Dirty Tips...
11-14-2006, 09:34 PM
#1
Leisy
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Dirty Tips...
Someone told me that the black grease the builds up on your exhaust tips is a sign of poor engine performance.. Is this true? Cause I thought everyone had dirty tips.
11-14-2006, 10:09 PM
#3
RX-8 Enthusiast
Originally Posted by dillsrotary
actually i believe dirty exhaust tips is a sign that the engine is running well (and burning the oil its suppose to burn)
that doesnt make sense to me. a perfectly efficient engine would be putting out only like CO2 and water vapor as productss, so there would be no black stuff on your tips... i think that stuff is caused by incomplete combustion of gas/oil/whatever - not necessarily a bad thing, but just the natural way rotary engines run (rich)
i think all cars get this, just maybe ours more than others because of the rich way the rotary runs?
course, i could be totally wrong and have no idea what im talking about
11-14-2006, 10:17 PM
#5
dirty tips is normal. your car is injecting oil into the engine...
that said, soon as I started to premix, the exhaust tips no longer turned jet black, instead they get a light bronze coating instead. much easier on the eyes.
that said, soon as I started to premix, the exhaust tips no longer turned jet black, instead they get a light bronze coating instead. much easier on the eyes.
11-15-2006, 05:46 PM
#7
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I believe it is unburnt fuel/oil mixture. Since I switched to Royal Purple synthetic oil I have gotten significantly less soot in the tail pipes, so I assume that this oil burns cleaner than regular oil.
11-15-2006, 06:13 PM
#8
How does this look for exhaust ports?
Running Amsoil 5w30 stuff that goes 24,000 miles or 12 months. (never would get there because of how we burn it off if we are pushing it). At 1,000 miles a month I go through about half a quart to a quart. Burns clean though from the looks of it. 21,000 miles synth for the last year.
Running Amsoil 5w30 stuff that goes 24,000 miles or 12 months. (never would get there because of how we burn it off if we are pushing it). At 1,000 miles a month I go through about half a quart to a quart. Burns clean though from the looks of it. 21,000 miles synth for the last year.
11-16-2006, 12:38 AM
#10
more complicated than that...
first since the car came out... the flashes have changed the running rich problem.. so the smoot level went down for me.....
also plan b i switched to syn oil... smoot level lowered even more... plan c i started to premix, smoot level even lower...
i have to clean the tips about every 2k miles, and it is not that bad...
beers
first since the car came out... the flashes have changed the running rich problem.. so the smoot level went down for me.....
also plan b i switched to syn oil... smoot level lowered even more... plan c i started to premix, smoot level even lower...
i have to clean the tips about every 2k miles, and it is not that bad...
beers
11-16-2006, 10:48 AM
#15
Originally Posted by 4 years to Supercharge
Swoope did you have them install the dual throttle bodies with the new engine? 
I was under the impression that my exhaust ports were too clean (running lean?). Shouldn't they at least have some black residue?
I was under the impression that my exhaust ports were too clean (running lean?). Shouldn't they at least have some black residue?
wtf,
what is that pic?
as to you ports. they look almost to good to be true.. almost like a high rpm plug check was done.. as in the ign was cut at high rpm to read plugs...
btw, my spare motor looks about the same as the one they pulled out of my car..
beers
11-16-2006, 11:21 AM
#16
Originally Posted by swoope
wtf,
what is that pic?
as to you ports. they look almost to good to be true.. almost like a high rpm plug check was done.. as in the ign was cut at high rpm to read plugs...
btw, my spare motor looks about the same as the one they pulled out of my car..
beers
what is that pic?
as to you ports. they look almost to good to be true.. almost like a high rpm plug check was done.. as in the ign was cut at high rpm to read plugs...
btw, my spare motor looks about the same as the one they pulled out of my car..
beers
The pic is from the X-Men 2 RX-8.
Found that this week.
If they still had the two throttle bodies what would that do for us?
That is what the SDIAS replaced correct?
Interesting I was expecting to see some port blockage from the synth.
11-16-2006, 01:10 PM
#17
Leisy
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I was under the impression that we could not run syn oil, but I dont have enough time to read all the threads, cause all this time ive been running 5w-20 reg oil.
11-16-2006, 01:23 PM
#18
Registered
My tips will be extremely black after about a week, especially the bottom. They are the first to go. Running synthetic will get rid of this? I am still reluctant to do this because Mazda did not recommend it.
11-16-2006, 04:08 PM
#19
Blah Blah Blah
There are some synths that are not good for the rotary engine. Mobil One is one that comes to mind. If a person sticks with the ones that have been used and have a track record of not causing issues they can feel safe using synthetics for oil.
I run 5w30 Amsoil API Service SL-CF.
The rest of the world uses 5w30. Mazda recommends 5w20 because of emissions. Please someone correct me if I am incorrect on the emissions.
I change it every 6 months and when I have the last 2 times the oil looks almost brand new. Just slightly darker. I felt bad taking it out. But a person can only get half of it out when they change it so that is why I change every 6 months.
It still burns it the normal pace 1 quart every 1-1.5 thousand miles. It burns cleaner that is why it helps keep the tips clean. This is why I do not feel bad about switching to 5w30 if it was because of emissions.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...otor+oil+grade
Last edited by BoosTED; 11-26-2006 at 04:56 AM.
11-16-2006, 04:33 PM
#20
Once again the engine drops oil on to the Apex seals for lubrication. this is by design so there's some extra oil in there, but the PCM is dumping a ton of fuel down the exhaust to cool the CAT.
That's where the real problem lies. So dirty tips.
And yes the new recall fash as helped this on my car too!
No comment on running synthetic. But they do report cleaner tips.
That's where the real problem lies. So dirty tips.
And yes the new recall fash as helped this on my car too!
No comment on running synthetic. But they do report cleaner tips.
11-26-2006, 12:16 AM
#21
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I don't care WHAT kind of oil you are running, DO NOT run ANY oil in a rotary-powered car for 25,000 miles. That's just plain stupid, and asking for trouble..
Change every 3000-5000 miles, unless you enjoy engine rebuilds. $100 more to do it 5x in that 25000 mile period is a LOT cheaper than a 1000-3000 dollar rebuild. I imagine it is for you, too.
Change every 3000-5000 miles, unless you enjoy engine rebuilds. $100 more to do it 5x in that 25000 mile period is a LOT cheaper than a 1000-3000 dollar rebuild. I imagine it is for you, too.
11-26-2006, 02:02 AM
#22
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Can't be from wear. My tips started to soot up 2 days after I took the car home! Its only on the bottom (6 o'clock position) of the tip though. I'm thinking about having the tips powder coated black just to avoid it.
11-26-2006, 05:34 AM
#23
Originally Posted by AdRoCK3217
I don't care WHAT kind of oil you are running, DO NOT run ANY oil in a rotary-powered car for 25,000 miles. That's just plain stupid, and asking for trouble..
Change every 3000-5000 miles, unless you enjoy engine rebuilds. $100 more to do it 5x in that 25000 mile period is a LOT cheaper than a 1000-3000 dollar rebuild. I imagine it is for you, too.
Change every 3000-5000 miles, unless you enjoy engine rebuilds. $100 more to do it 5x in that 25000 mile period is a LOT cheaper than a 1000-3000 dollar rebuild. I imagine it is for you, too.
The back of the Amsoil bottle states up to 25,000 miles or one year whichever comes first. At 12,500 miles replace the Amsoil oil filter (made by Wix) and top off.
Keep in mind that every one to two thousand miles I add a quart because the metering oil pump sprays it into the engine, over the year that adds up to 6-12 quarts, more than an oil change worth. I would feel safe under the circumstances going 12,000 miles on an oil change with this oil, which is a year for me.
11-26-2006, 09:41 AM
#24
Registered User
I actually think it is worse with the latest flash on my car. I can do 250 miles and the tips will be covered, used to it would take a grand or more miles to do it. Then again it might have something to do with the aftermarket exhaust letting it through more too.
11-26-2006, 10:26 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by 4 years to Supercharge
Does the Owner's Manual recommend 7,500 miles between oil changes?
The back of the Amsoil bottle states up to 25,000 miles or one year whichever comes first. At 12,500 miles replace the Amsoil oil filter (made by Wix) and top off.
Keep in mind that every one to two thousand miles I add a quart because the metering oil pump sprays it into the engine, over the year that adds up to 6-12 quarts, more than an oil change worth. I would feel safe under the circumstances going 12,000 miles on an oil change with this oil, which is a year for me.
The back of the Amsoil bottle states up to 25,000 miles or one year whichever comes first. At 12,500 miles replace the Amsoil oil filter (made by Wix) and top off.
Keep in mind that every one to two thousand miles I add a quart because the metering oil pump sprays it into the engine, over the year that adds up to 6-12 quarts, more than an oil change worth. I would feel safe under the circumstances going 12,000 miles on an oil change with this oil, which is a year for me.
Sure, the owners manual says 7500 miles between oil changes. But so do a lot of other car manufacturers. In fact, I'm almost positive ALL other cars on the road are at atleast 7500 miles between oil changes. I think, with this kind of market, Mazda might be inclined to say 7500, when infact they know it should be closer to 5000?
Now, the adding 6-12 quarts thing. The oil all mixes together..so, that way, you are never having a "true change" of the oil. In simple terms it would, I expect, look something like this.
Oil life: 90% at change (assuming you drain the coolers as much as possible)
1000 miles: 75% + 1 quart makes for 85%
2000 miles: 70% + 1 quart makes for 80%
3000 miles: 65% + 1 quart makes for 75%
And so on. I just can't see any good in not just doing a full change every 3-5000 miles, if your adding so many quarts anyways.
I have thought about doing the add-1-quart-instead-of-changing thing..but it just doesn't feel safe.