Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
09-18-2009, 12:17 AM
#976
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A 15w-40 has the same operational temperature viscosity as a 10w-40 so any "breakdown" would technically be the same between the two. I don't see any reason to bother running diesel oil as gasoline oil contains plenty of detergents. There's no proof to suggest the rotary would benefit from an increased amount.
09-18-2009, 08:48 AM
#977
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The last word (ha, ha)
Finally, some civility in these discussions!
As mentioned in the last few posts, everyone has their opinion of what works and protects the Renesis best. I have faith in those from whom I get my information.
Unfortunately, as described by one of you in an earlier post, in many cases of imminent engine failure, there is a period of declining power over time.
Some of you may be more aware of this decline than others.
Should you feel that at any time your engine has less "kick" than when it was new, open this link.
It’s the TSB from MNAO describing the procedure that a dealer should use to determine if the engine should be replaced.
Caution... some of the issues included are not for the faint of heart, 
including the graphic description of problems with the Oil Metering System.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-014-08-1924g.pdf
Those of you using other than dino 5W-20, pre-mix etc. in a CAT equipped, non-race RX8, should print out the TSB and keep it in your glove compartment, since your engine is going straight to Rotary Hell at some point.
Repent Ye Sinners
As mentioned in the last few posts, everyone has their opinion of what works and protects the Renesis best. I have faith in those from whom I get my information.
Unfortunately, as described by one of you in an earlier post, in many cases of imminent engine failure, there is a period of declining power over time.
Some of you may be more aware of this decline than others.
Should you feel that at any time your engine has less "kick" than when it was new, open this link.
It’s the TSB from MNAO describing the procedure that a dealer should use to determine if the engine should be replaced.
Caution... some of the issues included are not for the faint of heart, including the graphic description of problems with the Oil Metering System. http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-014-08-1924g.pdf
Those of you using other than dino 5W-20, pre-mix etc. in a CAT equipped, non-race RX8, should print out the TSB and keep it in your glove compartment, since your engine is going straight to Rotary Hell at some point.
Repent Ye Sinners
09-18-2009, 09:45 AM
#978
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Spriograph,
I too will be doing oil analysis with my new engine but unfortunately I have read a lot of thing lately that for the most part proves they are bullshit. One guy i talked to sent teh same oil to three different testing facilities at teh same time and got three totally different test results. Then he sent the same exact sample back again to the same companies a second time and got very varying results as well.
The key is finding a legit place to test it. I will try Blackstone and another facility I found even though Blackstone was one included in that guys test and others. But I'm not gonna put a ton of faith in it
I too will be doing oil analysis with my new engine but unfortunately I have read a lot of thing lately that for the most part proves they are bullshit. One guy i talked to sent teh same oil to three different testing facilities at teh same time and got three totally different test results. Then he sent the same exact sample back again to the same companies a second time and got very varying results as well.
The key is finding a legit place to test it. I will try Blackstone and another facility I found even though Blackstone was one included in that guys test and others. But I'm not gonna put a ton of faith in it
09-18-2009, 05:49 PM
#979
Super Moderator
rxrocks,
Just some advice, there is little point in "Baiting Members" with sarcasm..I am apparently the king of that (its' and Australian thing)..your "last Word' is not very funny at all.
You are not posing ANYTHING new..there is plenty of information if you look backwards.
You are only going to get the same old replies to the same old BORING ******* QUESTION..
So KNOCK IT OFF!..please..
Just some advice, there is little point in "Baiting Members" with sarcasm..I am apparently the king of that (its' and Australian thing)..your "last Word' is not very funny at all.
You are not posing ANYTHING new..there is plenty of information if you look backwards.
You are only going to get the same old replies to the same old BORING ******* QUESTION..
So KNOCK IT OFF!..please..
09-18-2009, 06:01 PM
#980
Super Moderator
I only just picked this up....ARRRR ARRRR ARRRR, you are more than welcome to try
Yep, you are correct, the No.1 issue was Mazda's failure to Lube the Middle of the Apex Seal, they thought that pointing the two outward dribblers it would make it's way into the middle of seal..
Did they not do enough test's to see it was not enough?, after all Every other rotary in the past 20 years has Always had a middle Injector/dribbler.
All this Bloody cost and Damaged Reputation...AGAIN...It won't survive another one..IMO
Yep, you are correct, the No.1 issue was Mazda's failure to Lube the Middle of the Apex Seal, they thought that pointing the two outward dribblers it would make it's way into the middle of seal..
Did they not do enough test's to see it was not enough?, after all Every other rotary in the past 20 years has Always had a middle Injector/dribbler.
All this Bloody cost and Damaged Reputation...AGAIN...It won't survive another one..IMO
Yep, I'm not certain syn vs. dino makes any difference if your change your oil like clock work an frequently. I did (still do) change my oil like clock work at 3k and two engines have failed (one with syn, one with Dino). I believe, wait no, I know, the center apex seals are not getting lubricated enough and it is the prime culprit in failures, not oil choice. Is synthetic better than Dino in terms of durability?
I will eat my words and now say yes for the most part while also stating that I believe some good Dino oils are almost as good as lower end synthetics.
But in the end, if that center part of the seal does not get lubricated then the engine will fail prematurely. This is why on my new engine I run a good synthetic, premix, and will be injecting clean premix as well via the OMP (when SOHN is installed this weekend).
If that doesn't work then I will fly to Australia for a vacation and while I am there, I will steal ASH's third oil injector,
I will eat my words and now say yes for the most part while also stating that I believe some good Dino oils are almost as good as lower end synthetics.
But in the end, if that center part of the seal does not get lubricated then the engine will fail prematurely. This is why on my new engine I run a good synthetic, premix, and will be injecting clean premix as well via the OMP (when SOHN is installed this weekend).
If that doesn't work then I will fly to Australia for a vacation and while I am there, I will steal ASH's third oil injector,
09-18-2009, 06:07 PM
#981
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Spriograph,
I too will be doing oil analysis with my new engine but unfortunately I have read a lot of thing lately that for the most part proves they are bullshit. One guy i talked to sent teh same oil to three different testing facilities at teh same time and got three totally different test results. Then he sent the same exact sample back again to the same companies a second time and got very varying results as well.
The key is finding a legit place to test it. I will try Blackstone and another facility I found even though Blackstone was one included in that guys test and others. But I'm not gonna put a ton of faith in it
I too will be doing oil analysis with my new engine but unfortunately I have read a lot of thing lately that for the most part proves they are bullshit. One guy i talked to sent teh same oil to three different testing facilities at teh same time and got three totally different test results. Then he sent the same exact sample back again to the same companies a second time and got very varying results as well.
The key is finding a legit place to test it. I will try Blackstone and another facility I found even though Blackstone was one included in that guys test and others. But I'm not gonna put a ton of faith in it
Regarding the UOA's showing the various oils and 10w-40 breaking down...a lot of that is going to depend on the type of oil you're buying and not so much the viscosity. The viscosity is only one part of the puzzle with engine oils.
The main aspects of your UOA should tell you how often you need to change your oil as well as help detect any major issues.
rxrocks,
Just some advice, there is little point in "Baiting Members" with sarcasm..I am apparently the king of that (its' and Australian thing)..your "last Word' is not very funny at all.
You are not posing ANYTHING new..there is plenty of information if you look backwards.
You are only going to get the same old replies to the same old BORING ******* QUESTION..
So KNOCK IT OFF!..please..
Just some advice, there is little point in "Baiting Members" with sarcasm..I am apparently the king of that (its' and Australian thing)..your "last Word' is not very funny at all.
You are not posing ANYTHING new..there is plenty of information if you look backwards.
You are only going to get the same old replies to the same old BORING ******* QUESTION..
So KNOCK IT OFF!..please..
09-18-2009, 07:53 PM
#983
now u guys see the reason why I stopped replying to that dumbass ?
talking to him is like talking to a wall ---- it will never understand you.
He doesnt even know how this engine and the whole system works. and he still still STILL STILL STILL never answered my question. what a douchebag.
---The End---
talking to him is like talking to a wall ---- it will never understand you.
He doesnt even know how this engine and the whole system works. and he still still STILL STILL STILL never answered my question. what a douchebag.
---The End---
Last edited by nycgps; 09-18-2009 at 07:57 PM.
09-18-2009, 08:03 PM
#984
Super Moderator
MMMmm..the END.
09-19-2009, 09:11 PM
#985
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now u guys see the reason why I stopped replying to that dumbass ?
talking to him is like talking to a wall ---- it will never understand you.
He doesnt even know how this engine and the whole system works. and he still still STILL STILL STILL never answered my question. what a douchebag.
---The End---
talking to him is like talking to a wall ---- it will never understand you.
He doesnt even know how this engine and the whole system works. and he still still STILL STILL STILL never answered my question. what a douchebag.
---The End---
nycgps, at 12,057 posts and counting, get a life, man
re your little poster, why don't you translate it word for word, since you have nothing better to say here except to display your ignorance of what you are talking about;
worse, based upon closer review of most of your earlier posts prior to mine, your obnoxoius, boorish, bullying attitude 
far outweighs your "contributions" if any, to this site.
09-19-2009, 09:47 PM
#986
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
You have to realise that you are a very recent new member, coming in waving an old MNAO TSB, like nobody but you is privy to these......
Can you not understand how a member like ASH or NYCGPS might react?
S
Can you not understand how a member like ASH or NYCGPS might react?
S
09-19-2009, 09:57 PM
#987
nycgps, at 12,057 posts and counting, get a life, man
re your little poster, why don't you translate it word for word, since you have nothing better to say here except to display your ignorance of what you are talking about;worse, based upon closer review of most of your earlier posts prior to mine, your obnoxoius, boorish, bullying attitude far outweighs your "contributions" if any, to this site.
re your little poster, why don't you translate it word for word, since you have nothing better to say here except to display your ignorance of what you are talking about;
worse, based upon closer review of most of your earlier posts prior to mine, your obnoxoius, boorish, bullying attitude far outweighs your "contributions" if any, to this site.lmao. get lost. you failed.
you still havent answer my "Mazda Japan Synthetic Oil" question you smart ***.
09-19-2009, 11:05 PM
#992
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This recent post from Nubo…and the one below it from Flashwing are amongst some of the more interesting points re. synth vs dino. ASH8 has provided information of value as well.
As for me, I will continue to use dino 5W-20 based upon my discuissions with those responsible for the RX8 program at MNAO.
They have no problem with synth for non-cat equipped engines in the world of racing.
When I asked about all the pro-synth, pre-mix users here, they simply said, “yeah, we monitor the site”.
And, from this point, so will I. And I’m going to spend my time enjoying driving one of the most awesome production cars cars ever made
and looking at some of the DIY posts which, are, for the most part, far more useful than this thread. 
From Nubo
“No doubt about it, they are the experts on rotary engines. However, they operate in a very complex arena. Just because a recommendation exists does not lead to a certain conclusion about why.
Mazda is schizophrenic on the synthetic issue. Sometimes it's a recommendation, sometimes not, they give all kinds of hedgy explanations about "not having tested all synthetics".... Which begs the question, have they tested all non-synthetics? In my opinion, this question has achieved cult status within Mazda, just as here. Which leads to curiosity on the part of enthusiasts, who send letters to MNAO. They get tired of it, and it's easier to to say NO. Just like it's easier to install a fake oil pressure gauge. Is that best for the car? No, it's best for Mazda.
Anway, the "warning" is about as innocuous as it gets. "...engine starting performance could worsen". Kinda puts the fear of God into you, lol. One can logically infer that operating performance and engine life is unaffected. Now, my engine is still starting fine after over 40,000 miles on synthetic oil (and a few thousand on non-synth). Maybe tomorrow it will die. Or engine starting performance could worsen. If so, it will have lasted longer than many who used the mythical 5W20 non-synthetic (5W20 has to be at least semi-synthetic). Given the average life of these engines, imho engine oil is the least of its problems, unless you pre-mix (another Mazda-forbidden practice). So, probably not important, but it is interesting. Which is why this thread will never die
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From Flashwing
It's very simple.
The vast majority of mineral oils are designed using the same base stock oil and thus Mazda has a firm grasp on how those oils are going to work with the motor. The only real differences in mineral oils are the additive packages which vary by manufacturer.
Synthetics are not all created the same. You have synthetics that could be a Group III, IV, or V base stock. Throw in various different additive packages and you have too many combinations for Mazda to test for warranty purposes. It was easier to simply say NO to synthetic oils than to encourage the practice and risk a serious warranty situation.
Mazda has to create designs that work within the boundries of reality, budgets, environmental and political laws. As a result their suggestions are not always based on what is best for the life of the vehicle but what balances their warranty concerns, quality, performance within a budget.
Because owners are not bound by the same limitations we can make adjustments (at our own risk) which are in the best interests of the car.
As for me, I will continue to use dino 5W-20 based upon my discuissions with those responsible for the RX8 program at MNAO.
They have no problem with synth for non-cat equipped engines in the world of racing.
When I asked about all the pro-synth, pre-mix users here, they simply said, “yeah, we monitor the site”.
And, from this point, so will I. And I’m going to spend my time enjoying driving one of the most awesome production cars cars ever made
and looking at some of the DIY posts which, are, for the most part, far more useful than this thread. From Nubo
“No doubt about it, they are the experts on rotary engines. However, they operate in a very complex arena. Just because a recommendation exists does not lead to a certain conclusion about why.
Mazda is schizophrenic on the synthetic issue. Sometimes it's a recommendation, sometimes not, they give all kinds of hedgy explanations about "not having tested all synthetics".... Which begs the question, have they tested all non-synthetics? In my opinion, this question has achieved cult status within Mazda, just as here. Which leads to curiosity on the part of enthusiasts, who send letters to MNAO. They get tired of it, and it's easier to to say NO. Just like it's easier to install a fake oil pressure gauge. Is that best for the car? No, it's best for Mazda.
Anway, the "warning" is about as innocuous as it gets. "...engine starting performance could worsen". Kinda puts the fear of God into you, lol. One can logically infer that operating performance and engine life is unaffected. Now, my engine is still starting fine after over 40,000 miles on synthetic oil (and a few thousand on non-synth). Maybe tomorrow it will die. Or engine starting performance could worsen. If so, it will have lasted longer than many who used the mythical 5W20 non-synthetic (5W20 has to be at least semi-synthetic). Given the average life of these engines, imho engine oil is the least of its problems, unless you pre-mix (another Mazda-forbidden practice). So, probably not important, but it is interesting. Which is why this thread will never die
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From Flashwing
It's very simple.
The vast majority of mineral oils are designed using the same base stock oil and thus Mazda has a firm grasp on how those oils are going to work with the motor. The only real differences in mineral oils are the additive packages which vary by manufacturer.
Synthetics are not all created the same. You have synthetics that could be a Group III, IV, or V base stock. Throw in various different additive packages and you have too many combinations for Mazda to test for warranty purposes. It was easier to simply say NO to synthetic oils than to encourage the practice and risk a serious warranty situation.
Mazda has to create designs that work within the boundries of reality, budgets, environmental and political laws. As a result their suggestions are not always based on what is best for the life of the vehicle but what balances their warranty concerns, quality, performance within a budget.
Because owners are not bound by the same limitations we can make adjustments (at our own risk) which are in the best interests of the car.
Last edited by rxrocks; 09-19-2009 at 11:15 PM.
09-19-2009, 11:57 PM
#993
wankel my wanker
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I think only certain people should be allowed to post in this thread. If you have evidence based information that has not been posted before please present it by all means. If not shut the F*&% up.
Example would be you must read threads like this first and must be present your information in this fashion before you can post here or you will show your ignorance:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=synthetic
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/renesis-engine-issues-finally-identified-138114/
(by the way RG you would make an excellent physician this what we call evidence based medicine you implement this process on rotary beautifully.)
Sorry for posting in this thread. Because of my ignorance on the subject I should not be posting here as well (hint hint
rxrocks).
Example would be you must read threads like this first and must be present your information in this fashion before you can post here or you will show your ignorance:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=synthetic
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/renesis-engine-issues-finally-identified-138114/
(by the way RG you would make an excellent physician this what we call evidence based medicine you implement this process on rotary beautifully.)
Sorry for posting in this thread. Because of my ignorance on the subject I should not be posting here as well (hint hint
rxrocks).
09-20-2009, 12:11 AM
#994
another useless post from a useless person.
As far as I KNOW my manual saids NOTHING about Synthetic use. all I know is, Mazda Japan sell Synthe-Renesis Oil to Rotary owners in Japan. this is fact. so the "engine starting performance could worsen ..." becomes invalid right away.
Facts > "recommendation"
What am I doing? Im talking to a retard again. jeesus.
As far as I KNOW my manual saids NOTHING about Synthetic use. all I know is, Mazda Japan sell Synthe-Renesis Oil to Rotary owners in Japan. this is fact. so the "engine starting performance could worsen ..." becomes invalid right away.
Facts > "recommendation"
What am I doing? Im talking to a retard again. jeesus.
09-26-2009, 03:06 AM
#995
This recent post from Nubo…and the one below it from Flashwing are amongst some of the more interesting points re. synth vs dino. ASH8 has provided information of value as well.
As for me, I will continue to use dino 5W-20 based upon my discuissions with those responsible for the RX8 program at MNAO.
They have no problem with synth for non-cat equipped engines in the world of racing.
When I asked about all the pro-synth, pre-mix users here, they simply said, “yeah, we monitor the site”.
And, from this point, so will I. And I’m going to spend my time enjoying driving one of the most awesome production cars cars ever made and looking at some of the DIY posts which, are, for the most part, far more useful than this thread.
From Nubo
“No doubt about it, they are the experts on rotary engines. However, they operate in a very complex arena. Just because a recommendation exists does not lead to a certain conclusion about why.
Mazda is schizophrenic on the synthetic issue. Sometimes it's a recommendation, sometimes not, they give all kinds of hedgy explanations about "not having tested all synthetics".... Which begs the question, have they tested all non-synthetics? In my opinion, this question has achieved cult status within Mazda, just as here. Which leads to curiosity on the part of enthusiasts, who send letters to MNAO. They get tired of it, and it's easier to to say NO. Just like it's easier to install a fake oil pressure gauge. Is that best for the car? No, it's best for Mazda.
Anway, the "warning" is about as innocuous as it gets. "...engine starting performance could worsen". Kinda puts the fear of God into you, lol. One can logically infer that operating performance and engine life is unaffected. Now, my engine is still starting fine after over 40,000 miles on synthetic oil (and a few thousand on non-synth). Maybe tomorrow it will die. Or engine starting performance could worsen. If so, it will have lasted longer than many who used the mythical 5W20 non-synthetic (5W20 has to be at least semi-synthetic). Given the average life of these engines, imho engine oil is the least of its problems, unless you pre-mix (another Mazda-forbidden practice). So, probably not important, but it is interesting. Which is why this thread will never die
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From Flashwing
It's very simple.
The vast majority of mineral oils are designed using the same base stock oil and thus Mazda has a firm grasp on how those oils are going to work with the motor. The only real differences in mineral oils are the additive packages which vary by manufacturer.
Synthetics are not all created the same. You have synthetics that could be a Group III, IV, or V base stock. Throw in various different additive packages and you have too many combinations for Mazda to test for warranty purposes. It was easier to simply say NO to synthetic oils than to encourage the practice and risk a serious warranty situation.
Mazda has to create designs that work within the boundries of reality, budgets, environmental and political laws. As a result their suggestions are not always based on what is best for the life of the vehicle but what balances their warranty concerns, quality, performance within a budget.
Because owners are not bound by the same limitations we can make adjustments (at our own risk) which are in the best interests of the car.
As for me, I will continue to use dino 5W-20 based upon my discuissions with those responsible for the RX8 program at MNAO.
They have no problem with synth for non-cat equipped engines in the world of racing.
When I asked about all the pro-synth, pre-mix users here, they simply said, “yeah, we monitor the site”.
And, from this point, so will I. And I’m going to spend my time enjoying driving one of the most awesome production cars cars ever made
and looking at some of the DIY posts which, are, for the most part, far more useful than this thread. From Nubo
“No doubt about it, they are the experts on rotary engines. However, they operate in a very complex arena. Just because a recommendation exists does not lead to a certain conclusion about why.
Mazda is schizophrenic on the synthetic issue. Sometimes it's a recommendation, sometimes not, they give all kinds of hedgy explanations about "not having tested all synthetics".... Which begs the question, have they tested all non-synthetics? In my opinion, this question has achieved cult status within Mazda, just as here. Which leads to curiosity on the part of enthusiasts, who send letters to MNAO. They get tired of it, and it's easier to to say NO. Just like it's easier to install a fake oil pressure gauge. Is that best for the car? No, it's best for Mazda.
Anway, the "warning" is about as innocuous as it gets. "...engine starting performance could worsen". Kinda puts the fear of God into you, lol. One can logically infer that operating performance and engine life is unaffected. Now, my engine is still starting fine after over 40,000 miles on synthetic oil (and a few thousand on non-synth). Maybe tomorrow it will die. Or engine starting performance could worsen. If so, it will have lasted longer than many who used the mythical 5W20 non-synthetic (5W20 has to be at least semi-synthetic). Given the average life of these engines, imho engine oil is the least of its problems, unless you pre-mix (another Mazda-forbidden practice). So, probably not important, but it is interesting. Which is why this thread will never die
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From Flashwing
It's very simple.
The vast majority of mineral oils are designed using the same base stock oil and thus Mazda has a firm grasp on how those oils are going to work with the motor. The only real differences in mineral oils are the additive packages which vary by manufacturer.
Synthetics are not all created the same. You have synthetics that could be a Group III, IV, or V base stock. Throw in various different additive packages and you have too many combinations for Mazda to test for warranty purposes. It was easier to simply say NO to synthetic oils than to encourage the practice and risk a serious warranty situation.
Mazda has to create designs that work within the boundries of reality, budgets, environmental and political laws. As a result their suggestions are not always based on what is best for the life of the vehicle but what balances their warranty concerns, quality, performance within a budget.
Because owners are not bound by the same limitations we can make adjustments (at our own risk) which are in the best interests of the car.
wow,
sorry i am late on this..
but do you read? as to an oil forum this is not it. it is a rx8 forum.. some people here have a better clue about oil for an rx8 than others..
but if you have an oil question i would google bobistheoilguy
search rotary. then get back to us..
simple
read, learn.
search, learn more..
then google..
and if you are going to post up a tsb.. well be current! good god. i think that tsb is older than you..
beers
Last edited by swoope; 09-26-2009 at 03:08 AM.
09-28-2009, 12:25 PM
#997
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If anybody here is actually using synthetic, I would highly recommend looking through this PDF comparing different weights and brands. It won't tell you which will burn off better/cleaner, but at least you get an idea of the importance of the formulas and additives. I think I'll be switching to Royal Purple now...
Edit: it would probably help you guys if I included a link, huh?
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Edit: it would probably help you guys if I included a link, huh?
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
09-28-2009, 12:55 PM
#998
If anybody here is actually using synthetic, I would highly recommend looking through this PDF comparing different weights and brands. It won't tell you which will burn off better/cleaner, but at least you get an idea of the importance of the formulas and additives. I think I'll be switching to Royal Purple now...
Edit: it would probably help you guys if I included a link, huh?
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Edit: it would probably help you guys if I included a link, huh?
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
That test was a failed ... even the author admit it ...
next time, check the source first would you ?
Last edited by nycgps; 09-28-2009 at 02:56 PM.
09-28-2009, 02:53 PM
#999
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Spriograph,
I too will be doing oil analysis with my new engine but unfortunately I have read a lot of thing lately that for the most part proves they are bullshit. One guy i talked to sent teh same oil to three different testing facilities at teh same time and got three totally different test results. Then he sent the same exact sample back again to the same companies a second time and got very varying results as well.
The key is finding a legit place to test it. I will try Blackstone and another facility I found even though Blackstone was one included in that guys test and others. But I'm not gonna put a ton of faith in it
I too will be doing oil analysis with my new engine but unfortunately I have read a lot of thing lately that for the most part proves they are bullshit. One guy i talked to sent teh same oil to three different testing facilities at teh same time and got three totally different test results. Then he sent the same exact sample back again to the same companies a second time and got very varying results as well.
The key is finding a legit place to test it. I will try Blackstone and another facility I found even though Blackstone was one included in that guys test and others. But I'm not gonna put a ton of faith in it
09-29-2009, 12:32 AM
#1000
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yo, swoope,
bob the oil guy? the "definitive" oil guru ?
got any more?
yo, nycgps
congrats at reaching post #12,116!
As for your poster...post a letter from Japan with the name and department of your source stating that the synth pictured in your poster is for "stock" rotary engines, not track engines; in english. please. They can translate both ways.
Both of you...
I supported my posts with documentation from three oil companies, (Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil/Quaker State) and excerpts of warnings taken out of the 2009 US Owner's manual, against the use of synthetic/semisynthetic oils, and the temp range of 5W-20 oil suitable for use from -20 to 120 degrees F.
Where's your documention from?
Get real. This thread should have ended years ago. All you have to know is what's in the owner's manual; but, I guess, based on all your "theories", that it was written with the intention of having the engine wear out prematurely.
There's always another "conspiracy" out there for those looking for one.
bob the oil guy? the "definitive" oil guru ?
got any more?yo, nycgps
congrats at reaching post #12,116!
As for your poster...post a letter from Japan with the name and department of your source stating that the synth pictured in your poster is for "stock" rotary engines, not track engines; in english. please. They can translate both ways.
Both of you...
I supported my posts with documentation from three oil companies, (Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil/Quaker State) and excerpts of warnings taken out of the 2009 US Owner's manual, against the use of synthetic/semisynthetic oils, and the temp range of 5W-20 oil suitable for use from -20 to 120 degrees F.
Where's your documention from?
Get real. This thread should have ended years ago. All you have to know is what's in the owner's manual; but, I guess, based on all your "theories", that it was written with the intention of having the engine wear out prematurely.
There's always another "conspiracy" out there for those looking for one.