AJ's Shinka

Cool, thanks for the specification. I wanted to clean out my carbon but to lazy to seafoam, actually I don't have a garage anymore since moving into a condo from a house. So I want to try this route everything is going into the engine via the gas tank.

TALAN7

When I said once a month I didn't meaning religiously. I may have akipped a month, but I would definitely say I used a cleaner about 8-10 times a year, spread out over the year. Once a month wouldn't cause a problem.

TALAN7

Plus I put on about 24,000 miles on a year. That's 2000 miles a month.

Hotsauce

So there is a new oil pump in the 2006+ Rx8s? I thought there was no major changes to the engine in the newer Rx8s. If so why doesn't Mazda issue a TSB to replace the old oil pumps in teh 2003-2005 models? Or, does the new reflash take care of this problem?

Delmeister

The oil pump is not pumping against any significant pressure, in fact it is probably seeing a vacuum. You would have pressure with boosting but even then the pump is positive displacement and should be able to overcome that pressure. Oil volume flow is controlled by PCM. Where did you see that the new pumps pumped to a higher pressure, or even that the newer vehicles had different pumps installed?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

From time to Time Mazda update their parts with new, more up to date design parts.

Say I just checked my Air Box part number, original part number ends with E, now its already in *G* revision. Sometimes Mazda skip part number for more changes. If u're in programming u will know how version number works. but that also means, the Air box has been changed from E-F-G. Probably material change or some minor design change, who knows.

Same thing for pump, coolant bottle, even Rotor housing had couple of version.

so no surprise.

The MAJOR change would be the new 09. I doubt we can use some of the stuff in 09 for our cars.

Docj78

Have not read this entire thread b/c I'm at work and this site perpetuates NON-PRODUCTIVITY.

If I were to choose ONE thing to premix with each fill up, would it be Lucas or Idemitsu? I suppose that this is an opinion question unless these 2 products are 2 completely different things with different goals in mind.

Also, how much of each product should I dump in at each fillup? I drive this car daily with a once or twice a day Spirited freeway romp and /or high RPM acceleration. Thanks guys.

alz0rz

iTrader: (41)

general rule on idemitsu at least is 1/2 oz per gallon

robrecht

Isn't that too much if you have a working OMP?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

4oz for tank full is good enough for a working OMP

I do around 4-8oz, depends on my mood

I use Idemitsu

robrecht

The most popular single product seems to be MMO. Personally, I'm using 4 oz Idemitsu and 1 oz of FP+. Read just the last 2-3 pp, there's a few summary posts.

Docj78

It seems that not many people continue to talk about Lucas UCL. I read that the MMO seems to be the "easiest" additive with the best compromise of lubricity and cleaning properties. Would I be doing good to go with 4-6oz. of MMO/fill up, and run a bottle of techron cleaner every 5000 miles?

OR would it be better to run 4-6 oz. idemitsu/fillup and run the cleanser through every 5k???

BTW, Who makes MMO? Is that the brand name? Where to buy??

NEVRMIND--found it. Gonna stop and grab some tonight. Anything for the new baby!

fahrfegneugen

It is called Marvel Mystery Oil http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/

You can go either way I think. If your fuel pump gets clogged at least you know your engine is okay. However, I don't know if anyone has had a fuel pump go out yet...?

Docj78

For the first treatment tank of MMO how much should I add? What about 2nd tank on?

Also, prior to running the MMO, should I run a tank/treatment of the techron cleanser first--and then begin the MMO at every fillup?

What is the actual Techron Cleanser that I want to use?

Jax_RX8

Just add 8 oz per fillup - no need to add more on first one, but you can add a few more oz if you like. MMO will lubricate and clean up you combustion chamber and fuel system over time and keep it clean.

You can run bottle of Chevron's Techron or ProGuard (same key ingredient but Techron has more PEA), Gumout Regane, or Redline SI-1 at the same time in your first tank if you want to speed up the cleaning up process.

If you really want to clean it up quickly, run BG44k with the first dose of MMO - BG44k is the absolute strongest stuff out there, but is more expensive and harder to find (dealers only, not car parts stores or Walmart)

fahrfegneugen

Just if you clean it too much you are loosing the effects of the oil.

Docj78

I picked up a 32 oz bottle of MMO at Auto Zone for around $3.50ish. I'll stop by a store tomorrow and grab a bottle of techron, which I'll probably add along with the first dose of MMO as suggested here. I am debating running just a bottle of techron through a tank--and then beginning the MMO from then on.

Decisions, decisions...

fahrfegneugen

It is cheaper to buy Chevron gas than to just buy the Techron.

sosonic

I'm concerned about the concentrated cleaners (2,500, 3,500, 7,500) as they may break down the protective oil layer and cause wear in excessive amounts while its in the gas tank or not really clean the carbon too well in their 1 shot attempt.

I think carbon build up is a constant problem that needs a "constant" lubricious cleaner that you add every tank full.

I don't trust MMO, because it is not formulated specifically to remove carbon build up and is to just prevent it. I also think MMO may cause excessive wear when used constantly, so would rather they have test data to prove this wrong and along with their cheap "secret" ingrediants. Nor do I trust Idemitsu + MMO because you don't know the effect of mixing the 2 together nor can you be sure it will have the intended effect.

If you have a good synthetic 0W30 or 5W30 with Lucas UCL or Lube Control FP Plus than why use anything else? So far I've had good gas mileage results with Lucas UCL and I know it's a tested cleaner. Lucas also looks like oil, so I argue how could premixing with plain 2 cycle oil with no extra cleaners make you feel better than using Lucas UCL?

If you are looking for an alternate cleaning method or formula I would go with Red Line SI-1, as it provides some lubrication, while it cleans. I'm thinking Red Line SI-1 as the every 5,000 mile (more or less) lubricious cleaner and around when you change your oil and filter.

After that, I think you have the Mazda dealer with the Mazda cleaner, clean the carbon. Maybe like at every 50K or so. 2 good points about that, is you can have the Mazda dealer check how good your lubricious cleaner/carbon cleaner is working and if they "f*ck up" the cleaning job than you can point the finger at them and have them fix/replace the problem.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Lucas UCL - a super-slick lubricant that removes deposits.

What more do you need?

S

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I use Idemitsu with those Fuel system Cleaner. Cuz Im *kinda afraid* of the same thing. and when I Use those cleaner, I dump an extra few oz of Idemitsu along with it.

Jax_RX8

I agree with you that using Lucas UCL or FP Plus as your sole premix for both additional lube and cleaning are good solutions - will provide good, safe cleaning with some additional lubricity - and you can even follow the UCL up with a 5k Redline SI-1 treatment (not necessary with FP Plus as it is a much better cleaner than Lucas) if you like.

I think your comments on MMO are off though - I did not state that it does not clean up existing carbon, only that it is not as strong a cleaner as some (it is similar to Lucas UCL in that regard - great lube, good cleaner). My point of that previous comment was that one of it's unique qualities is that it prevents the formation of carbon particles, which others don't do, and is kind of neat in that if you prevent the formation of the carbon in the first place, then less "cleaning up" is required by the premix after the fact.

Also on the MMO lubricity, I have shown the ingredients several times here and shown how it lubricates and cleans, but each person has to judge for themselves. I would say, however, that it does NOT cause wear when in use like dedicated, one-tank, cleaners. It is safe and designed for every tank use to lube and clean (after all, it is called Marvel Mystery Oil, not Marvel Mystery Cleaner)

All this said, I think your reasoning on an every tank lube/cleaner is right on with my general recommendations and your product choices are a very good ones to consider.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

a short comment here..

first some have mentioned my post as expert stuff. no i say no. i have just been premixing and reading all this stuff and have a pretty good memory..

and i try to ask ?s that allow more to learn..

jax rx8, we all that premix owe several beers, or what ever his adult beverage of choice is..

now i will state this, from my reading that carbon cleaning or removal is a constant slow process...

a can of sea foam or 44 k is not going to do it in 1 fell swoope..

but the above with mmo or mix + fp1 will get your there...

just putting it out there for the layman like myself..

as to stealths comment.. did god call you? do tell, that came out of no where!!!!

beers

robrecht

So far I've added 1 oz of FP+ to 2 tanks of gas. The idea is that it is a lubricious cleaner that shouldn't hurt oil films inside the combusion chamber, which is also being protected by additional Idemitsu.

My only potential concern (perhaps unfounded) about adding a shock treatment of 16 oz of Techron is that I don't know how its solvents are affecting the oil film in the combustion chamber of a rotary. Maybe it's a complete non-issue.

With respect to Techron's recommendations, do they recommend using their shock treatment in rotary engines? (I recall that you have frequently mentioned that Idemitsu said previously that their premix was not necessary in non-raced rotaries with an OMP.)

New Yorker

I've often wondered if Techron is okay to use in a rotary, but I've never gotten a definitive answer. So I just emailed Chevron; if they answer I'll post their response. To your point, yeah, I think there's a small risk in using it, but I suspect it's a non-issue. (Also, not only do I use it infrequently, I also only use it right before an oil change. So the stuff is in there relatively briefly, and then there's new oil.)