So, long story short, a coolant hose popped off of the TB (back, left) and the engine **** the bed. Mazda said it is what ammounts to a blown head gasket in a piston engine, but I forgot the name of the rotary part. Mazda said it needed a new engine and the waranty company said **** off because it was caused by a hose, which isn't covered.

I know I don't have the 8 grand to pay Mazda, so what other options do I have? I have rebuilt a push rod engine in the past, but never worked on a rotary. Would this be as simple as pulling the motor, tearing it down and replacing the gasket?

I've never worked on a rotary, so I have no idea what is involved in this. What else is likely damaged? What is the cost of a DIY repair vs paying a shop to do it? Is it even a DIY that should be tackled?

 

We discussed it earlier this week (diy on a rotary) and i think that you would be safer asking Charles R. Hill or Mazmart to either rebuild it or to sell you a rebuilt one.
Since you don't have the money to buy a new engine i don't think you have the money to do it twice either in case something goes wrong

 

Contact Rotary Resurrection (sic) he rebuilds. It's more cost effective to get a rebuild and do the swap over the weekend.

 

Rebuilt engines from highly respected builders can be had for ~$3000. Try RotaryRessurection (in Tenessee) or Mazmart (in Georgia), you can message them both here on the forums. There are many others as well.

Doing it yourself is basically not a great idea, a lot of it is the expertise of knowing what needs to be replaced, let alone the actual skills to do it properly. At a bare minimum a rebuild is close to $1k in parts, so really it just makes sense to have rebuild it for you (or do an exhange for a rebuilt one). Generally rotary rebuilds are cheaper than piston engines.

 

wow,

year, mileage, auto or manual.

that might be useful info..

beers

 

Thats some BS man -- warranty people always trying to pull a fast on on someone!

 

Did this not register on the temperature guage ??

 

how many miles on it? the warranty companies are full of bs if its under the 100k mile mark mazda must replace it if they give you the run around call MNA and deal with them if its a private warranty company tell em youll call the local news and describe the situation ... but regardless mazda should replace the motor if its under 100k

 

The car has 67k on it and is an 04 AT (I thought I had the engine/year info in my sig...oops). When I spoke to my service guy (who has always been helpful and up front) he said the claim was denied because the failure of a non-warrantied part (hose clamped to the TB) caused the total failure.

I'm going to climb up the warranty company's *** tomorrow and see what I can get done, but I'm not all that hopeful. My service guy said that even Mazda would deny the claim because of that very reason. I'll give MNA a call if you think it would help though.

The engine temp did register the failure. I noticed it climb and I hit the heater full blast. The temp began to drop as I moved to the right lane of the highway to exit, then it fell off completely. I couldn't exit or pull over right away due to the location, so I let off the throttle, threw it in neutral to remove the drivetrain load and coasted until it was safe to exit. I then killed the car and rolled to a stop. It only ran a short time (a minute at most) after the coolant was drained.

I've contacted the 3 names mentioned and am preparing to move on with the build if I don't get anything done soon. Thanks for the help, keep it coming if there is more!

 

I think thats just pure bullshit.

so that means they can use whatever the fuxk reason they can find to deny every single warranty. They can say the air quality is bad that day causing the MAF to go off and pwned the engine.

what the ... thats why I dont trust extended warranty or whatever bs they call it.