DIY: RX-8 Engine Removal How-to-with Pics
#76
SARX Legend
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I am in the middle of doing this as we speak. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the upper trans bolts off. im using multiple extensions, of different sizes and u-joint. But i still cant find the magin angle to get them off, i have the one bolt behind the slave line off, but cant get what i assume to be two more bolts towards the passenger side off or even get into a position that would make it possible... any suggestions?
#78
I am in the middle of doing this as we speak. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the upper trans bolts off. im using multiple extensions, of different sizes and u-joint. But i still cant find the magin angle to get them off, i have the one bolt behind the slave line off, but cant get what i assume to be two more bolts towards the passenger side off or even get into a position that would make it possible... any suggestions?
#79
i've just about run out of all my options with the swivel joints and extensions. So I will try removing the UIM and see how that works out. Keep you guys posted. And RR you are a god for this write up, saved me a ton of money and hassle... well more money then hassle but you get the idea haha.
#83
RX8 & RX7 owner
....
Lower the engine/transmission about 4 or 5 inches to gain access to the top of the bellhousing. Unplug the front oxygen sensor from the engine harness, and remove the harness clip from the passenger side of the transmission. You can also remove the upper 2 or 3 bellhousing bolts if you want, however I find it easier to get these from underneath using a long extension and a u-joint. The bellhousing bolt on the top drivers side of the transmission is behind the slave cylinder line, simply gently bend this line out of the way to get the bolt out.
.....The engine will move up with it, because it is still connected by the 2 lower bellhousing bolts
Lower the engine/transmission about 4 or 5 inches to gain access to the top of the bellhousing. Unplug the front oxygen sensor from the engine harness, and remove the harness clip from the passenger side of the transmission. You can also remove the upper 2 or 3 bellhousing bolts if you want, however I find it easier to get these from underneath using a long extension and a u-joint. The bellhousing bolt on the top drivers side of the transmission is behind the slave cylinder line, simply gently bend this line out of the way to get the bolt out.
.....The engine will move up with it, because it is still connected by the 2 lower bellhousing bolts
Same basic procedure...with some obvious differences. But it's not bad at all......
There is also one extra trans-to-engine bellhousing bolt near the oil filter that the manual does not have.
BE SURE you have the trans jacked up and supported in an upward position before trying to separate it from the engine.
There is also one extra trans-to-engine bellhousing bolt near the oil filter that the manual does not have.
BE SURE you have the trans jacked up and supported in an upward position before trying to separate it from the engine.
This DIY was VERY helpful however, it has many Steps that were skipped and most of the pictures that were posted were of the easy and obvious steps, what I think people needed pictures of are of what wasnt taken of. I.E. Where to run the Socket-UJoint-Extensions (like 4 ft really) when taking off the Bellhousing bolts, if you dont know you are left in the dark trying to figure it out. I took pictures of the whole process (maybe about 150 pictures) of a more step by step DIY.
Some pictures like taking off all the coolant hoses/oils line/ electircal plus are almost the obvious and could have been excluded or labeled all in one picture since they kind of dont matter in which order they come off anyways.
Pictures of how to twist and turn the passenger engine bracket to get it out would be helpful LOL, it was like a maze.
But yeah, it was very helpful. Thanks. Look for a AT D.I.Y. soon.
The removal is really easy, almost as easy as changing a clutch, you just need a better guide. I would call this a chopped up D.I.Y. .... especially if someone is not mechanically inclined and doesnt have an idea of how a removal takes place.
I found it easier to remove the Engine Mount BOLT/NUT through the side wheel well housings with a socket, ratchet and cheater bar.
Tools that I used were
Cheater Bar for Ratchet (I dont trust Impact Guns, have broken bolts in the passed, a cheater bar you can slowly turn a bolt and applying more pressure little by little)
WD40 for getting coolant hoses and Engine Mount Bolts off (big Pain in the ***)
2- Jacks
4- Jack Stands
1- Engine Hoist
2- 20" 1/2-inch drive extensions
1- 1/2-inch drive Ratchet
1- 1/2-inch to 3/8"inch reducer
1- 3/8-inch U joint/ elbow or w/e
8 through 18mm Ratcheting Wrench set
8 through 19mm Deep & Short Socket w/ extentions Set for 3/8-inch ratchet
2- 20" or so PryBars
Ill include in the DIY what size socket, deep or short or which wrench would work best for what ever you are trying to remove. Also list what color and size bolt you are trying to remove.
Last edited by ZumnRx8; 01-30-2012 at 04:03 PM.
#84
RX8 & RX7 owner
For people with an AT, the easiest and almost effortless way to get the TC unbolted and keep it from spinning is to remove the inspection plate at the bottom and the starter from the side. Once you have both openings you want to use a Wrench (closed end) to hold one of the NUTs on the flex plate through the inspection plate opening on the bottom of the tranny and turn the flex plate up until the wrench is against the opening toward the driver side, a TQ BOLT should be almost perfectly place where the Starter opening is at for removal. Use a Short Socket 14mm and Ratchet and remove a TC bolt. The Wrench on the NUT in the Inspection plate opening will hold the flexplate from spinning. Rotate the flexplate and removal all of the remaining 3 bolts the same way, they line up perfectly for removal this way.
or You can give me some time to do the DIY
Also, RR or MODs can u please clean up the mess or trash talk of MM and RR, it was pretty useless and didnt use any info for removal (and there is pages of it)
You might not need to remove the underdive pulley but its better to remove the Underdrive pulley for engine removal, just do it like RR said, more clearance and less that will/can get in the way.
or You can give me some time to do the DIY
Also, RR or MODs can u please clean up the mess or trash talk of MM and RR, it was pretty useless and didnt use any info for removal (and there is pages of it)
You might not need to remove the underdive pulley but its better to remove the Underdrive pulley for engine removal, just do it like RR said, more clearance and less that will/can get in the way.
Last edited by ZumnRx8; 01-30-2012 at 04:05 PM.
#85
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Welp, after going back and forth with Mazda for 4 months, they have decided me taking my car in for service 2 weeks outside the warranty, and finding that my engine is toast, is my fault since I didn't take it in sooner to check for a issue that was undetectable.
Yeah, pretty pissed off right now, but anyway, thanks for this writeup, as it seems I will be pulling and replacing an engine in the near future.
Yeah, pretty pissed off right now, but anyway, thanks for this writeup, as it seems I will be pulling and replacing an engine in the near future.
#86
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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Anyone needing OEM mazda parts (individual parts) should check with Ray at Malloy Mazda. He's a very popular supplier with the FD RX7 crowd and I obtain many of my parts from him. He'll beat mazdatrix' price easily. He's the best option for oem mazda parts if you are NOT in mazdacomp.
Google the contact info, don't want to post here in case it's against some rule to help members.
Google the contact info, don't want to post here in case it's against some rule to help members.
#87
Registered User
i do agree with the method of removing all the auxiliaries
what i dont get is why you do it the hard way?
you stand a chance of damaging qute a few fluids lines, not to mention possible damaging other finer parts
its way easier lossening the 12 bolts under the car and jacking the entire chassis into the air
that way you have the engine gearbox and subframe still on the wheels and you can obviously not move the car
we remove engines and replace within a 24hr period
your way has to many concequences and the chances of a inexperienced mechanic actually breaking more than one part has propably happned many times
the way the workshop manual explains, is so easy that a total bigining worker with no mechanical experience can do it without damaging any part of the car
what i dont get is why you do it the hard way?
you stand a chance of damaging qute a few fluids lines, not to mention possible damaging other finer parts
its way easier lossening the 12 bolts under the car and jacking the entire chassis into the air
that way you have the engine gearbox and subframe still on the wheels and you can obviously not move the car
we remove engines and replace within a 24hr period
your way has to many concequences and the chances of a inexperienced mechanic actually breaking more than one part has propably happned many times
the way the workshop manual explains, is so easy that a total bigining worker with no mechanical experience can do it without damaging any part of the car
#88
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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i do agree with the method of removing all the auxiliaries
what i dont get is why you do it the hard way?
you stand a chance of damaging qute a few fluids lines, not to mention possible damaging other finer parts
its way easier lossening the 12 bolts under the car and jacking the entire chassis into the air
that way you have the engine gearbox and subframe still on the wheels and you can obviously not move the car
we remove engines and replace within a 24hr period
your way has to many concequences and the chances of a inexperienced mechanic actually breaking more than one part has propably happned many times
the way the workshop manual explains, is so easy that a total bigining worker with no mechanical experience can do it without damaging any part of the car
what i dont get is why you do it the hard way?
you stand a chance of damaging qute a few fluids lines, not to mention possible damaging other finer parts
its way easier lossening the 12 bolts under the car and jacking the entire chassis into the air
that way you have the engine gearbox and subframe still on the wheels and you can obviously not move the car
we remove engines and replace within a 24hr period
your way has to many concequences and the chances of a inexperienced mechanic actually breaking more than one part has propably happned many times
the way the workshop manual explains, is so easy that a total bigining worker with no mechanical experience can do it without damaging any part of the car
That procedure also requires significantly more storage space for the engine, trans, and subframe after it is removed from the car. Many DIY'ers will be working in a single bay residential garage and the car takes up nearly the entire bay by itself. Now where are they supposed to put the sub frame etc. when it comes out?
That method also permanently immobilizes the chassis. My method allows you to easily roll the chassis out of the way once engine removal is done, giving you the entire garage to tear down, rebuild, and reassemble the engine.
I have done this R&R procedure at least 10 times now and have never damaged anything. One of those times I did bend the upper a/c metal line a little bit as the flywheel caught it on the way out, but it wasn't punctured or significantly damaged and I've made a mental note to pay special attention to that.
#89
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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Just to Clear things up for everyone The Automatic has 6 (4 TOP and 2 BOTTOM) Transmission Bell Housing Bolts. Otherwise once the TC and everything else is seperated and you are wondering if the flexplate is touching, when really its a sixth bolt, ..... Lets just say you are gonna get put behind a couple of hours lining stuff back up to remove that 6th bolt.
The scope of this job is such that if finding and loosening one extra bolt presents a major challenge for you, you probably should not be attempting it to begin with.
This DIY was VERY helpful however, it has many Steps that were skipped and most of the pictures that were posted were of the easy and obvious steps, what I think people needed pictures of are of what wasnt taken of. I.E. Where to run the Socket-UJoint-Extensions (like 4 ft really) when taking off the Bellhousing bolts, if you dont know you are left in the dark trying to figure it out.
In the future I will try to do a better job of photographing each step, no matter how miniscule, working alone, while underneath a car with only a few inches of clearance, while holding tools and wedging my arm into some small space, holding the camera, focusing on what you're looking to see, and taking a well lit picture for you.
Then of course I will also post that for free, and continue to provide free support for the topic years after first posting it.
Maybe one day I will be able to live up to these expectations.
Some pictures like taking off all the coolant hoses/oils line/ electircal plus are almost the obvious and could have been excluded or labeled all in one picture since they kind of dont matter in which order they come off anyways.
The removal is really easy, almost as easy as changing a clutch, you just need a better guide. I would call this a chopped up D.I.Y. ....
You're one of those people who thinks that society owes them something, aren't you? You're probably the type that goes around and reports handicap accessibility code violations and advocates that your kid get a "participation" award even when his team lost the soccer game.
especially if someone is not mechanically inclined and doesnt have an idea of how a removal takes place.
Hey, I'm a 6 foot tall white dude who can't dunk. I know I am no professional athlete. So guess what I do? I STAY MY A$$ OFF THE BASKETBALL COURT.
Ill include in the DIY what size socket, deep or short or which wrench would work best for what ever you are trying to remove. Also list what color and size bolt you are trying to remove.
#90
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
This write up is awesome and more that sufficient. It made pulling my engine and installing the new on much easier. If you guys are still having issues after reading this DIY then you probably should not be taking on a project like this.
Thanks RR for the write up, it was an awesome thing for you to do.
Thanks RR for the write up, it was an awesome thing for you to do.
#92
Having a problem with my engine revomal..
im closing to the end of the stripping, but i don't have a clue how to remove PCM / ECU
it's not like shown in these pic's
its mounted with gold(ish) braces all around with some weird flat surfaced bolts
there is no regular bolts that can just be opened?
do i need to drill those all off so that i can get the PCm/ECU open to unplug the wire harness?
the label in my ECU/PCM is different then in this DIY..
if needed i can take a photo if it, if somebody needs to see if you don't have a clue what im talking about.
im closing to the end of the stripping, but i don't have a clue how to remove PCM / ECU
it's not like shown in these pic's
its mounted with gold(ish) braces all around with some weird flat surfaced bolts
there is no regular bolts that can just be opened?
do i need to drill those all off so that i can get the PCm/ECU open to unplug the wire harness?
the label in my ECU/PCM is different then in this DIY..
if needed i can take a photo if it, if somebody needs to see if you don't have a clue what im talking about.
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ASH8 (10-24-2019)
#94
i guess i'll just drill out the bolts that hold it down :P dont have the intrest to go through all the connectors in the motor.
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ASH8 (10-24-2019)
#96
Super Moderator
#97
Ok, i just finished my engine swap..
filled it up and were going for a test start..
and surprise it won't start?
it almost starts and oil pressure goes up for a 0,5sec and then it stalls..?
any clue? did i miss something or have something not connected maybe?
or is it possible for me to mix the fuel rail connectors? i swapped the old wire harness to the new engine
i have a -04 high power manual trans and the new engine is a -07 high power
spark plugs are new, coils and wires are few months old.
filled it up and were going for a test start..
and surprise it won't start?
it almost starts and oil pressure goes up for a 0,5sec and then it stalls..?
any clue? did i miss something or have something not connected maybe?
or is it possible for me to mix the fuel rail connectors? i swapped the old wire harness to the new engine
i have a -04 high power manual trans and the new engine is a -07 high power
spark plugs are new, coils and wires are few months old.
#98
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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What, is it some sort of legislation enacted by the drill bit manufacturer lobby in the UK?
#99
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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Ok, i just finished my engine swap..
filled it up and were going for a test start..
and surprise it won't start?
it almost starts and oil pressure goes up for a 0,5sec and then it stalls..?
any clue? did i miss something or have something not connected maybe?
or is it possible for me to mix the fuel rail connectors? i swapped the old wire harness to the new engine
i have a -04 high power manual trans and the new engine is a -07 high power
spark plugs are new, coils and wires are few months old.
filled it up and were going for a test start..
and surprise it won't start?
it almost starts and oil pressure goes up for a 0,5sec and then it stalls..?
any clue? did i miss something or have something not connected maybe?
or is it possible for me to mix the fuel rail connectors? i swapped the old wire harness to the new engine
i have a -04 high power manual trans and the new engine is a -07 high power
spark plugs are new, coils and wires are few months old.
Did the new engine run before removal, and did it run recently? If it has been sitting unused for several months, it may be flooded or otherwise need oil injected into the chambers to restore compression after sitting. Treat it as a flooded engine and use an old set of spark plugs to start it.
#100
the engine was tested before removal from the car..
it have been sitting dry atleast for a month, since the delivery from UK to Finland took a month.
i have a set of ~5000km driven plugs so i'll use them when trying to start so i don't mess up my new plugs.
it have been sitting dry atleast for a month, since the delivery from UK to Finland took a month.
i have a set of ~5000km driven plugs so i'll use them when trying to start so i don't mess up my new plugs.