BMonkey

He might be, he just doesn't know how he comes off over the internet when he feels strongly about something

I made a little trip over to car and driver.com and checked out the long term test on their RX8. Funny thing I noticed, they didn't tear down their motor and upload large photos of the wear on the bearings and seals... like Mazmart did on here. Another funny thing, the car had only 40000 miles when they retired it from the test fleet As I recall in that rebuild thread, the engine documented had over 100k on it.

Also the gain in power over time is from increased port overlap, not renesis magic.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Very True ---- AS LONG AS BUSH & DICK ARE STILL IN THE OFFICE !!!!

Thats why I said the price simply not worth it. All our hard earned cash went to those Bush, Dick, and Arabic prince's pocket. Hell one of the prince bought himself an A380 as his Private jet !!! and u know that A380 can hold like 700-800 ppl EASY.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I've been saying,

Average American consider any car *at/close/over 100K miles* are nothing but garbage.

Mazda made the right choice, the car should be able to go 100K, but what about after? Most Americans will NOT care ~ and they think its some sort of miracle that a motor can reach 100K without breakdown.

Most americans sell their cars WAY before it even reach 60K miles. Then the *2nd* owner will care even less, when the car breaks, they will never have a question of why did it even happen in the first place.

BMonkey

Hallelujah, American bashing! I totally agree about american car culture being as you describe. Even in the performance communities, reliability and engine life are not given their proper due vs. big numbers. Most of the things I've done to my car are simply to maximize the life/efficiency and minimize the hurt. I'm the type of guy that pops his hood and pulls off the engine cover every day after I come home from work so none of the oil cooks in the engine. I think if someone takes all the GOOD advice that's been given in here, buys an 09 RX8 in June or July when they come out, and applies what has been said about oiling in here along with the improvements mazda's made, they can get to 150k+.

leadguitarist05

you obviously didn't read my post... read it again... firstly, I said 3RD generation RX7's, not 1st or 2nd Gen (which were decent longevity wise, if non turbo!) secondly, I said "WITHOUT well conceived COOLING and LUBRICATION systems" you don't think an insufficient cooling system would allow unhealthy amounts of heat? so apparently you missed that part...

I've never seen a TURBO RX7 make it past 120k miles without a rebuild (not saying it's not possible, but I've never seen one), I HAVE seen a NA 1st and 2nd gen in the ballpark of 180k-200k miles (grandpa driven cars)... but I wasn't referring to them... I was referring to the 3rd gen... and the 3rd gen had more than just heat issues...

even having said that... my next car (or maybe the one I let my little brother drive to work, he's 18 and doesn't have a car yet) will be a 3rd gen RX7 and a T04 carbon bearing turbo, they are just damn sexy, and she would look good parked next to Mya (my RX8)

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Well, I believe my motor can go over 150K without any major problem.

People can choose what they want to believe, the end result is all it matters. (Still a long way to go tho)

My bad.

I think most REW have to do rebuild even before 100K miles. Heat was the biggest problem. but I think the *true* problem is that most ppl when they first got their REW baby, first thing they did was to *turn that boost 200% higher baby!* ....

then when the engine blew up, they said "Damn, Rotary freaking suck!"

CnnmnSchnpps

iTrader: (1)

Lol.. The US will have less and less impact on the global markets going forward... Think, increased demand from China and India.. Imagine what your cost at the pump will be when oil goes to $200 per barrel??

leadguitarist05

my understanding was the general consensus on REW motors was about 80k is the expected lifespan, however on your first rebuild you could upgrade your Apex seals and expect considerably more life the second time around, however, due to most people also strapping on a much larger single turbo and pushing up around 500-600hp the increase in possible apex seal life was severely diminished... I must say, anyone who could afford a 3rd gen RX7 brand new could probably afford to rebuild it in 80k, but I doubt they'd keep it that long so guys like me who'd buy one used (I work 70 hours a week just to pay the tab on my RX8) usually ended up slapping down around $1200 for a rebuild...

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

amen on that brother swoope

Newyorker , just try it - it won't hurt . I was one of the doubters originally , I tried it at 500:1 with no results . Then people started saying they were getting better gas mileage at higher concentrations (200:1) so I gave it another try . Been running it ever since so that must tell you something ......

iczer3

I just like to ask another question :
Would a thinner or thicker oil help in OMP ? Since the oil in our RX8 (disregard the
09 version) with 2 injectors won't the thinner oil get spread more evenly than
a thicker oil ? If so, won't 0w30, 0w40 oils better than 10w40 or 10w30 oils ?

Please correct me if I'm wrong ...

BR,

Felix.

savedsol

It's an old rotary saying that it's last mile is it's strongest. Then....BOOM!

If you look at any of the long term reviews 90% of the cars increase in 0-60 time.

Jax_RX8

Some on here think a thicker oil will give you a thicker oil film for the OMP injected oil, I personally do not think it makes much difference.

I also do not think that a thinner oil will "spread" any better than a thicker one just because it is thinner - where it winds up is more from the injection point/direction and the splatter effect of the combustion throwing the oil everywhere before it gets so hot it eventually burns (gas ignites quicker than oil and that is how the oil actually has a chance to lubricate before it burns off).

Also FWIW, a 0W30 oils is the exact same thickness (viscosity) as a 10W30 oil at operating temperature (100C, where they are both a 30 weight). The only difference is a 10W oil will get thicker when it cools to room temperature (40C is the spec) than a 0W oil. A 30 weight oil is usually 10-10.5 cSt at operating temperature of 100C

Cold oils are ALWAYS thicker than warm oils - the xW rating just give you and indication as to how thick it gets - a 0W oils will only get to around 45 cSt at 40C, while a 10W will get to around 65 cSt (cSt is centistrokes, or resistance to flow, the standard viscosity measurement).

Hope this helps

BMonkey

Wouldn't a higher viscosity, synthetic oil provide the most signifigant advantages in regards to bearing lubrication both cold and under load vs. 5w-20 mineral oil?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

No.

.....and the topic is 'premix'.

S

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Synthetics have stronger film strength.

but this is a premix thread ... nothing to do with oils ...

Zephyrzone

I'm not sure about that. I think premixing has quite a bit to do with oil.

But I think they mean if it doesn't go in your gas tank to supplement your fill-ups then find one of the other 113,455 threads on synthetic vs natural oil.

BMonkey

3rd time's a charm

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

hehe ... premix technically is oil ... but its not *that* oil u know ... so lets keep it at *premix*

maxrx8

Here's the update:

Used 8 oz of MMO with Shell 91 in a full tank. That fillup MPG reading was 15.9. This was after the missfires and testing the new tuneup. and really stepin on it.

I always fill up.

Went 259.1 miles filled up with 13.788 gallons of Shell 91 octane and 8 more oz of MMO. That's almost 19 MPG.

Approx 160 - were freeway miles. I probably got on it twice. Whoever says they get 23 or higher must have the luck of the irish on their side.

Was hoping to hit the 20s. Oh Well
Don't know if it's the MMO or the new parts or was their a difference.

It's running eggselent.

Peace.

Bill

Jax_RX8

^^^^ New cat will definately help.

Good first sign on the MMO use, but probably need at least 4 tanks under your belt to get a good trend. MMO will clean up carbon and varnish and increase your combustion efficiciency, which will buy most people 1-2mpg.

I do run around 22 mpg average - this with about 50% hwy and 50% mixed city driving. I also drive pretty average except for a couple of redlines per session to help the carbon blowout and the keep all the various intake valves moving. My "old brew" was getting me about 20-21 mpg, so I saw about 1-2 mpg increase by going to MMO (8 oz per tank)

Pastrulo

I ran out of MMO, and started using 8oz. little bottles of 2 stroke oil, and saw a drop on fuel mileage since then. As soon as I burn through the 2-stroke oil I'm going back to MMO. Noticeable difference. Same gas station, same grade, same type of driving. I'm going to get the big gallon can of MMO that they have at Pep Boys.

spoddyandthemazda

i don't premix, but am irish, so must be luck then as i got near 270 miles out of a 3/4 tank, i did not wanna go below the 1/4 mark in case i ran out, so reckon about 300 ish miles or possibly more out of a full tank.

i did do around 50-55mph on the motorway, but also did redline atleast once a day going onto the motorway, lots of slip road to do it...

i also do 33 miles to work and 33 miles home, which is 4 ticks on the fuel guage, and there appears to be not much difference at going 55mph and 65-70 mph.

petrol (gas) in the uk is now £1.06 a litre, but i have my mx3 to help out so drive the rx8 2-3 days a week.

would love to talk to someone who has done an lpg conversion on their 8.

i think that the 5w30 engine oil is enough and don't wanna try premixing as the engine oil is sufficient for the engine and the computer is set up to inject the engine oil properly. it also says in my manual to not use an fuel additives, as i thought about using something to help keep the rotors clean of carbon. i'll just redline instead and treat her to a tank of shell v or the bp ultimate.

SpIcEz

50-55mph ouch. Thats about 85km/h, thats what I do driving on the city highways.

I usually cruise around 75mph, which probably the cause of my bad gas/mileage !!

swiftnet

I premix using Amsol. I started using 89 octane. Everything is running well. I want to try 87 octane, just wondering if pre-mix raises octane or lowers it. I'm guessing it would raise the octane, but I really have no clue. Any gas/oil guru's out there who can clue me in?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Pre-mix would lower the octane...by an almost insignificant amount......