Gas/Oil Premix Thread
#3351
Hi I'm adding to gas tank about 250ml /58liters (that is a full tank) this oil : http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ng-Premix.aspx can You tell me is this oil good? And is adding oil to fuel a good idea and is it helping a engine?
#3354
So when I'm adding 250ml /58liters this oil engine will be fine?
Please tell my what is a + and - adding oil in fuel. Ofcose I have everything in my car in orginal I change oil about ~8000km to dextelia ofcorse
I whant to reach to 200000km on orginal engine everyone is telling me that this engine can do max 100000km..... I alweys drive to 3000rpm until engine have about 90C I never drive more than 6000rpm
In my country people are telling me this:
1) Oil will damege engine
2) It will do nothing
.... no coment for thet
I have now 61000KM on my 2004/2005 mazda
Sory for bad English
Please tell my what is a + and - adding oil in fuel. Ofcose I have everything in my car in orginal I change oil about ~8000km to dextelia ofcorse
I whant to reach to 200000km on orginal engine everyone is telling me that this engine can do max 100000km..... I alweys drive to 3000rpm until engine have about 90C I never drive more than 6000rpm
In my country people are telling me this:
1) Oil will damege engine
2) It will do nothing
.... no coment for thet
I have now 61000KM on my 2004/2005 mazda
Sory for bad English
#3355
If you're running on the updated pcm flashes 250g per fill-up should be enough. Reaching 200.000km on a stock renesis is not a problem if you do the regular maintenance wisely. Keep your ignition system in good running order( replace your spark plugs every 30.000km or so, upgrade or replace the stock coils etc), make sure that your catalytic converter is fine and that the OMP is properly working.
That's all you need to do, going above 6000rpm will prevent the intake valves from sticking so just have fun with your car!
That's all you need to do, going above 6000rpm will prevent the intake valves from sticking so just have fun with your car!
#3356
I have update flash from 2006 year....I never drive to mazda diler I do everything by my self
What is "OMP"?
I don't have catalytic It's empty
I have done at colins and spark plugs about 3000-5000km a have new starter
What do you mean : " 6000rpm will prevent the intake valves from sticking "
What is "OMP"?
I don't have catalytic It's empty
I have done at colins and spark plugs about 3000-5000km a have new starter
What do you mean : " 6000rpm will prevent the intake valves from sticking "
#3357
Registered
I have update flash from 2006 year....I never drive to mazda diler I do everything by my self
What is "OMP"?
I don't have catalytic It's empty
I have done at colins and spark plugs about 3000-5000km a have new starter
What do you mean : " 6000rpm will prevent the intake valves from sticking "
What is "OMP"?
I don't have catalytic It's empty
I have done at colins and spark plugs about 3000-5000km a have new starter
What do you mean : " 6000rpm will prevent the intake valves from sticking "
Now whether that is 100% or not I do not know, but I believe it. I have personally seen someone kill their rx8 in less than 20k miles from brand new. Their wife mostly drove it and she always kept the rpm as low as she could when driving it.
Look around on the forum, its been discussed to death and I'm sure there are people on both sides of the fence.
#3358
Registered
iTrader: (15)
welp, finally ran out of the FP+ a few weeks ago, and after experiencing no noticeable ill effects, and nothing to be concerned about in regards to contamination (per BSL), I ordered a nice big jug of it from the guys at LCD. Looks like they redesigned their plastic a bit as before it would start to cave in on itself from whatever affect the liquid has on the plastic they used to use lol.
#3359
Registered
I would love to go with idemitsu for all the reasons you listed. I just wish it was available locally and without having to order it by the case.
I don't know what idemitsu currently costs but the lucas semi-syn is about $10 a quart at checkers, autozone does not sell it. It used to be 5.99 and spiked up quite a bit in price. I need to check target and walmart they may be cheaper.
I don't know what idemitsu currently costs but the lucas semi-syn is about $10 a quart at checkers, autozone does not sell it. It used to be 5.99 and spiked up quite a bit in price. I need to check target and walmart they may be cheaper.
#3360
I have been using the lucas semi-syn 2 stroke and it works good, I would love to go with idemitsu for all the reasons you listed. I just wish it was available locally and without having to order it by the case.
I don't know what idemitsu currently costs but the lucas semi-syn is about $10 a quart at checkers, autozone does not sell it. It used to be 5.99 and spiked up quite a bit in price. I need to check target and walmart they may be cheaper.
I don't know what idemitsu currently costs but the lucas semi-syn is about $10 a quart at checkers, autozone does not sell it. It used to be 5.99 and spiked up quite a bit in price. I need to check target and walmart they may be cheaper.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2385&ppt=C1941
Shipping is expensive so it is best to call your local O'Reilly's, have them order it, then pick it up when it arrives.
#3361
I put on the BHR ign at 23k miles and left original plugs in.
My reasoning is that if the ign is firing right, it'll burn deposits off.
So at 28k miles I take out a leading plug thinking I'll put in new ones.
The gas had a healthy 8oz per 12 gal premix on Mobil 2T (discontinued), but the plug had no black carbon, just a little of the usual tan.
I have a 6spd auto that revs less than the manual, and I plan to keep running them.
My point here is that after running Mobil 1 0w40, and Mobil 2t ( pib type) my plugs look cleaner than on any car I've had.
My reasoning is that if the ign is firing right, it'll burn deposits off.
So at 28k miles I take out a leading plug thinking I'll put in new ones.
The gas had a healthy 8oz per 12 gal premix on Mobil 2T (discontinued), but the plug had no black carbon, just a little of the usual tan.
I have a 6spd auto that revs less than the manual, and I plan to keep running them.
My point here is that after running Mobil 1 0w40, and Mobil 2t ( pib type) my plugs look cleaner than on any car I've had.
#3362
Gulf Coast Rotaries
iTrader: (1)
premix
A million rotary miles, using premix. NEVER a single rotary engine failure in any of those engines using premix. I have torn down engines with and without premix after heavy racing, and the proof was conclusive, the proper premix works.
There will always be nay sayers who want ever more proof. The fact is the right premix will help your engine last longer and gives a tiny bit better gas mileage to boot.
You can believe it or not, you can wait for somebody other than rotary experts Racing Beat and Pettit Racing who have extensively tested premix and gotten great results.
I know from nearly forty years of rotary experience, that is all I need. You can waffle about it,while I will continue to use it and have long lasting trouble free life with my rotary engines, while I read about blown and premature dead rotary engines.
There will always be nay sayers who want ever more proof. The fact is the right premix will help your engine last longer and gives a tiny bit better gas mileage to boot.
You can believe it or not, you can wait for somebody other than rotary experts Racing Beat and Pettit Racing who have extensively tested premix and gotten great results.
I know from nearly forty years of rotary experience, that is all I need. You can waffle about it,while I will continue to use it and have long lasting trouble free life with my rotary engines, while I read about blown and premature dead rotary engines.
#3363
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
i have been on both sides of this..
if you dont track your car, and your car burns oil / omp is working fine. just never let your tank go below 1/3 of a tank and you will be fine.
if you track your car i would find a mix that works with you.. and never let the pump get below 1/3 a tank.
i think lots of these pump go out early, or very early by running them down to the yellow light or more.
i am guilty of that..
i find for track events that one oz per gal seems perfect, and i have a car that does not use a lot of oil...
make sure if you are going to premix, you mix it before you dump it in the tank..
beers
if you dont track your car, and your car burns oil / omp is working fine. just never let your tank go below 1/3 of a tank and you will be fine.
if you track your car i would find a mix that works with you.. and never let the pump get below 1/3 a tank.
i think lots of these pump go out early, or very early by running them down to the yellow light or more.
i am guilty of that..
i find for track events that one oz per gal seems perfect, and i have a car that does not use a lot of oil...
make sure if you are going to premix, you mix it before you dump it in the tank..
beers
#3364
Registered
I put on the BHR ign at 23k miles and left original plugs in.
My reasoning is that if the ign is firing right, it'll burn deposits off.
So at 28k miles I take out a leading plug thinking I'll put in new ones.
The gas had a healthy 8oz per 12 gal premix on Mobil 2T (discontinued), but the plug had no black carbon, just a little of the usual tan.
I have a 6spd auto that revs less than the manual, and I plan to keep running them.
My point here is that after running Mobil 1 0w40, and Mobil 2t ( pib type) my plugs look cleaner than on any car I've had.
My reasoning is that if the ign is firing right, it'll burn deposits off.
So at 28k miles I take out a leading plug thinking I'll put in new ones.
The gas had a healthy 8oz per 12 gal premix on Mobil 2T (discontinued), but the plug had no black carbon, just a little of the usual tan.
I have a 6spd auto that revs less than the manual, and I plan to keep running them.
My point here is that after running Mobil 1 0w40, and Mobil 2t ( pib type) my plugs look cleaner than on any car I've had.
#3365
Registered
i have been on both sides of this..
if you dont track your car, and your car burns oil / omp is working fine. just never let your tank go below 1/3 of a tank and you will be fine.
if you track your car i would find a mix that works with you.. and never let the pump get below 1/3 a tank.
i think lots of these pump go out early, or very early by running them down to the yellow light or more.
i am guilty of that..
i find for track events that one oz per gal seems perfect, and i have a car that does not use a lot of oil...
make sure if you are going to premix, you mix it before you dump it in the tank..
if you dont track your car, and your car burns oil / omp is working fine. just never let your tank go below 1/3 of a tank and you will be fine.
if you track your car i would find a mix that works with you.. and never let the pump get below 1/3 a tank.
i think lots of these pump go out early, or very early by running them down to the yellow light or more.
i am guilty of that..
i find for track events that one oz per gal seems perfect, and i have a car that does not use a lot of oil...
make sure if you are going to premix, you mix it before you dump it in the tank..
Also, I think premixing the premix before adding it to the tank is a bit of overkill. I've been premixing since the car was new by just adding it to the tank before each fillup - no issues.
#3367
Registered
I have seen the low fuel light so many times with this car. I know all the reasons they say not to run on low fuel, gunk in the tank, premix gunk possible also, and the fuel not cooling/lubing the pump properly when low. It just has never caused me any issues in any car.
#3369
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
#3371
Registered
#3372
Registered
The lucas semi-syn 2 stroke oil has markings on the side, as long as your filling the tank when you first open the bottle its easy. The markings start at 24 ounces so just pour until it hits there and thats 8 ounces in the tank. Having little 8 oz bottles seems like the way to go though.
Last edited by xexok; 02-03-2012 at 01:45 PM.
#3374
Amsoil Saber I like better with its 13.xxCST at 100C as far as protection. From what I’m getting after going over and over the UOA consolidated analysis I did heavier viscosity oil injected is reducing the Chrome wear so reading between those lines a good, stable premix makes sense.
#3375
Registered