nycgps

iTrader: (1)

People use it because they know that the stock OMP is not dependable.

Look at Expo's motor Apex seal wear, that should tell you how wonderful the OMP is.

What Idemitsu said is the same as Castrol the oil guy said : they're not liable for anything you do. Same old Corporate talk.

Idemitsu Racing is part of their company name in the US, to many people, "Racing" is a powerful word and might be able to get them to buy more.

If their oil is not so hard to get, I probably got a bunch of them already.

CnnmnSchnpps

iTrader: (1)

I got a case of Idemitsu a little while back. I've gone through my first quart already with no ill effects

JIN13

I did read them, and according to AEM you shouldn't pre-mix cause it can damage your WB O2 sensor.......

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

it depends on which premix ...

Jax_RX8

Only if you run to much - it can gum/carbon up the sensor and keep it from performing properly. There are no specific ingredients in normal 2-cycle that will harm the O2 sensor.

Some O2 sensors just fail for no apparent reason too, and we are always looking for a reason when the real reason is - it just broke. If we happened to be using 2-cycle at the time, we blame it on that, when sometimes it just broke.

Again, use of lubricious cleaners reduces the possibility of the O2 sensors carboning or gumming up from the oil injection and/or premix.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

+1

ppl like to blame it on things.

WRXtoRX8

jax

is the gumming of the fuel filter issue being blamed by the lucas and a 2 stroke mix? I went through 3 quarts of lucas ucl mixed with amsoil saber pro and haven't had any issues. i was mixing 1.5 oz saber to 4oz ucl = 5.5oz in about 13 gallons of gas. I was not using this premix every fillup though as I would forget to make the mix have the time. Ran out of lucas so I have been just doing 5.5oz of saber pro for the time being.

Probably start mixing saber and MMO when i get a chance to get some MMO and order some more saber packets

DOMINION

Dude you should have come to Phil place MazdaManiac (Jeff) was there and was telling me all about premixing along with all kinds of other stuff he had with him that I now want to buy

I dont know about using to much. Dont want to get into uncharted territory. Use all that and let us know in about 4 years if your car is still running like us that have been premixing from day 1.
-Gil

WRXtoRX8

Wish I could have made it but working weeknds kind of messes that up. only take weekend days off to autox

can you shot me a pm with the premix info he gave you?

Jax_RX8

We don't know for sure, but several of the ones on here with fuel pump cloggin issues were mixing Lucas UCL with 2-cycle, so I would err on the conservative side and not mix them.

mysql

I had a fuel clog too. I had used a full box of Pettit's protek, and then later about a quart of 2 stroke royal purple mixed with FP60. I can't tell what clogged it since I was switching between brands. Since then I changed the fuel filter and used only FP60 and then later FP+, but even if I had the filter looked at again I can't tell anything since there might have been deposits and residue in the fuel tank.

mysql

mmmm

MX6_2_RX8

Jax - any more news on your tests? You seem to be one of the few that recommends MMO. TIA

Jax_RX8

So here is my feedback - this is my observations with some speculation - use as you see fit.

Let me also note that I was running 8oz MMO per 12 gallon fillup. I am comparing to my old brew of 2oz FP Plus and 6oz of IRP in addition to OMP flow. I have now run 6 tanks through my 8 with the MMO only premix.

Overall, I was very pleased with using MMO as a sole premix, especially knowing that I have Idemitsu flowing through the OMP as well. Here is what I observed:

- Like I stated before, quicker starts with MMO as it just fired sooner. Using my normal brew it fired quick as well, just not a quick as with MMO.

- MMO seemed to really lean out the burn - to the point the engine went into limp mode once (no CELs) at the end of the first tank. I suspect this was due to a too lean mixture although I did not pull any codes. After I turned off and re-started it has not done it again - I suspect the ECU just needed a little time to get the A/F mixture adjusted due to the more complete combustion MMO provides.

- Idle - While my car did idle very well before, very smooth with only a slight blip (misfire) every minute of two - after running MMO for a few tanks, it idles perfectly, no blips EVER.

- While there is still soot on my exhaust tips, there does seem to be less with MMO and it seems to be a finer dust and not as black - almost a blue-dark gray hue.

- Protection - I suspect my old brew probably adds a little more lubricity, but only a little. I have no way to prove this and I am sure it will get debated a lot, but I actually do think MMO does not give up much in the lubricity department - it just accomplishes it differently.

- Carbon Generation inside the motor - It seems that my rotary is running cleaner and generating less carbon using MMO. From the exhaust tips being cleaner to the smoother idle, it just seems to be burning cleaner.

You may not know this, but MMO is used by many pilots that have to run 100LL fuel in there engines, as this kind of aviation fuel is notorious for carbon and varnish deposits - and MMO seems to keep everything cleaned up and lubed.


Conclusions:

- I think my old brew probably has better lubricity, but with more carbon generation as the price you have to pay for it. The FP Plus then has to work to keep cleaned up - so it runs a little dirtier. Less IRP in the brew would reduce this carbon, but then it might loose it's lubricity edge over the 8oz of MMO.

- I think the MMO actually made the car run better overall, and cleaner, but with possibly a little less lubricity, but more than plenty to supplement a working OMP. I think MMO's carbon "prevention" qualities is what is really causing this smooth running rather than my old brew making the excess carbon and then having to clean it up with the FP Plus.

- So which one wins - that depends on your priorities - If you want only one premix and don't want to combine a lubricious cleaner with a 2-cycle like I have said many times - MMO is your answer (even over pure 4 oz IRP premixing IHMO, which is so common here). If you want maximum lubricity with good cleaning, my old brew is it.

- Which will I stick with? I am actually quite torn as I do not think you could not go wrong with either - hhhhmmmmmm, I think I need to think about this one for a while. What do you think?


Prologue

- Would I use MMO in the oil as well? Yes, but not the way they recommend.

Marvel recommends swapping out 10-25% of your total oil with MMO a each oil change. I would not do that - I would add 8-16 oz around 500 miles before your next oil change and not add any more at the oil change. Doing this would allow you to get a good carbon and sludge cleaning and get most (but not all) of it out.

That said, I personally do not intend to use it in my oil as I feel Lube Control's LC20 is a better product for engine and oil lubricity and cleanliness.

Sorry for the long post - I'm done now (RG - your rubbing off on me)

MX6_2_RX8

Jax, thanks for the long post. I'm going to run a gallon of it through and go from there. MMO seems to be the easiest and cheapest answer.

Then there is the biodiesel option
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/marvel-mystery-oil-renesis-82898/page3/

Jax_RX8

Yes, Bio-diesel is very lubricious. It has been stated that it is one of the new ingredients of FP Plus (soy-based oil) and the main difference between it and FP 60.

This other thread also references that diesel place lubricity test that was done, and which MMO did not fair so well (as did Lucas UCL and many others) as far a increasing lubricity above straight diesel with no additives. First of all, remember that diesel is very lubricious to begin with - they don't call them oil burners for nothing. Secondly, this question was ask on Marvel's old site and they really doubted the accuracy of the test and stated MMO does add lubricity to diesel fuels (which means it adds a LOT to gasoline).

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.biz/main...icPath=6,2,1,1

BrianGT

iTrader: (1)

I just finished reading the last few pages and I think I have made up my mind as to the setup I will be using.

First, my car is an NA '04 6 port with about 65 000 kilometers on it, I got it used two years ago, it has the original engine and it seems to run well.

I plan to install a Sohn adapter next week and run Idemitsu premix through it, I also ordered a gallon of FP plus and will be adding 2 oz per tank.

Now that MM has adjusted the OMP values with the AP, I will likely be getting that in the next few weeks too.

Does this setup sound like it will work long term? I am trying to keep this engine running as long as possible.

Thanks

Brian

Jax_RX8

Sounds like a good plan - you may want to add a little IRP premix in with your FP Plus until you get the OMP flow rates increased

gundarx

Hmm but doesn't the OMP only spray oil to the corners of the seals for pre-09 engines? Premixing is probably still the way to go to get sufficient lubrication of the middle area of the seals as pointed out by RG in the other thread.

Zephyrzone

Jax- I've read this entire thread and have even posted once or twice. It's been a while though and I really don't feel like going back through 40 pages. I came to the conclusion that adding 6oz of Idemitsu Racing Premix, and nothing else, was the way to go. My OMP seems to be working well (it's an '07) as I go through a quart every 2500 miles. I want the lubricity but am also concerned about carbon build-up and killing my cat.

Bottom line- do you think 6oz if Idemitsu per a 12 gallon fill-up with a functioning OMP is an 'adequate' solution that will help aid in engine operation and life without any ill-effects? Or should I not pre-mix at all, or use MMO, etc. I came to the conclusion I did based on this thread and it seemed like the right one. I just can't recall if the Idem. has any cleansing properties. I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible without damaging anything while still helping the engine- if only moderately. Thanks...

mysql

I don't think Idemitsu is wise if you're running with a cat.

Jax_RX8

IRP will add plenty addition lubricity and does have some cleaners in it - the problem is that it does not have enough cleaners to take care of all the carbon a rotary generates from the rich fuel mixture.

That is why I recommend a lubricious cleaner (FP Plus, MMO, etc) be added to the IRP as well to clean everything up (assuming that is the route you want to go).

You could just run straight MMO as well at 8 oz/fillup as this will provide lots of additional lubricity and very good cleaning without any mixing being necessary.

Jax_RX8

It is hard to say - many here have used with cats for many, many miles with no issues. But who knows, it may cause some issues, but if it does it would be over over a very long time.

Expo1 used IRP for over 40k miles and his cat never seemed to be affected - and it is likely why his engine made it from the first 70k, in which he did not premix, until 110k when he had it rebuilt. Also note that he had a lot of carbon in there when it was disassembled as well and he probably should have used some cleaners more often as well.

At least, I do not think IRP is like some of these motorcycle and snowmobile 2-cycles that definately have a lot of Extreme Pressure ingredients that will kill you cat quickly if used regularly. I use IRP and am comfortable with it FWIW.

Jax_RX8

Maybe - or you could use the Cobb AP (or Hymee, etc) to turn up the OMP rate enough to provide enough total lube.

I think the new center OMP oil injector is required because of how little oil is provided in the first place, to get it allocated to just the right places - if you sprayed in more total oil in the first place, a third injector may not be required as the "precision" of where it is sprayed would be less of an issue.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Guys---minor point but it doesnt spray--it drops from the oil "injectors".
olddragger