Emery_

iTrader: (8)

Man those plugs look like sh*t...

I just cleaned my old plugs up really well with a metal brush and brake parts cleaner.


Before: with a year and half of usage (daily driven) premix, and mobil 1 & rp synthetic oil

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After cleansing

mazdatylerrx8

where can i get some premix????

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

It depends on opinion really.
Idmetsu online seems to be the favorite. Some say different brands.
I use Lucas semi-syn 2 stroke oil, JASO FD or FC certification, low ash.
Mainly cause my local O'Reilly's carries it. I was using Stihl syn. FC from my local ag, store before that.
IMHO, the JASO cert, low ash factors are the most important.
Research and make your own decision.

GGJuarez

Newb here .. Lemme know if I understanding correctly , the "proper" lubrication can be achieved by allowing the Oil Metering Pump to do its job with the recommended 5w-20 as stated in the manual >> OR << by premix (not both) ?

Also im a huge fan of synthetic oils in my piston engines. I may be wrong but aren't synthetic oils formulated to prevent burn up? My Mazda dealer "ORDERED" to STAY AWAY from synthetics and go with the convetional lubricants such as Valvoline Mobil or Motorcraft.

Im planning on having maintenance done on REX (my 8) pretty soon and would like to use Mobil Super 5w-20. I use Mobile in all my vehicles.

If it is appropriate maybe add some AMSOIL Saber Pro in the gas tank for long trips or when going for those thrilling rides for a little extra protection. OZ. per GAL./Ratio while still having the OMP functional would be appreciated.

I want the best for my 8 as do all of us here and would like some advice.
ANY Opinions Welcome !
Thanks in advance :D

sweatr

I you read the above post, you have a few options. Best advice given above.....research and make your own choice.

I have a 2004 auto 8 . I don't know a lot yet, I have been premixing with different brands as well as running syn oil for approx. 3,000 miles now and I have experienced no adverse effects except a softer sounding motor and a slight increase in mileage if I keep my foot out of it, some time I do but rare.

Steve Dallas

Most premixers run both the MOP and 2 stroke oil of some description as a premix. There is some feeling that premixing is less necessary with Series 2 cars, because of the changes to the oil delivery system.

Mazda USA definitely seems to be against synthetic oil. As long as my 8 is still under warranty, I am taking it to the dealer for oil changes in case anything ever goes wrong. They put whatever they want in it. When I top off the oil every few fill-ups, I use Castrol GTX 5w20.

Unbeknownst to the dealer, I also add 6 ounces of high quality 2 stroke JASO FD/ISO GD certified premix (Castrol Power RS TTS 2T synthetic or Lucas 2-Cycle semi-synthetic) to each tank of gas for extra insurance. However, after coming back to this thread and reading much of it again, I am considering altering my strategy to only premix on track days, which means about twice a year at my current rate.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The OMP's primary purpose is to lubricate and cool the side seals for 2004-2008 RX-8s, the apex seal gets this from a 3rd injector for 2009-2011.

Premix is not sufficient for the side seals, though can help with the apex seals for 2004-2008.

Premixing only on certain occasions doesn't do much, it's like only using oil in your engine on certain occasions. Granted, not that severe, but if oil is present on that revolution, then lubrication is achieved, if oil is not present than lubrication is not achieved. There isn't any residual effect or "I need more safety under this circumstance".

Personally, I see premix as beneficial in the literal sense of the word, however I think that for most owners premix is pointless, as the engine will fail from something else first (usually cooling system failures)

Just another opinion


Not opinion is the evidence from oil sample analysis that constantly shows Mobile 1 0w40 to have the lowest wear rates inside our engines.

Warrior777

iTrader: (11)

RIWWP thanks for the great info! I'm wondering where did you find this analysis information and can you share it with me?

I personally use mobil 5w30 and premix idemitsu at 4oz per tank every time I fill up! Oh and redline daily to keep the carbon away. I don't use synthetic oil because our engines need to burn the oil as i understand it.

I may consider switching oils to 0w40 if i can read some of this analysis info!

Emery_

iTrader: (8)

He is referring to the used oil analysis on that oil.

And synthetic burns fine with no problems. The Mobil 1 0w40 is actually a synthetic.

Clark18

iTrader: (2)

I was told by a Mazda racer that synthetic is fine, but is harder on catalytic converters thus a possible issue for those with cats.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Rotaries aren't healthy on cats...

High exhaust temps, inefficient combustions, oil injected.

The difference between synthetic-oil-labed-as-synthetic and synthetic-oil-that-isn't-labeled-as-synthetic on your cat won't be noticeable.

Warrior777

iTrader: (11)

Can we see this evidence from oil sample analysis...or is it something that you checked after a oil change and have not documented RIWWP? Just wondering.

So what oil do you use in your engine RIWWP? Is it stock? Do you race the car? Sorry if this was discussed earlier, its been awhile since i read through the entire discussion.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I use Mobile 1 0w40, because it has the best wear results on oil analysis.

I don't have any hard evidence of my assertion, but considering that of the list of things that destroy cats, the Renesis is only missing "leaded gasoline".

yankeepicker

@ggjuarez, I'm also a newb to this car and premixing. since the last owner did it, I chose to continue after researching here. I use 4oz of amsoil saber pro per full tank. why? because I have an 8oz bottle that I refill and use half of per fill up
I chose the saber pro because it has a pretty solid following here and it's easy to obtain. The other reason I premix is because I have a 2004 and Mazda added two? more oil injection ports for the series 2 which makes me think that the mop wasn't doing enough on the series 1 engine, although that's just deductive speculation and nothing more.

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GGJuarez

Thanks for all the great thoughts and opinions I decided to go with Mobil Super 5w-20 and to begin premixing with Saber Pro .. Im hoping im doing good to my 8 and not adding unnecessary or damaging extras ..

New Yorker

It's easy to get obsessed over what oil to use and whether or not to premix. My advice is to not sweat it. Were I a betting man, I'd wager that, far more important than using a particular grade or premixing, is just remembering to change the oil regularly and to check oil level every other fill-up.

That's all.

Nubo

Highly inadvisable.

The piece that most needs to be clean is the insulator of the center electrode. Using a metal brush will get the crud off, but will may also scratch the insulator and leave traces of metal behind, which will make it much easier for the spark to short to ground without jumping the gap.

Use a nylon brush and/or a soft piece of wood to get out the worst of the crud without damaging the center insulator. Don't worry about it being crystal clean. Spark plugs are self-cleaning in service if the engine is in tune and you're using the correct heat range for the application.

Deposits on the ground electrode are meaningless unless they begin to bridge the air gap, or in the case of the rx8 leadin plugs, obstructing the cross-channels. But this can be easily scraped off.


Your plugs seemed ok without the cleaning. The insulators seemed even paler/cleaner than normal; pehaps from high rpms. The one plug does show possibly some "high-speed glazing", but hard to say from the pic.

Emery_

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the advice and great info.

I actually tried to be gentle when cleaning the center electrode. I had just bought a new set of plugs without looking at these, and figured I might as well clean them. But yeah as you said they still looked good, probably could have gone another year with them more or less.

They do see high rpm frequently.

FerociousP

iTrader: (1)

The fact that people block off the OMP and run straight pre-mix on RX-7s and get years of service from older engines esentially proves that pre-mix is at least AS effective as an OMP, and also benefits from the owner knowing the exact rate at which the engine recieves it.

After coming from having multiple FCs and other rotaries, pre-mixing a small amount to assist the OMP just seems smart. Especially in stock trim.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Wrong. Just ask all the professional race guys who blew up Renesis' trying that and then went back to the premix plus the factory oil metering system. RX-7 guys need to forget most of what they know when dealing with a Renesis because most of the knowledge just doesn't translate.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

That statement is true as long as you ignore the fact that the purpose of the RX-8's OMP is different from the purpose of the RX-7 OMP and ignore how the results become totally different.

You could remove the OMP in an RX-7 and get away with it by premixing. You can remove the OMP in the RX-8 to ensure engine destruction in fairly short order, regardless of how much you premix. The RX-7 didn't have problems with side seal temperatures, the RX-8 does, and the two RX-8 (series 1) injectors are pointed at the side seals specifically to cool them down.

ken-x8

Holy moly!! In the 7+ years I've been on this site, that's the first time I've seen anyone say something good about the RX-8's two injectors.

My life is now complete.

Ken

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

They definitely serve their purpose, but there is a reason Mazda added the center injector back in for the series 2

Erizo

I just did a coil change. Engine was running awesome. Smooth idle. Great Accel. Added about 2oz of Supertech 2 Cycle and now my engine has a rougher idle than before. :/

Iluvrevs

Not saying this is why but that is TC-W3 or boat oil. Per those that know here not the best choice.