Front Oil Seal Change?
#1
Front Oil Seal Change?
Hi All,
Anyone got any advice on how to get the centre bolt out that holds in the pully carrier on the end of the eshaft? I've got a leaking shaft oil seal I need to change. Got the pulleys off but am struggling to get the flywheel held while I crack the nut.
Also anyone know if this is a normal or left handed thread?
I've checked the online manual but there is no specific info on this.
Any advice well received!
Cheers
Anyone got any advice on how to get the centre bolt out that holds in the pully carrier on the end of the eshaft? I've got a leaking shaft oil seal I need to change. Got the pulleys off but am struggling to get the flywheel held while I crack the nut.
Also anyone know if this is a normal or left handed thread?
I've checked the online manual but there is no specific info on this.
Any advice well received!
Cheers
#2
There are very serious dangers in doing this procedure wrong
Unless you are sure of what you are doing you should get it done at a shop that knows what they are doing
The bolt is on there with a lot of torque..you need a big impact to get it off....normal thread...with loctite and sealant on the flange
Unless you are sure of what you are doing you should get it done at a shop that knows what they are doing
The bolt is on there with a lot of torque..you need a big impact to get it off....normal thread...with loctite and sealant on the flange
#3
As Dan mentioned - this can lead to engine damage if done wrong . There is a thrust bearing behind the nut that can fall off its shoulder .
In saying that , I did it and all was OK .
You need a long pipe on your socket (about 4-5ft will do it ) . Then you need to lock the flywheel somehow . There is a special tool for this but you need the g/box off to use it . I was lucky in that I have the ACT flywheel and was able to jam a crowbar in beteen the holes in the flywheel to lock it all up .
Then there is a proceedure to follow so you don't dislodge the bearing ...... put off yet ?
In saying that , I did it and all was OK .
You need a long pipe on your socket (about 4-5ft will do it ) . Then you need to lock the flywheel somehow . There is a special tool for this but you need the g/box off to use it . I was lucky in that I have the ACT flywheel and was able to jam a crowbar in beteen the holes in the flywheel to lock it all up .
Then there is a proceedure to follow so you don't dislodge the bearing ...... put off yet ?
Last edited by Brettus; 10-17-2010 at 08:02 PM.
#4
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm not put off by all that, just aware of the pitfalls now!
I have a decent length power bar so that isn't an issue. Now I know the thread details etc that helps a lot. I'll have to come up with something to clamp the flywheel now I guess. I'll take some measurements and see what the technicians in the machine shop at work can knock together so I don't have to take the gearbox off.
The thrust bearing you mentioned - does this sit on the eshaft behind the oil seal or is it part of the pulley wheel? The exploded diagram in the manual doesn't give any detail of this.
I have a decent length power bar so that isn't an issue. Now I know the thread details etc that helps a lot. I'll have to come up with something to clamp the flywheel now I guess. I'll take some measurements and see what the technicians in the machine shop at work can knock together so I don't have to take the gearbox off.
The thrust bearing you mentioned - does this sit on the eshaft behind the oil seal or is it part of the pulley wheel? The exploded diagram in the manual doesn't give any detail of this.
#5
This might help . Most important thing being to check endplay once you reinstall the bolt . No endplay and you are in trouble . You will have to remove the front cover to fix .
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...e_Modification
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...e_Modification
Last edited by Brettus; 10-18-2010 at 03:19 PM.
#6
Thats really useful thanks. I wouldn't have known about the end play.
Does the 8 have this thermal valve installed in the shaft? Can't see it on the exploded diagram. If so, this could potentially be the source of my running problem!
Does the 8 have this thermal valve installed in the shaft? Can't see it on the exploded diagram. If so, this could potentially be the source of my running problem!
#7
Not likely..
If you are pulling the front pulley bolt out...replace the OEM thermostat unit with a pellet..they are $8...Mazdatrix and Atkins has them I think
I posted a good video from Mazdatrix on another thread....I'll see if I can find it again
EDIT: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
If you are pulling the front pulley bolt out...replace the OEM thermostat unit with a pellet..they are $8...Mazdatrix and Atkins has them I think
I posted a good video from Mazdatrix on another thread....I'll see if I can find it again
EDIT: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
Last edited by dannobre; 10-18-2010 at 07:51 PM.
#8
Update:
Well that was a bit of a mission but I've finally managed it!
I managed (after 4 revisions!) to create a tool which locks the flywheel through the opening for the starter motor. Happy to provide fabrication drawings for it if anyone needs them - just message me. You'll need to be pretty good with a welder mind you.
Really good advice from people - thanks very much.
Cheers,
Andy
Well that was a bit of a mission but I've finally managed it!
I managed (after 4 revisions!) to create a tool which locks the flywheel through the opening for the starter motor. Happy to provide fabrication drawings for it if anyone needs them - just message me. You'll need to be pretty good with a welder mind you.
Really good advice from people - thanks very much.
Cheers,
Andy
#9
Drawings for tool...
Hello Andy:
My name is Hector I'm new in this side, but i need to replace the front oil seal in my RX8 and I was reading your posting about the tool you made to use through the opening for the starter motor. I will love to have the drawings for fabrication.
You can send it to me at this email:sagkrys11@gmail.com
I will appreciate it. That will make my job more easier. Thank you very much i will wait for your respond.
Hector
My name is Hector I'm new in this side, but i need to replace the front oil seal in my RX8 and I was reading your posting about the tool you made to use through the opening for the starter motor. I will love to have the drawings for fabrication.
You can send it to me at this email:sagkrys11@gmail.com
I will appreciate it. That will make my job more easier. Thank you very much i will wait for your respond.
Hector
Update:
Well that was a bit of a mission but I've finally managed it!
I managed (after 4 revisions!) to create a tool which locks the flywheel through the opening for the starter motor. Happy to provide fabrication drawings for it if anyone needs them - just message me. You'll need to be pretty good with a welder mind you.
Really good advice from people - thanks very much.
Cheers,
Andy
Well that was a bit of a mission but I've finally managed it!
I managed (after 4 revisions!) to create a tool which locks the flywheel through the opening for the starter motor. Happy to provide fabrication drawings for it if anyone needs them - just message me. You'll need to be pretty good with a welder mind you.
Really good advice from people - thanks very much.
Cheers,
Andy
#10
The Front pulley hub bolt does not require lots of Torque, it was torque at around 90 ft lbs only.
What's holding it is the LOCTITE that's on the threads.
if you want to remove it "EASY", all you need to do is heat the bolt up with a propane torch for maybe 2 minutes. then you can remove it with whatever you can find that goes up to 90-100 ft lbs, let it be an impact or long cheater bar.
but beware that the Front stack component, the thrust bearing/torrington bearing might move out of it's position, and if you just stick the thrust washer over it and turn the engine on. Say good bye to everything, including your engine.
if you(or the shop) knows what they are doing, sure just do it. I would try to clean it well and apply the vaseline on it (the REAL deal, dont' get some knock off store brand, they SUCK *** and does NOT stick like Vaseline) But dont' come back and cry if you or the shop totally messes it up.
What's holding it is the LOCTITE that's on the threads.
if you want to remove it "EASY", all you need to do is heat the bolt up with a propane torch for maybe 2 minutes. then you can remove it with whatever you can find that goes up to 90-100 ft lbs, let it be an impact or long cheater bar.
but beware that the Front stack component, the thrust bearing/torrington bearing might move out of it's position, and if you just stick the thrust washer over it and turn the engine on. Say good bye to everything, including your engine.
if you(or the shop) knows what they are doing, sure just do it. I would try to clean it well and apply the vaseline on it (the REAL deal, dont' get some knock off store brand, they SUCK *** and does NOT stick like Vaseline) But dont' come back and cry if you or the shop totally messes it up.
#11
You know I read threads like this one about the dangers of changing the front seal, and took my car to the dealer and let them do it. And the guy laughed and said none of that was necessary to change the front main seal. They changed it just like on any other car and all was well. Strange.
#12
At this time I have no need to do this, but based on reading the Mazdatrix FAQ posted above all that would be required to prevent the torrington bearing from moving out of place and wedging between the spacer causing no end play would be wedging the clutch pedal down before beginning.
Is this correct?
Is this correct?
#13
You know I read threads like this one about the dangers of changing the front seal, and took my car to the dealer and let them do it. And the guy laughed and said none of that was necessary to change the front main seal. They changed it just like on any other car and all was well. Strange.
At this time I have no need to do this, but based on reading the Mazdatrix FAQ posted above all that would be required to prevent the torrington bearing from moving out of place and wedging between the spacer causing no end play would be wedging the clutch pedal down before beginning.
Is this correct?
Is this correct?
Last edited by nycgps; 10-18-2012 at 08:20 AM.
#15
I don't know man, not trying to say you are wrong and he is right, just what happened. I have a good relationship with this dealer, been going to them on and off for over 10years I know they would have covered me if something went wrong.
#16
I know, but if it cost them an engine...
#17
Hi there AndyL. Can you also send me the specification on the special tool to hold the flywheel thru the starter so I can replace the Main oil seal? my email is mercys1@hotmail.com. Thank you
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