So I replaced my rear rotors and pads today with r1 slotted rotors and stoptech pads.

First side took me a few hours(trying to get the old rotor off, learning about twisting the caliper piston, etc) but once I figured that out the other side only took 30 minutes or so.

After all was said and done, before I even took the car out of the garage I pulled the handbrake. It felt much easier to pull and could be pulled much further.

On the old brakes I could rip the handbrake and the rear wheels would just lock up(Good) now when I pull it they get no where close to locking the wheels, making it very difficult to do an ebrake turn or feel safe parking on a hill.....


Does anyone have any idea what I could have done wrong..?

 

Nothing wrong.... You simply added slack to the cable by putting in the new pads. Just do the "Parking Brake Lever Adjustmnent" as outlined in the service manual and all should be well.

 

I have the same setup on my rear brakes, same thing happens but after the brakes have warmed up the ebrake pulls just fine. try warming the brakes

 

Good to hear, I was worried. Thanks guys.

 

what happen to common sense these days? does it even exist anymore ?

 

Some people just don't know. What else can we do. They just need to learn it, i guess.

 

+1 on the slack.

 

Any work on the brake calipers (especially the rear), will cause the rear caliper's e-brake mechanism to increase slack. The piston in the caliper is pumped by pulling on the mechanism with the e-brake cable. When the piston is positioned back inside the cylinder of the caliper, it will take a few pumps (pulls of the e-brake) for the piston to be released out of the cylinder enough so to compress the pads.

If that doesn't work, tight then slack for your e-brake cable behind the handle. Long story short - yank e-brake a few times and if that doesn't work, adjust e-brake cable.

 

Yeah once I find a deep socket 10mm rachet head I'll let you know. Turns out they are hard to find.

I'm not fully understanding how work on the rear calipers would change the slack in the line. I get needing to pull the ebrake a few times to get the piston to twist out, but what I don't get is how slack could be developed in the ebrake mechanism due to taking the caliper off. But maybe I just have an incorrect understanding of the mechanism.... I'll let you know if tightening works, once i find that rachet head.

 

...

 

Still looking for a deep enough 10mm socket head....

 

^Sears/Harbor Freight, AUTOZONE??? Can an extension help? I dont know what you are talking about.

 

Meh they were like $15 at autozone, I drove out to home depot and grabbed one.

BUT

It did not fix my problem, yes it tightened the ebrake, it feels very taught and nice now, brakes don't drag, etc? None the less my initial problem has not been fixed, when I pull the ebrake up to the highest it will go now that it has been tightened it slows the car, but does not lock up the rear wheels like it used to.


Nycgps, thanks for the helpful comment -_-

 

Give the new pad some time to wear in. Like a p*nis in a v*gina....

 

Yeah I tend to assume that's what's goin' on.

day I had them installed I drove a lot to break them in a bit and make sure the rotors were wearing properly, so far looks good... But of course now I'm worried I've glazed the pads