DIY: engine replacement
#1
Thread Starter
US Navy Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 3
From: New Orleans, LA
DIY: engine replacement
can anyone do a step by step engine replacement?... any tips I get my engine tomorrow and I have never done an engine swap and I don't want to do anything wrong and mess something up.. Do you have to remove the tranny? any help would be great..
#4
I believe there's a thread that has pictures of an rengine R&R. Don't remember whose thread it was, but it was one where Charles Hill flew in to do the work in the guy's garage. Maybe someone remembers more than I do?
I assume you've got the shop manual. If not, let us know and a bunch of us will give links to our favorite on-line sources.
Ken
I assume you've got the shop manual. If not, let us know and a bunch of us will give links to our favorite on-line sources.
Ken
#5
http://www.myrotarycar.com/portal/fo...3le/index.html
Look in the "Engine" section, "Mechanical" sub-section.
#6
I believe that was Mysql's car that they did when he had his fron rotor crack and leaking...however i may be mistaking...
like otther said if u dont knowabout it i wold not suggest it! good possibilithy someting will go wrong
like otther said if u dont knowabout it i wold not suggest it! good possibilithy someting will go wrong
#8
Hesselrode - make sure you label everything that you take off or disconnect. Lay in a supply of plastic bags and small boxes to hold parts. Make sketches. Take photos...if you don't have digital cameral buy an inexpensive one.
Ken
#9
Hesselrode - make sure you label everything that you take off or disconnect. Lay in a supply of plastic bags and small boxes to hold parts. Make sketches. Take photos...if you don't have digital cameral buy an inexpensive one.
#10
Thread Starter
US Navy Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 3
From: New Orleans, LA
what is easiest top or bottom.. if i can convert an automatic to a manual and it work then surely i can replace one engine with another... I have alot of mechanical experience, and i have a hobby shop with every tool.. the engine i bought is complete with everything for the most part so i don't have to take everything off of one and put on the other only altenator and ac compressor.. also there are experts at the hobby shop that are able to help a little and give advice but i just needed to know the things that wouldn't go for normal engines.. i think it has all the sensors and things so should just drop in and be good...
#11
This is just book learning on my part, but according to the shop manual the engine, transmission and cross member are removed as a unit from underneath.
Here's a link to the shop manual where I read that:
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...8_manuals.html
I've found that edition to be more complete than the one EZRIDE pointed you to. Read both.
You need Volume 03, about 8 MB, of that manual.
Hope this helps...let us know how it goes.
Ken
Here's a link to the shop manual where I read that:
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...8_manuals.html
I've found that edition to be more complete than the one EZRIDE pointed you to. Read both.
You need Volume 03, about 8 MB, of that manual.
Hope this helps...let us know how it goes.
Ken
#13
Out the top: remove the tranny from the motor.
Out the bottom: it all comes out in one piece.
If you don't know what I'm talking about, don't do it.
EDIT -
I'm building a motor tomorrow and will probably drop it in over the weekend. It'll all be on video stream, so you can watch it there.
Out the bottom: it all comes out in one piece.
If you don't know what I'm talking about, don't do it.
EDIT -
I'm building a motor tomorrow and will probably drop it in over the weekend. It'll all be on video stream, so you can watch it there.
#14
if you're mechanically inclined, then i don't see a problem then. pretty straight foward job...took me about 8 hours to do.
i would definately take it out from the top, i've done it both ways and found it easier to take it out from the top.
i would definately take it out from the top, i've done it both ways and found it easier to take it out from the top.
#17
#18
it would've been faster. but i accidently had the APV gear link kinked. so the motor wasn't able to turn the auxilary ports. pulled the intake manifold back far enough to get my fingers in to loosen up the linkage and get it to turn...what a pain that turned out to be.
#23
much rather do it from the top...10x easier.
#25
the motor sits behind the front axles, so it's pretty deep within the engine bay. but at the right angle, it might just slip right out. but i wouldn't chance it.
i'm gonna write up how exactly i did it:
disconnected battery and removed
drained all fluid from engine (oil and coolant)
disconnected wire harness going to ECU and fuse box
removed air box, strut bar, air injection pump
disconnected coolant hoses, oil cooler lines, vacuum lines, fuels lines, and grounds
removed all under braces, exhaust, and plastic panels
remove torsion bar between diff and tranny (support rear diff with a wooden block)
disconnect drive shaft from diff and chasis
remove trans with drive shaft still attach (so no fluid spills out, but a plug works as well)
remove motor mounts and pull that sucker out!
ok, so that was really vague, but it's really not that bad!!
i'm gonna write up how exactly i did it:
disconnected battery and removed
drained all fluid from engine (oil and coolant)
disconnected wire harness going to ECU and fuse box
removed air box, strut bar, air injection pump
disconnected coolant hoses, oil cooler lines, vacuum lines, fuels lines, and grounds
removed all under braces, exhaust, and plastic panels
remove torsion bar between diff and tranny (support rear diff with a wooden block)
disconnect drive shaft from diff and chasis
remove trans with drive shaft still attach (so no fluid spills out, but a plug works as well)
remove motor mounts and pull that sucker out!
ok, so that was really vague, but it's really not that bad!!