Called out and disproved ("disproven" is not a word)? What are you talking about?
You haven't demonstrated anything other than both failure points can be avoided. Of course they can be avoided. Don't be ridiculous.
The point is that it is very easy to mash the OMP and it is equally easy to remove the motor with the pulleys still in place. All you did was go out of your way to show how special you are in doing the opposite. Congratulations.
Now, for the rest of the people out there, mangling the OMP and pulling the motor with the pulleys still in place is the norm.

I've pulled the motor with the tranny still attached as well. Why bother? It takes 7 - 15 minutes to remove it first.

You are just running around and around in circles.

This from the man who made a point to come into my thread and insist that the vacuum line for the brake booster should be removed at the other end, then I said that it really didnt matter, and you still insisted. You've gotta be shitting me. Bottom line, you came to start shit, and now it's backfired a bit, so you're backing off of your original stance.

RE: "disproven". IT is directly related to "proven", which is a registered word in any dictionary you care to check. Try again.

"Proven" is a word. "Disproven" is not only not a word, but it is a logical fallacy.
You can't disprove something, so it can't be "disproven". You can "refute" an assertion and provide a logical argument against that assertion, but there is no syllogism to disprove something, which is probably the essence of why it isn't a real word in the first place. "Disprove" is also a word, but it is a transitive verb, hence the missing "n" at the end (and exists for the sole purpose of discussing the fallacy that it is).
Shall I quote you dictionary entries or will you be steadfast in researching this yourself?

I never, ever, EVER come into a thread just to "start shit". I come in to stop it.
You have made a whole bunch of assertions that you attempt to prove by omission and I am simply pointing out that just because you are able to do things a particular doesn't mean that it is the best or most practical way to do it.
I really don't see why you are getting your panties in a wad over this.

Pulling the motor out with the tranny attached is a wonderful bit of prestidigitation. But why bother? It just makes the job infinitely more difficult.
If you take the tranny off first, you won't bang the pulley. That is that. Really nothing else to comment on there.
As far as the OMP and oil pressure sender goes, besides your pic not showing the full story (and I KNOW you know what I am talking about), the fact is that it is tight. There is a lot of stuff to worry about as you pull the motor up and out.
The ABS module is in the way. The A/C lines are fragile and the compressor is just dangling inches from harm's way (the '04 models particularly). etc. People smash both of those sensors. It's just a fact. I've sent out a LOT of replacement parts for that over the years. It happens.
Bravo that you managed just enough mechanical empathy to not do it yourself. You do this for a "living", don't you? I'd expect no less.
For average folks (which, I presume are the target of your DIY), the OMP sensor is a very expensive and virtually has a bull's eye on it.

I also wanted to correct some other misinformation that's been posted in this thread.

This is the correct way to remove the front 19mm bolt from the engine block/crank pulley. It is safe for the user, the engine, and the car. Using a breaker bar and a pipe propped against the ground is a completely improper procedure.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/bu...n/DSCF1506.jpg

Yeah, because everyone keeps a tool like that around.

Why? Ever try it? Do you have any idea what the procedure looks like?
Please elaborate on why it is "wrong" specifically.

He said "Improper"

Improper: "unsuitable or inappropriate, as for the purpose or occasion"

I also think its the wrong way of doing it. Yes it can get the job done BUT if you mess up on the way you hold the bar or support yourself, you can get hurt.

So from preventing anyone to get hurt he shows the "PROPER" way to do it.

Proper: "adapted or appropriate to the purpose or circumstances"

if you were going to do the proper thing then you wouldn't be doing this yourself :rofl:

There is a wide range of options on the continuum of proper, sensible and reasonable.

This Diy is the shiznit man good stuff...too bad i paid someone to take my motor out before i searched for a diy lol

What is the exhaust manifold bolt torque spec?

I've searched and searched, even have a shop manual, and can not find the torque spec for the bolts. I know they are self locking, but I don't want to over crush the seal or break anything.

for me, hand snug plus 1/8 turn, which works for most any fastener on the car.

IF you're talking about the fasteners between the cat and manifold, well those studs almost always strip out or break upon disassembly no matter how well you lubricate them. I normally wind up knocking them out with a hammer and then using new non-mazda hardware.

Thanks for the reply. I was asking about the exhaust manifold to engine nuts.

thread revival question, will the greddy turbo clear the engine bay using this method or is it better to remove it?

I would think it would clear, but I've never done an r/r on a turbo equipped 8.

trick i have discovered for me in regard to getting the trans mounted to the engine:
Dont TQ the pressure plate before you install the trans. Those dang spine line up tools are not that accuate and can be off--just a little. By leaving the pressure plate a little loose this allows the clutch to move a little when you are wiggling the trans.
You can TQ the pressure plate bolts from the started hole. Just rotate the engine to get to the bolts--not hard at all. Dont forget to use the right pattern in tightening them.
Made my life easier--always HATED trying to get the trans back in--the 09 is a little heavier and bigger in size which makes it a tad harder.
OD

Thank you so very much for posting this guide. I am almost done with getting my motor out. I have a few questions, mainly because i am nervous about a few things:

AC Pump, any pictures of the bolts i need to take out. I saw the diagram in the shop manual...however I don't want a face full of freeon.

Transmission, aside from moving the motor down to access the bolts...any further advise for getting that bad boy off. My pry-bars are ready.

Engine braces that rest on the motor mounts (i think thats the name), I put a 17mm socket on the bolts...but i can't get a solid grip. Might I be picking the wrong bolts? I stopped last night thanks to heat and the effects from fumes...PB Blaster, Coolant, and Fuel take there toll quickly, lol.

4 long bolts on the side of it that form a large rectangle. Hard to miss. Just follow the lines down to the base flange that meets the compressor, find the bolt(s) that hold the lines/flanges on, and don't mess with those. The ones you're looking for are two on top and two on bottom, all four facing the driver frame rail in the same direction.

No prybar needed to get them apart most of the time. Just remove all bolts, raise engine/trans using hoist until the trans touches the trans tunnel, use a jack to go under the trans and hold it after the engine comes off. Now grab the engine at the sides and wiggle the hell out of it side to side and then again up and down while pulling it toward your body as much as you can muster. It will usually slide pretty much right off.

I do use a prybar when mating the engine back onto the trans later...line up the clutch splines until they engage and then pry between the subframe/PS rack and the engine lower front corner/front cover gently to seat the engine back onto the trans/dowels so the bolts can be started.

They're torqued on there tight, I always use an impact. You'll likely need a breaker pipe if you're using a ratchet by hand.

yup very good thread!

And you don't have to get freeon on your face. Just swing it to the side once you get the bolts off of it.


Attachment 242537

Thanks RR and THP.

Yea i got it off easy. The one thing i still didn't get was the oil line...i need a open wrench bigger than a 19mm thats for damn sure.

Or could i get away with unbolting it right from the block?

If all goes well i'll be back on the road again by tomorrow morning.

I unbolted it off the block. I have seen some cut them....it was not hard to unbolt it from the block.

Yea i'll be unbolting it, no cutting here.

Check it! Time Lapse video of the procedure. Sorry it's so quick. This was my first try and I set the interval to be too slow.

http://youtu.be/9xnE9IkNNS4

Here's the tear down. This was the second try. I think it's better.

http://youtu.be/yKwWS2tiBVs

Wish it really went this fast.

Hal

This write up was a great help. I took about an hour to convert it into a Microsoft word format that I could print and place in clear sleeves within a binder. Having that binder right there while doing with work was much less risky than having a laptop. So if anyone else likes to work like this, I've got the file to email you.

I tried to attach it but the site is saying the file is too large. Moderators let me know if this is something you can work out. I can email it to you.

Thanks! ALSO new engine in and car running great!

I am in the middle of doing this as we speak. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the upper trans bolts off. im using multiple extensions, of different sizes and u-joint. But i still cant find the magin angle to get them off, i have the one bolt behind the slave line off, but cant get what i assume to be two more bolts towards the passenger side off or even get into a position that would make it possible... any suggestions?

Yep those guys are a pain. I think I ended up dropping the trans slightly and just reaching my arm up in there blindly.