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Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion

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Old 10-21-2011, 02:46 PM
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Yup, I agree. I cannot say that an oil with a viscosity of 8.0 @212F is doing any better or worse than say an oil with a viscosity of 12.0 @212F. But it seems dumb to choose an oil with a lower viscosity just because it is featured in all the cool movies.

My only issue with some grades and types of RP and others that are not API certified is why not? It's obvious it's not a money issue so why are they not API certified?

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 10-21-2011 at 02:54 PM.
Old 10-21-2011, 05:47 PM
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Scott you should also mention that you use a sohn adapter. It doesn't make a lot of difference oil test wise but seriously changes the options for the oils one may use
Old 10-24-2011, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I know it sucks reading all this stuff but if you don't you will miss a ton of good info because MOST of the people in the know have posted about it already and will not repeat it time and time again. So to get to the good stuff you have to read between all the BS. And even then you will still have questions.
Conversely, if there was anything definitive to say, it would have been said by page 3.
Old 10-25-2011, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yup, I agree. I cannot say that an oil with a viscosity of 8.0 @212F is doing any better or worse than say an oil with a viscosity of 12.0 @212F. But it seems dumb to choose an oil with a lower viscosity just because it is featured in all the cool movies.

My only issue with some grades and types of RP and others that are not API certified is why not? It's obvious it's not a money issue so why are they not API certified?
simply because to meet the API rating, you have to meet their requirements.

having TOO MUCH of something and they will disqualify your product.

RP clearly knows what the requirements are, they choose not to follow it, so why bother paying API for their "test" when they know they will fail.

but does that mean RP products are bad? nope, they're actually pretty good.

but again, I prefer SL oil more than SM even the newest SN, even they updated to SN to try to fight the deposit problem found with SM oil. not good enough. if I'm going to get deposit anyway, I rather have better lubrication found in SL oil.

Last edited by nycgps; 10-25-2011 at 01:34 AM.
Old 12-15-2011, 11:11 AM
  #1755  
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Royal Purple Fans

For those that are fans of the RP PQIA did an in depth analysis recently that can be seen here, http://www.pqiamerica.com/. They have numerous other oils in their data base now too for those interested.
Old 12-15-2011, 09:28 PM
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well according to that report Royal Purple has a very high ( off the chart ) sulfur content. that means it would probably cause more ash deposits within the combustion chamber. Whether that is an actual problem IDK
Whats up with the added aluminum?
Old 12-15-2011, 10:48 PM
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What has sulphur got to do with ash?

Ash in oil usually refers to the metallic crystals left when the additive package burns - calcium, zinc, molybdenum, etc..

Sulphur is not metallic, and leaves no ash.....
Old 12-15-2011, 11:25 PM
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It is actually an ash issue hence the drive to reduce its content in fuels, especially diesel where its ash will clog the particulate filters. Its also corrosive to soft metals such as copper, brass, etc. The magnesium in the RP is crazy high too. Mag produces a lot of ash as well. How much this is a problem for the rotary I dont know, but in theory it might be bad just as ZDDP would be. Then again there are processes that I think will produce these additives such that they will not create ash. Not sure on that though. Id have to defer on this and expect RP has more to their add pack than we see here given the acceptance of the oil in the rotary world.

Last edited by Iluvrevs; 12-15-2011 at 11:27 PM.
Old 01-05-2012, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yup, I agree. I cannot say that an oil with a viscosity of 8.0 @212F is doing any better or worse than say an oil with a viscosity of 12.0 @212F. But it seems dumb to choose an oil with a lower viscosity just because it is featured in all the cool movies.

My only issue with some grades and types of RP and others that are not API certified is why not? It's obvious it's not a money issue so why are they not API certified?
kinda late reply but ...

r u saying shitz said in moviez itz n0t truE?

I swEar that m0vie saidz H0nda is da ShiTz y0!
Old 01-13-2012, 09:30 PM
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Don't listen to this guy royal purple on the rx8,tranny is suicide I changed my oil on my tranny 70000miles on it when I got it back. My second gear started grinding when downshifting my tranny is done
Originally Posted by Mike Z
I've been using Royal Purple 5w30 in the engine for quite awhile, 75w90 in the trans & diff.

It works great, the engine is smooth, burns a little less oil than dino. My trans shifts like silk and when idling with the car in netural the trans is quiet, compared to the stock gear oil, my diff hops a little less on kick *** starts so, I sleep well at night knowing I've given my 8 the best of care. :D

The motor oil is API, SL GF-3 rated, just what Mazda requires in a motor oil and the gear oil is GF-4 & GF-5 rated with a limited slip diff additive built into the oil.

Royal Purple is also recommended by Racing Beat and their engineers as being a good synthetic for the RX-8 and have dynoed the oil in a RX-8, only to be surprised to see that it actually gives more HP!!

So, take it from there...........Mike Z
Old 01-27-2012, 11:18 AM
  #1761  
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I think I'm going to ask all my rotary friends that have dailies and track cars and what they use and why and what makes them keep using that oil brand and I will make my decision then I been reading for 3 hrs in this meeting I'm in and I'm confuse I've always used royal purple in my rotary cars. Bridgeport engine ,street port , and stock engine I been happy with it but I've never kept car for years , all I know is 2 of the cars I sold are still running smooth and strong both have been rebuilt I will find out if they switch oils from what I used to use.
Old 01-27-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Chino_rx3
I think I'm going to ask all my rotary friends that have dailies and track cars and what they use and why and what makes them keep using that oil brand and I will make my decision then I been reading for 3 hrs in this meeting I'm in and I'm confuse I've always used royal purple in my rotary cars. Bridgeport engine ,street port , and stock engine I been happy with it but I've never kept car for years , all I know is 2 of the cars I sold are still running smooth and strong both have been rebuilt I will find out if they switch oils from what I used to use.
simplified
Old 01-27-2012, 10:08 PM
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^ ok ..
Old 03-07-2012, 07:20 PM
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Well, not UOA results, but third engine torn down after running 5w30 or 0w30 full synthetics (silkolene) under full race abuse and big shock loadings.

And 3rd set of bearings and stationary gears that look almost brand new. Again.

Last edited by PhillipM; 03-07-2012 at 07:24 PM.
Old 03-07-2012, 09:39 PM
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Well there you go. I will continue using 0W.
Old 03-08-2012, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
Well, not UOA results, but third engine torn down after running 5w30 or 0w30 full synthetics (silkolene) under full race abuse and big shock loadings.

And 3rd set of bearings and stationary gears that look almost brand new. Again.
These are both probably Euro ACEA A3 spec oils with a HTHS of >3.5CST and 100C CST of 11> thought right?
Old 03-08-2012, 05:24 PM
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10/11wt @ 100c, A3/B3 or B4 specs.
Old 03-08-2012, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
10/11wt @ 100c, A3/B3 or B4 specs.
That seems on par with the builders opinions then, or at least close. ACEA A3 requires a HTHS visc of 3.5CST which puts it at the visc of most US mineral 40wts and some 50wts. Good seeing your results showing some consistancy to conversations here. I for one appreciate your keeping us in the loop, thanks.
Old 03-09-2012, 06:39 PM
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Actually, I think the first engine was possibly on A5/B5, I'll have to double check the exact specs tommorow.
Old 03-10-2012, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
Actually, I think the first engine was possibly on A5/B5, I'll have to double check the exact specs tommorow.
That would be interesting. Especially if it was ILSAC GF-.
Old 03-11-2012, 07:31 AM
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Double checked and the early one was actually on A3/B4.
Old 03-11-2012, 09:13 AM
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started using redline 5w30 oil. its the first time in 7 years that i have felt comfortable running a 30 wgt oil. hths of 3.8 It seems viscosity is more complicated than what is just written on the label.
I can tell it did "free up" the engine just a tad. The oil temp is just a little cooler also. I was running mobil 1 0w/40.
Its expensive but i dont drive my car as much as i used too--
Old 03-12-2012, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
started using redline 5w30 oil. its the first time in 7 years that i have felt comfortable running a 30 wgt oil. hths of 3.8 It seems viscosity is more complicated than what is just written on the label.
I can tell it did "free up" the engine just a tad. The oil temp is just a little cooler also. I was running mobil 1 0w/40.
Its expensive but i dont drive my car as much as i used too--
Redline is a pretty robust oil visc alone. Their 5w20 has a HTHS of 3.3 which is higher than most ILSAC 30wts. This higher HTHS being one of the benefits of group V base stocks along with cleaner burn as well as somewhat of a cleaning effect in and of itself.

Thanks for the follow up Phil
Old 03-12-2012, 12:54 AM
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Good data Phillip, and Iluvrevs!

HTHS rules - a good synth 5w20 can beat old-school 20w50's where it counts.

This ain't your granpappys Chevy.
Old 03-12-2012, 08:33 AM
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I run mix of redline 5w-30 and their 30wt racing oil..it is probably overkill but I don't want the oil to be weak link..been using redline oil for a while now and my cars love it..it also has lower coefficient of friction to boot :-)


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