RENESISに適した性状のものを採用しています 。
粘度はスポーツカーのエンジンに求められる走行性能に適した0W-30に設定しています。
※PAO:Polyalpha-Olefin(ポリアルファオレフィン)の頭文字をとった化学合成物質

Yes I know what that means.

So you want to explain them to me ?
Old 09-14-2009, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Your crap are not facts. in "fact" they're nothing but your utter bullshit.



LMAO. LOL !

what a dumbass.

Cuz its easier to say "No" then to test everything on the market. DUH.



see above.



Another Utter bullshit. Have you even look at a tear down of running pure PAO/Ester Synthetic and Pure Dino/Mineral? the result is actually "opposite" of what you said.



First hand from Mazda north America? lmao.

http://www.mazda.co.jp/service/parts...e_renesis.html

Please see this. and please shut up already.



Again, explain the last reply.



You would stay cuz you know nothing about how this engine works. OMG USE HEAVIER THAN 5w20 THE SKY IS FALLING AHHH RUN FOR UR LIVESSSS !



you mean it came out of your ***



Do you speak for Mazda? Do you own Mazda ?

5w20 is a joke. period.

they use it because it gives you the best MPG, when you're talking about millions of cars every year, every freaking % of mpg counts.



MuHAhahahahahahahahahahahahah OMG you're not serious do you ? LMAO !

they did it because they know they fuxked up (ECU/OMP design) and they want to save the brand image. DUH. You never had any marketing class did u ?



I personally know that a lot of engines were screwed cuz of the "recommended" oil weight.



You're done? Thanks

Oil companies will only "recommend" the "recommend" weight to buyers. its the same for EVERY car. this is the best way to avoid any potential lawsuit. DUH.

Just facts please? the fact is that you got no facts. nothing. to back your claims up. All you got is bullshit from here and there. Rotary community HAS BEEN USING Synthetic AND Heavier weight oil for 30+ years. Those experience > your so called "facts" lmao.

Seriously, stop posting BS. We dont need more bullshit and rumors in the community.
Dear nycgps,

Thank you very much for your kind words towards me in your response to my post. I relished every one of them.

It seems that, even in this age of enlightenment, there are still ignoramuses and govt. “conspiracy” believers (yes. I noticed some of that in your more than 11,000 posts on this forum) such as yourself spreading misinformation.

Despite my direct links to statements by the major oil makers and Mazda’s cautionary note pertaining to ’09 RX 8s, you continue your tirade against anyone you disagree with. You have no documentation from either Mazda or the oil makers substantiating your claims. And that stupid little poster you posted… give me brake, please, huh?

With over 11,000 posts, this tells me that perhaps you should consider getting a life outside the forum, perhaps a knitting club. That might be more therapeutic for you.

Bye bye!
Old 09-14-2009, 10:57 PM
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I would be directing questions to the guys here who have actually rebuilt rotaries and the RENESIS, which actually has the exact same rotor and stationary gear bearings and clearances as the 1985 FC RX-7.

None of these guys like the 5W20 oils as they have witnessed and shown (pics) of Stationary Gear Bearings that are worn down to the copper at 50K miles, once unheard of until now with the use of low weight engine oils...which have to be a semi-synthetic blend to get that low.

When all these engines were failing in Nevada and other Hot areas a 3-4 years ago, I said it is the engine oil, I got flamed..even by my mate nygps.

Once the guys doing the rebuilds had seen the bearings, they agreed that a 5W20 does not cut it.

Rotaries are a lot different to "Bangers" as you get oil dilution far quicker from fuel wash, the engine oil may be fine when new, but after a few thousand miles it is watery crap.

You have to remember "most" RX-8 owners are not 'enthusiasts' and don't do their own oil changes before the scheduled or recommended service intervals.

The US is the only market that stipulates a 5W20 only oil, the only reason is fuel economy.

Most other markets say a 5W30, as does Australia, BUT, in the Owners manual it says you can use any oil weight range depending on your climate.

Personally, I would much rather see you guys change your oil more frequently and use a higher weight oil, as even after 2K miles your oil is not at the original oil weight.

If you insist on using a 5W20, replace oil more frequently.

Don't forget you are also leaving behind about 35% of OLD Oil in your oil coolers and lines.

If you want to use Dino (like me) use a 10 or 15W40., even 20W50. (Particularly High Milers)
Semi-Synthetic use 5W30 as a minimum.
Fully Synthetic ( I am not fan of 0W weight oils because of additives and cost), I would again prefer more frequent changes.

Don't forget all the metal particles floating around that the Oil Filter does not catch, and it is HEAPS, use an oil filter or sump plug magnet as Mazda reintroduce their internal sump magnet in Series II RX-8's, the same magnet used in the 1985 FC RX-7.

2004-08 RX-8's have NO magnetic metal catcher at all.

So again the longer you leave your oil in the sump (miles) the more Metal moving through engine.

I know some of you won't like what I say, and naturally if you live in a Freezing cold/Snow/Ice climate ( and use your RX-8) you have to think of your minimum oil weight requirements.

Virtually ALL oil weights will work OK at -30 below anyway.

Last edited by ASH8; 09-14-2009 at 11:06 PM.
Old 09-14-2009, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rxrocks
Dear nycgps,

Thank you very much for your kind words towards me in your response to my post. I relished every one of them.

It seems that, even in this age of enlightenment, there are still ignoramuses and govt. “conspiracy” believers (yes. I noticed some of that in your more than 11,000 posts on this forum) such as yourself spreading misinformation.

Despite my direct links to statements by the major oil makers and Mazda’s cautionary note pertaining to ’09 RX 8s, you continue your tirade against anyone you disagree with. You have no documentation from either Mazda or the oil makers substantiating your claims. And that stupid little poster you posted… give me brake, please, huh?

With over 11,000 posts, this tells me that perhaps you should consider getting a life outside the forum, perhaps a knitting club. That might be more therapeutic for you.

Bye bye!
Old 09-14-2009, 11:16 PM
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In my opinion (which doesn't really mean ****), It's a combination of many things. Using Synthetic oils is not enough, running heavier oil is not enough, and timely oil changes is not enough.

But hopefully my many magnets, GC 0W-30, 3k max out OIC's (as always), Oil Cooler vent mod, Oil testing (which may be useless from what I have read lately but we shall see), and constant monitoring and changing my plan as needed will help my engine last and perform flawlessly.

The biggest thing I want to know is just how m oil is standing up to the harsh rotary environment.


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