Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
#1676
It's more than just mixing with fuel, how does the oil itself burn? ![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The engines that used other oils looked better, both build-up and general housing\seals wear wise.
Unfortunately i have just this humble statistical data and RG's statements to work with, i'll leave scientific proof to the scientists.
Since there are other oils that are known to work without issues i'll limit myself to using them!
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The engines that used other oils looked better, both build-up and general housing\seals wear wise.
Unfortunately i have just this humble statistical data and RG's statements to work with, i'll leave scientific proof to the scientists.
Since there are other oils that are known to work without issues i'll limit myself to using them!
Did they also run under same stop and go?
I might want to check them out.
#1677
Royal purple, Valvoline, redline and total quartz (pretty sure it is dexelia). Some also used castrol's semi synth stuff.
Just run any good oil you can find that's proven to work and premix, premix premix. The latter is the most important thing
Just run any good oil you can find that's proven to work and premix, premix premix. The latter is the most important thing
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#1678
I run Mobil 1 0w40 which I believe to be close to the most advanced mo on the market, and I've premixed 1/2 oz per gal with Mobil 2t (discontinued now) since 2k miles. I've sold lots of different industrial oils once, and I think that premixing with 3 times what is injected would change the deposit situation that couldn't be predicted without a teardown and test of several premixes.
In fact there is a test out there that tests air cooled engines for ultralight airplanes where they run several premixes, and open up to check the deposits. Pennzoil for air cooled engines looked like it won that test, so I've got some of that for when my Mobil 2t runs out.
IMO that Mobil is about the biggest MO seller in the world and Valvoline is from another major refiner (Ashland), so what could be different in these oils to make Valvoline give less deposits?
Moly and boron are two big antiwear additives and they might be the culprits, but most MO's have evolved to lube the upper valve train which we don't have not the bearings.
Air compressors are a situation where MO's can really clog up the valves with deposits so non detergent oils are the right thing there, and IMO that the rotary also has overkill additives when normal off the shelf oils are used.
#1679
0w20 redline has been in for 1k miles. Power feels A LITTLE Better but MPG is worse. 10w60 is going in this Saturday. Not to say RL is the way to go but to keep the SCI consistant. It will clean and burn cleaner than most other oils out there.
Last edited by Iluvrevs; 08-11-2011 at 10:57 PM.
#1681
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0w20 redline has been in for 1k miles. Power feels A LITTLE Better but MPG is worse. 10w60 is going in this Saturday. Not to say RL is the way to go but to keep the SCI consistant. It will clean and burn cleaner than most other oils out there. If you want to contend you are well within your right to be WRONG.
#1682
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well my motor is out and will be in the hands of pineapple racing soon to be torn down an documented. Then we shall see if premixing, running synthetic, and running the SOHN helps.
#1683
Super Moderator
9K, any chance of PICs??...or are you too far away from PR???
I think you said he (PR) will do some pics..cant remember..![Wink](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Ash
I think you said he (PR) will do some pics..cant remember..
![Wink](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Ash
#1684
This RL is coming out early as this was the first run on it and it being an ester oil willl do a bit of cleaning so this just gets cleaner oil in. Once things are cleaned it could go longer. The car is nearly new, but there will still be some cleaning if of nothing else leftover funk from the factury. Ive been changing oil about every 1500 miles so far. Im alsio just playing with the viscocity thing for entertainment.
I guess with regard to MPG my expectation with the 10w60 is some reduction, but not sure how much. In all but one other application Ive had visc had no impact on MPG.
I guess with regard to MPG my expectation with the 10w60 is some reduction, but not sure how much. In all but one other application Ive had visc had no impact on MPG.
#1687
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
![TX](https://www.rx8club.com/images/icons/tx.jpg)
Yes, I am far away Ash8, PR is in Oregon. He is not rebuilding my Mazda reman, he is rebuilding a motor out of a 2008 RX-8 with 5,000 original miles on it that was running perfectly fine before the rebuild. He should have my old Mazda reman this week and he will take pictures and document everything and offer a short report. He has only taken two weeks to rebuild the motor. he did a number of things to it including porting and stage II oil mods but I went with factory apex seals.
My Mazda reman has a blown coolant seal and was leaking coolant into the #2 housing. This was very hard to diagnose but eventually was confirmed with a oil analysis report then further confirmed when I pulled the plug from the old motor and turned it on it's side and a tiny bit of coolant poured out
![Lol](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/lol.gif)
Rob @ Pineapple says that the coolant seal failure is common when they are installed improperly during the rebuild process or the coolant seal is just faulty from the get go, he has seen brand new seals fail. He also said the factory coolant seals cannot handle sustained temps above 205F for long.
I see temps above that regularly.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 08-12-2011 at 04:45 PM.
#1688
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
hmm, maybe, rob has tons of experience in rotary. I guess u will be using their hd seals for the rebuild?
I am not a big fan of viton seal(i think thats what pr and atlkins sells) but im sure they work well. My rb flash keeps the engine running below 205f most of the time so im good.
I wonder if factory use hylomar for rebuilds. I doubt that (maybe thats the reason why it fails so easily? I dunno. Maybe rob can chim in and teach us more)
I am not a big fan of viton seal(i think thats what pr and atlkins sells) but im sure they work well. My rb flash keeps the engine running below 205f most of the time so im good.
I wonder if factory use hylomar for rebuilds. I doubt that (maybe thats the reason why it fails so easily? I dunno. Maybe rob can chim in and teach us more)
#1689
![MI](https://www.rx8club.com/images/icons/mi.jpg)
I bought my RX-8 new in 2004 and have 44000 miles on it. I use only about 1/2 quart of oil in 2500 miles. I wonder if this is less than normal? Car runs great. I just bought a 2011 Nissan Maxima for winter driving and still prefer the RX-8 for ride and handlilng. What a great car!![Aroused](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/aroused.gif)
George-Presque Isle, MI
![Aroused](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/aroused.gif)
George-Presque Isle, MI
#1690
Registered
I bought my RX-8 new in 2004 and have 44000 miles on it. I use only about 1/2 quart of oil in 2500 miles. I wonder if this is less than normal? Car runs great. I just bought a 2011 Nissan Maxima for winter driving and still prefer the RX-8 for ride and handlilng. What a great car!![Aroused](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/aroused.gif)
George-Presque Isle, MI
![Aroused](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/aroused.gif)
George-Presque Isle, MI
#1691
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
This is actually quite off-topic, but has the oil consumption always been this low? Did you take it back for the all the TSBs (especially the PCM reflashes)? There was an issue with the early cars not injecting enough oil, and the reflash was intended to help correct this.
the injectors placement were wrong in the first place. they fixed it in S2 but it's already too late.
#1692
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it has always been this low and I did take it in for the battery=starter recall and once because of check engine lite. I think they did updates then but they made no difference. Engine light was the gas cap. Overall I am very pleased with low oil consumption, it still runs perfectly at 44000. I get 20mpg no matter how I drive it..
George
George
#1693
Registered
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it has always been this low and I did take it in for the battery=starter recall and once because of check engine lite. I think they did updates then but they made no difference. Engine light was the gas cap. Overall I am very pleased with low oil consumption, it still runs perfectly at 44000. I get 20mpg no matter how I drive it..
George
George
Given various accounts of individual oil consumption, I'm guessing the base calibration of the OMP varies somewhat in production.
#1694
Cooler engine oil and radiator water
Has anyone tried the full synthetic "Idemitsu" rotary oil from Japan. If so did it make the engine run cooler. What really kills most rotary engines is the huge amount of heat they generate which the seals can not deal with.
In this connection has anyone used a highter preasure radiator cap, lower temperatre water thermostat or none, and / or just water and a coolant addative which suposed to lower the water temperature around 30%.
Help...... my radiator water temperature is around 210 % down here in Florida. Oh, I have installed fans behind oil cooler radiators which suposed to turn on at 195. I wish I could find an adjustable temperature switch for turning on the radiator fans because they do not always turn on at 195% ( hope this comment is not being entered twice )
In this connection has anyone used a highter preasure radiator cap, lower temperatre water thermostat or none, and / or just water and a coolant addative which suposed to lower the water temperature around 30%.
Help...... my radiator water temperature is around 210 % down here in Florida. Oh, I have installed fans behind oil cooler radiators which suposed to turn on at 195. I wish I could find an adjustable temperature switch for turning on the radiator fans because they do not always turn on at 195% ( hope this comment is not being entered twice )
#1695
The Heavy Metal Scientist
iTrader: (7)
I doubt just switching to Idemitsu is going to fix your problem in the sunshine state. I have a new BHR radiator, the mazmart water pump and t stat, samco silicone hoses, and a sohn adaptor. I run mobile 1 0w40 and my average temps on a hot florida day is about 200 on both coolant and oil. I also run only 30% coolant and purple ice additive. When I get on the throttle my coolant temps spike up to 210 really quick and then comes down, I'm waiting for my accessport so mazdamaniac can lower the temps the fan comes on. You're fans on the oil coolers might be good for idle, but probably are restictive at cruising speeds. At least thats what some of the big wigs on here have said, others have tried the same thing.
What weight are you running now? I've experiment with a few different weights and different manufactures and I find the 0w40 seems to keep more stable temps. My oil never hits over 205 at WOT, but then again I haven't tracked my car yet to see what it would spike in some really harsh conditions.
What weight are you running now? I've experiment with a few different weights and different manufactures and I find the 0w40 seems to keep more stable temps. My oil never hits over 205 at WOT, but then again I haven't tracked my car yet to see what it would spike in some really harsh conditions.
#1696
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
Also, heavier weight is A MUST. using 5w20 means you either don't know ****, or you hate your Rotary on the first day.
Mazda recommend 5w20? Mazda recommend you to do every single work at Mazda dealer, no one listened to that, I wonder why ?
In this connection has anyone used a highter preasure radiator cap, lower temperatre water thermostat or none, and / or just water and a coolant addative which suposed to lower the water temperature around 30%.
No Thermostat? Do you even know what does it really do?
Coolant additive is another almost completely useless thing to have EXCEPT you are running 100% pure Distilled.
Lower the water tempeature around 30% ? It's time for you to wake up.
Help...... my radiator water temperature is around 210 % down here in Florida. Oh, I have installed fans behind oil cooler radiators which suposed to turn on at 195. I wish I could find an adjustable temperature switch for turning on the radiator fans because they do not always turn on at 195% ( hope this comment is not being entered twice )
#1699
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I know it sucks reading all this stuff but if you don't you will miss a ton of good info because MOST of the people in the know have posted about it already and will not repeat it time and time again. So to get to the good stuff you have to read between all the BS. And even then you will still have questions.
#1700
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Are Mazda's warnings against synthetic oil meant for long-term use? Or any use at all?
Mobile One was mistakenly put into my car. I'm having it changed back to conventional oil tomorrow, but I've already driven 200 miles with the synthetic in there before I noticed that the receipt said "Mobile One."
I'm not looking to start a flame war about whether synthetics are bad or not, I'm just wondering *assuming Mazda's warnings are valid*, will 200 miles of Mobile One hurt anything?
Mobile One was mistakenly put into my car. I'm having it changed back to conventional oil tomorrow, but I've already driven 200 miles with the synthetic in there before I noticed that the receipt said "Mobile One."
I'm not looking to start a flame war about whether synthetics are bad or not, I'm just wondering *assuming Mazda's warnings are valid*, will 200 miles of Mobile One hurt anything?