After doin a ton of research on pretty much every oil out there for the 8, ive found an oil that seems to be the solution. 10w 30 Idemitsu Racing oil is made specifically for the mazda rotary engines. Does this oil seem to be to heavy or do u think the 8 will really run better and safer with it?

heres the link http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_211.htm

 

Do a search here and you'll find out that it didn't

 

whats wrong with it

 

If you did all the research why do you ned us to tell you if its any good?

 

from my research it seems to be a hell of a good oil and I posted it to see if im not the only one to think so and then some *** clown responds to it with no answer, and i expect one.

 

so how about someone gives me a good reason or answer to the question or dont post at all, simple as that.

 

I believe the conclusion was; Idemitsu is a racing oil and thus lacks some of the ingredients suggested to run a decent mileage interval on the street. So you still change it within 3K miles or so, and pay quite a bit more than even top tier synthetic. Then, if Idemitsu works, why wouldn't Royal Purple work? It is cheaper and they also specifically claim to be compatible with the rotary. Thus we have the synthetic debate.

I'm actually curious if the first part is correct, I thought I had read that somewhere on here when originally searching the subject. I'll delete that bit if someone corrects me?

Regardless, Idemitsu has been selling their oil for a long time, at least a few months through US channels. It is also still against Mazda's recommendations as much as any other synthetic.

 

Nothing is wrong with the oil.

My point was that we all know about the oil but it didn't stop the oil discussion on the forum.

Do you really think that this is a good way to introduce yourself to the forum?

Personally I'd use the Sohn adaptor with run two stroke oil to allow use of synthetic in the engine

 

alrite i got ya, thanks for the answers

 

But damn sure somtin wrong with the OP.


You come in here sayin you did all this research and you didn't do squat. Then you have the temerity to get all up in DB's face when he calls you out? I think a good handle for you is TheDookyofPA.

 

Carbon, where have you been man?

I've been missing our pointless threads in the lounge

 

Mazda does not recommend aftermarket parts. I dont see anyone, including the ones who said *Mazda does not recommend Synthetic* kind of bullshit, actually listen. Oh let me bring another, Mazda recommends you to perform ALL work @ a Mazda dealer, do you listen to that?

if you dont, please shut up. and dont EVER bring that *Mazda recommend* whatever BS to the table.

 

Work got in the way the first part of the year and I have just been catching up. Gotta get the n00bs back into line first. Then I will get back to the surreal lounge threads. Those were SOO pointless that "pointless" really is kinda complementary.

 

I'm not against synthetic, and I don't take Mazda's word for truth, planning on using RP next change. Just simply stating that in their eyes Idemitsu isn't excluded from that even though it is "rotary" oil.

This debate will never end though, as someone will always end up hearing both sides. Then you've got to explain not only why they could use syn, but why Mazda may have said what they did, etc.

 

do it. use RP. just as nycgps's sig says, his engine is happy with synthetic, and so is mine. but this debate will go on as long as the regular vs premium gas debate. if you want the top for your renny, i would say the sohn adaptor would be the best.

 

We should ALL STOP using Synthetic and Mineral

Canola FTW !

 

but omg, what viscosity do we use!!

 

There are couple of choices.

I prefer Corn, since they're usually thinner,

but now they have Extra Virgin Olive Oil, its a bit heavier than stock weight, but still I think its ok to use them. Its healthy too ya know, everytime you run your car, it smells like fries.

 

The spec sheet says it exceeds API Service SM, so it would be OK on that count.

So it really comes down to just whether you think 10w is thin enough for cold starts, and whether you're getting worthwhile benefit for the extra cost.

I go along with nycgps's recommendation of extra virgin olive oil. Particularly if you leave off the "olive oil" part.

Ken

 

...but I did save a ton of money on my insurance by switching to GEICO and I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

^ lovely

 

Any oil is better than no oil I guess!

 

i mean, are we all going to keep our cars for 200K? If you are, i guess the oil discussion is important... just change your oil every 3K with a solid high grade oil... make sure it is topped off.. and premix if you have more comfort...vooaallaaaa... you have a nice and happy rotary

 

My daily driver is at 172,000 with no signs of quitting. I'm not replacing it either. Of course it is a Civic. My rotary is at 105,000 and is just fine.

 

just to rub it in...if both synthetic and petro based oil of the highest API grade available were used...say SM grade, then use what ever you want, or use them all. you can't go wrong. everyone has a trade secret.

some synthetics has nice additives, some don't. if we are not engineers, we'll never know whats in it. so use synthetic if ur rich, why not? we only live once.
if ur broke, then use the plain "X" brand of oil. you'll even have enough money to do 2 oil change. that'll really make ur rotary happy

there, end of discussion.