Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
#1001
Super Moderator
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...50157&posted=1
Most if not all engine oils are suitable for temps around -20-30c.
Most if not all engine oils are suitable for temps around -20-30c.
#1002
rxrocks,
I don't know if swoope and nycgps in particular provided specific documented facts in this increasingly galvanized thread, but I think you're too hung up on documentation by "authorities". You're really stuck on the idea of 5W-20 being the be all, end all, due to it's documented recommendation by MUSA. But what of the recommendations for the rest of the world of 5W-30 or higher? Obviously, the U.S.A. isn't a frozen continent unto itself, so if Europe is recommended to use a thicker weight oil, it stands to good reason that, yes indeed, 5W-20 is recommended due to strict emissions and 100k mile guarantee and MPG reasons in the U.S., despite the fact that it's not what's best for the Renesis engine.
Really, you need to stop blindly trusting documentations and recommendations from corporations and governments as though they have your best personal interests in mind. Humanity is basically evil, and when corporations and governments have consolidated and protected power, they become corrupt. That's not to say that they're rotten to the core, (although they may be), but it's to say; "Love your country, but question your government". In my opinion, a Patriot questions his government, whereas a Nationalist follows it blindly.
I don't know if swoope and nycgps in particular provided specific documented facts in this increasingly galvanized thread, but I think you're too hung up on documentation by "authorities". You're really stuck on the idea of 5W-20 being the be all, end all, due to it's documented recommendation by MUSA. But what of the recommendations for the rest of the world of 5W-30 or higher? Obviously, the U.S.A. isn't a frozen continent unto itself, so if Europe is recommended to use a thicker weight oil, it stands to good reason that, yes indeed, 5W-20 is recommended due to strict emissions and 100k mile guarantee and MPG reasons in the U.S., despite the fact that it's not what's best for the Renesis engine.
Really, you need to stop blindly trusting documentations and recommendations from corporations and governments as though they have your best personal interests in mind. Humanity is basically evil, and when corporations and governments have consolidated and protected power, they become corrupt. That's not to say that they're rotten to the core, (although they may be), but it's to say; "Love your country, but question your government". In my opinion, a Patriot questions his government, whereas a Nationalist follows it blindly.
#1003
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Montreal,QC
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yo, swoope,
bob the oil guy? the "definitive" oil guru ? got any more?
yo, nycgps
congrats at reaching post #12,116!
As for your poster...post a letter from Japan with the name and department of your source stating that the synth pictured in your poster is for "stock" rotary engines, not track engines; in english. please. They can translate both ways.
Both of you...
I supported my posts with documentation from three oil companies, (Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil/Quaker State) and excerpts of warnings taken out of the 2009 US Owner's manual, against the use of synthetic/semisynthetic oils, and the temp range of 5W-20 oil suitable for use from -20 to 120 degrees F.
Where's your documention from?
Get real. This thread should have ended years ago. All you have to know is what's in the owner's manual; but, I guess, based on all your "theories", that it was written with the intention of having the engine wear out prematurely.
There's always another "conspiracy" out there for those looking for one.
bob the oil guy? the "definitive" oil guru ? got any more?
yo, nycgps
congrats at reaching post #12,116!
As for your poster...post a letter from Japan with the name and department of your source stating that the synth pictured in your poster is for "stock" rotary engines, not track engines; in english. please. They can translate both ways.
Both of you...
I supported my posts with documentation from three oil companies, (Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil/Quaker State) and excerpts of warnings taken out of the 2009 US Owner's manual, against the use of synthetic/semisynthetic oils, and the temp range of 5W-20 oil suitable for use from -20 to 120 degrees F.
Where's your documention from?
Get real. This thread should have ended years ago. All you have to know is what's in the owner's manual; but, I guess, based on all your "theories", that it was written with the intention of having the engine wear out prematurely.
There's always another "conspiracy" out there for those looking for one.
Troll
Someone shut this idiot down.
#1004
rxrocks,
I don't know if swoope and nycgps in particular provided specific documented facts in this increasingly galvanized thread, but I think you're too hung up on documentation by "authorities". You're really stuck on the idea of 5W-20 being the be all, end all, due to it's documented recommendation by MUSA. But what of the recommendations for the rest of the world of 5W-30 or higher? Obviously, the U.S.A. isn't a frozen continent unto itself, so if Europe is recommended to use a thicker weight oil, it stands to good reason that, yes indeed, 5W-20 is recommended due to strict emissions and 100k mile guarantee and MPG reasons in the U.S., despite the fact that it's not what's best for the Renesis engine.
Really, you need to stop blindly trusting documentations and recommendations from corporations and governments as though they have your best personal interests in mind. Humanity is basically evil, and when corporations and governments have consolidated and protected power, they become corrupt. That's not to say that they're rotten to the core, (although they may be), but it's to say; "Love your country, but question your government". In my opinion, a Patriot questions his government, whereas a Nationalist follows it blindly.
I don't know if swoope and nycgps in particular provided specific documented facts in this increasingly galvanized thread, but I think you're too hung up on documentation by "authorities". You're really stuck on the idea of 5W-20 being the be all, end all, due to it's documented recommendation by MUSA. But what of the recommendations for the rest of the world of 5W-30 or higher? Obviously, the U.S.A. isn't a frozen continent unto itself, so if Europe is recommended to use a thicker weight oil, it stands to good reason that, yes indeed, 5W-20 is recommended due to strict emissions and 100k mile guarantee and MPG reasons in the U.S., despite the fact that it's not what's best for the Renesis engine.
Really, you need to stop blindly trusting documentations and recommendations from corporations and governments as though they have your best personal interests in mind. Humanity is basically evil, and when corporations and governments have consolidated and protected power, they become corrupt. That's not to say that they're rotten to the core, (although they may be), but it's to say; "Love your country, but question your government". In my opinion, a Patriot questions his government, whereas a Nationalist follows it blindly.
Whew! For the "record"; as per the owner's manual: 5W-20 is recommended, where synth/semi synth is not recommended.
Since the temp range of 5W-20 (-20 to 120F) covers most of North America, it works for me. Higher temps could use 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Some reading material that may be of interest. http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
#1006
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
Whew! For the "record"; as per the owner's manual: 5W-20 is recommended, where synth/semi synth is not recommended.
Since the temp range of 5W-20 (-20 to 120F) covers most of North America, it works for me. Higher temps could use 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Some reading material that may be of interest. http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
Since the temp range of 5W-20 (-20 to 120F) covers most of North America, it works for me. Higher temps could use 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Some reading material that may be of interest. http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
great info, those links and the owners manual.. who would look in that place?
here is my take.
in 120,000 miles with two motors i have run one all syn and one on dino..
premix on both with lots of different stuff.. so if you have a question about something that works or does not work send me a pm..
second motor is coming out soon.. btw, neither has failed.. both were running strong..
hey, but what do i know?
beers
#1007
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
You see swoope ? Like I said, We're wasting our breaths on a complete retard.
Obviously he has a reading problem.
As for the "Show me proof that the japanese is for stock engines"
lmao.
gg, yeah now you can go die with your full of ****.
if you dont understand Japanese, thats yours problem. I know what Im reading and for the record, yes they're selling it at ANY MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR STOCK RUNNING RX-8 YOU STUPID FUXKING IDIOT.
God ...
oh one more thing, my manual never said a word about "no no" synthetic, so you failed.
and to make 5w20 possible, there HAS to be Synthetic stock in there, again, you dont know **** about oil, failed again.
You simply ignored all the research people has done to Rotary engine for the past 40+ years. and Mazda "borrowed" a lot of ideas from the community. but I guess you dont understand those either.
Like I said, Talk about "Mazda recommended" only when you perform all work on your car @ a Mazda dealer 4 life, otherwise. Please stfu.
Why am I wasting time talking to a retard ... **** ....
Obviously he has a reading problem.
As for the "Show me proof that the japanese is for stock engines"
lmao.
gg, yeah now you can go die with your full of ****.
if you dont understand Japanese, thats yours problem. I know what Im reading and for the record, yes they're selling it at ANY MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR STOCK RUNNING RX-8 YOU STUPID FUXKING IDIOT.
God ...
oh one more thing, my manual never said a word about "no no" synthetic, so you failed.
and to make 5w20 possible, there HAS to be Synthetic stock in there, again, you dont know **** about oil, failed again.
You simply ignored all the research people has done to Rotary engine for the past 40+ years. and Mazda "borrowed" a lot of ideas from the community. but I guess you dont understand those either.
Like I said, Talk about "Mazda recommended" only when you perform all work on your car @ a Mazda dealer 4 life, otherwise. Please stfu.
Why am I wasting time talking to a retard ... **** ....
Last edited by nycgps; 10-01-2009 at 08:12 AM.
#1011
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I'm still waiting for my results.
Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.
#1013
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
I'm still waiting for my results.
Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.
Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.
Anyway, People have been saying that Mobil1 will degrade to something like 20w or lower after 1000 miles. not sure. I never test mobil1.
I think to get a more "accurate" test, send a "fresh" sample of Brand A out first, get the results back, drain & fill the car once, run the engine for maybe 10 minutes until it warms up, drain and fill again, warm up, drain and fill again. Run it for 1000 miles. drain it, do the same from Brand "B".
its gonna be expensive () but this is probably the only way to get a "better/more accurate" results.
Last edited by nycgps; 10-04-2009 at 12:34 AM.
#1014
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
I have put alot of thought into what would be needed for a true oil test will need to really solve alot of these questions, and would love to see it happen...but I don't think anyone has the ~$100k+ it would probably cost.
#1016
I'm still waiting for my results.
Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.
Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.
German Castrol isn't a 40w, it's a very high 30w oil. Since there is a range by which an oil falls into a particular viscosity rating you can have oils which are close to 20w or closer to 40w but still considered a 30w.
Anyway, People have been saying that Mobil1 will degrade to something like 20w or lower after 1000 miles. not sure. I never test mobil1.
I think to get a more "accurate" test, send a "fresh" sample of Brand A out first, get the results back, drain & fill the car once, run the engine for maybe 10 minutes until it warms up, drain and fill again, warm up, drain and fill again. Run it for 1000 miles. drain it, do the same from Brand "B".
its gonna be expensive () but this is probably the only way to get a "better/more accurate" results.
In terms of testing oil the only good results you're going to get is running it to at least 3,000 miles. After 3,000 miles is when you start to see big differences between oils in terms of any viscosity change and wear on the additive package.
The testing process will take some time. Just do your normal change intervals and simply get a sample when you change your oil.
#1018
Whether the oil is warm or not I don't think matters either. The main thing is to not sample the first stuff coming out of the pan as it will likely carry anything that was settled at the bottom with it skewing the results.
Let it drain for a few seconds and then grab a sample.
#1019
Registered
iTrader: (2)
I'm still waiting for my results.
Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.
Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.
One of the things I like about RP is thier claim that their additives form a film on metals that provides protection above and beyond typical hydrodynamic lubrication. My hope is that this will help reduce seal wear on our unique engines.
I don't know if RP's claims are true, but this is an interesting article that seems to validate RP:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
I'm not saying the above is a definitive test of the oil's effectiveness within an engine (clearly it is not) but, again, it seems to validate that RP's additives do work.
#1021
Basic english will get you a long way my friend.
Last edited by jmc23200; 10-05-2009 at 01:26 PM.